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I am about to install the transmission and t-case into my truck and will need to figure out the crossmember for the tranny. I cant use the original one because it was 2wd and the tcase adapter I have has the tall foot on it. I was also thinking of doing a mount similar to yours for the t-case just for some extra support. Your pics help me with different ideas.

What is your third crossmember for in the far back? And what is the two holes in the center of each crossmember for?
 

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I am about to install the transmission and t-case into my truck and will need to figure out the crossmember for the tranny. I cant use the original one because it was 2wd and the tcase adapter I have has the tall foot on it. I was also thinking of doing a mount similar to yours for the t-case just for some extra support. Your pics help me with different ideas.

What is your third crossmember for in the far back? And what is the two holes in the center of each crossmember for?
Third crossmember is for the carrier bearing (2 piece driveshaft) and anti-wrap bar shackle mount.

All three crossmembers will be used to mount a full-belly skid, as well. That is what the two holes on each of them are for - mounting a front-to-back support tube between to support the belly skid.
 

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Third crossmember is for the carrier bearing (2 piece driveshaft) and anti-wrap bar shackle mount.

All three crossmembers will be used to mount a full-belly skid, as well. That is what the two holes on each of them are for - mounting a front-to-back support tube between to support the belly skid.

Gotcha, my carrier bearing is supported by a tube crossmember that goes over the driveshaft. Figured it was all there for a skid plate since its so nice and flat. Just wanted to confirm.

I don't know how mine will be. I am not clocking the t-case so I will see if it hangs below the frame rails. i am hoping it doesn't. Would love a flat belly like your.
 

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Rethreading seems like a good way to get aluminum shavings into the case. I'd rather not do that, but thanks for the information.

I asked NWF if they'd restrict flow to the ecobox with an orifice and they said that they don't restrict anything on theirs. Leaving the front input seal off the ecobox means the same amount of fluid still flows back into the transmission anyway since the tailhousing has a drainback, anyway.

I'll probably go the compression fitting route. Thanks for the ideas fellas!
Shavings would just fall into the pan, and they are too big to get past the filter. But I understand your concern.

Good to know about the fluid flow through the Ecobox. I'm doing the same setup in the truggy project.
 

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Gotcha, my carrier bearing is supported by a tube crossmember that goes over the driveshaft. Figured it was all there for a skid plate since its so nice and flat. Just wanted to confirm.

I don't know how mine will be. I am not clocking the t-case so I will see if it hangs below the frame rails. i am hoping it doesn't. Would love a flat belly like your.
The factory t-case hangs down below the frame rails about 3/4" of an inch.
 

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A little late in the game but you can do like I did with my fuel lines, buy a roll of hard line and flare it for an. Buy the ferrules and nuts, flare it and done. If not high pressure you can use aluminum line, bends and flare easily.
 

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Good point, I never really thought of using aluminum line since it's low pressure. Easy to field repair too.

I think for ease, I'll go compression for now - but down the road I may redo all the lines the way you suggested. Thanks!
 

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But what's your fav La Croix flavor?



:flipoff2:
 

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Gotcha, my carrier bearing is supported by a tube crossmember that goes over the driveshaft. Figured it was all there for a skid plate since its so nice and flat. Just wanted to confirm.

I don't know how mine will be. I am not clocking the t-case so I will see if it hangs below the frame rails. i am hoping it doesn't. Would love a flat belly like your.
But what's your fav La Croix flavor?

:flipoff2:
You're lookin at it :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

got any pics of your cross member mount?
Which one? Do you mean the brackets that are welded to the frame for the rear two crossmembers?


UPDATE / TEASER: Bed goes on tonight. Thank you all for being so patient :grinpimp:

I'll post some quick pictures tomorrow and then work on a full update next week. Going wheeling on Sunday and still have a bunch of stuff to do to get it wheeling-ready.
 

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You didn't miss much.

Long story short, when I tried to clearance my 1350 double cardan to ensure it wouldn't bind, I cracked the centering ball stud. I tried to do a garage fix (fill the stud with weld then drill it back out) to hopefully allow me to run at least a few trails this weekend... but messing around doing font digs in the gravel was enough to let the stud break loose.

So, I didn't get to do any wheeling in my truck this weekend.

Another major issue was that when I mated the transfer cases to the transmission, I forgot to clean the surfaces (at least I hope that's the cause). The seal between the transmission and transfer case was weeping some fluid when driving it around town Saturday night, but I figured I'd simply top it off when I arrived. Once things heated up, however, the leak got way worse. Over the course of the trip I had to add about a gallon and a half of ATF to the system to keep it in safe operating range.

Other than that though it runs great on the highway. The 205 doesn't leak and runs around 160-170F according to my cheap-o infrared gun and the EcoBox runs the same temperature as the transmission since they share fluid. The compression fittings were bone-dry the whole trip too, which is a win.


Here's a good comparison before and after:




And a side shot comparison. The maroon truck (Grohe is his username) is basically set like mine was before the wheelbase-ectomy.


And finally a proper side-shot:
 

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Discussion Starter #1,054 (Edited)
So... the main takeaway from this weekend is:
1. I need to properly seal the interface between the trans and transfer case.
2. Figure out the front driveshaft situation.

Item 1 is easy.

Item 2 I've got the opportunity to make some changes.

Easiest route is to get the double cardan joint repaired by cutting out and replacing the centering ball stud portion with a fresh piece (having a driveline shop do it so it can be re-balanced).

I could potentially go to a single 1410 joint. This would allow me enough angle to not bind and also simplify the joint. THe downside is that it would definitely vibrate in 4wd at any speed over 10-15mph I'm guessing. I'm curious if this would cause significant vibes with the front hub(s) engaged on the street, though?

Third option is too pricey for me at this point... 1410 BAMF CV from Tom Woods. But it is an option I suppose.

I'll post more build pics later on this week, but I want to figure out the driveshaft situation pretty quick so I can get another actual shakedown run in before my fiancee and I head to Moab at the end of June.

I have to guess that I did not make the Ultimate Adventure this year, by this point...
 

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Digging that bed! Looks awesome!
Thanks man! I'm also very happy with how it turned out and I didn't even need to do any bodywork to the outer skins :D
 

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I could potentially go to a single 1410 joint...
My personal experience, for the little it might be worth...

Single 1480 at the transfer case (cannibalized D60 axle shafts). Angles are no problem...could go 40 degrees, but it's closer to about the 20-25 degree range at ride height. Single 1350 at the front axle, probably 5 degrees or less. At speed, on hard surfaces, with transfer case in 2WD and hubs locked....it's miserable. A little less so on dirt, but still no picnic. Did the 1480 because it was cheap (already had the donor shafts), but when weighed against my own expectations....I can't honestly call it a success. I see a CV at the transfer case in my future, just not sure what shape that's going to take just yet.

Awesome job on the "wheelbase-ectomy" though. Looks killer!
 

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Digging that bed! Looks awesome!
X3!!! I’ve thought for a while it would be cool to build one of these trucks, and I would chop the bed exactly like you did. It looks factory. Well done!

As far as the front shaft, I’d do whatever the current angles allow. If your pinion is pointing at the tcase output, stick with the current setup and repair it. If it’s not, adjust it so it’s correct for the double cardan, or make them match and run a single joint at each end. If the angles are correct, it shouldn’t vibrate with either setup (in theory (as I’m sure you know)). Basically, whatever is the least amount of work.
 

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Looking good!

Are you going to move the axle forward a little or open up the wheel well? Looks a little snug on the backside.
 

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My personal experience, for the little it might be worth...

Single 1480 at the transfer case (cannibalized D60 axle shafts). Angles are no problem...could go 40 degrees, but it's closer to about the 20-25 degree range at ride height. Single 1350 at the front axle, probably 5 degrees or less. At speed, on hard surfaces, with transfer case in 2WD and hubs locked....it's miserable. A little less so on dirt, but still no picnic. Did the 1480 because it was cheap (already had the donor shafts), but when weighed against my own expectations....I can't honestly call it a success. I see a CV at the transfer case in my future, just not sure what shape that's going to take just yet.

Awesome job on the "wheelbase-ectomy" though. Looks killer!
Good to know. My static angle is much less extreme at ~13-14 degrees at the t-case. That said, I know vibrations are still a concern under any torque.

The money question: Does it vibrate/pulsate when you have the t-case in 2wd and hubs engaged? Is it balanced?

X3!!! I’ve thought for a while it would be cool to build one of these trucks, and I would chop the bed exactly like you did. It looks factory. Well done!

As far as the front shaft, I’d do whatever the current angles allow. If your pinion is pointing at the tcase output, stick with the current setup and repair it. If it’s not, adjust it so it’s correct for the double cardan, or make them match and run a single joint at each end. If the angles are correct, it shouldn’t vibrate with either setup (in theory (as I’m sure you know)). Basically, whatever is the least amount of work.
A lot easier said than done. The driver's side leaf spring perch is cast into the diff housing. So to adjust pinion angle, you need shims on that side (or both) and then need to cut-and-turn the inner-c's.

The pinion is only a few degrees away from pointing at the t-case. It's not worth the work to make that change. I think a traction bar may be in my future up-front because I think everything is fine until I apply a lot of torque and the axle wraps the pinion down and away from the t-case.

Looking good!

Are you going to move the axle forward a little or open up the wheel well? Looks a little snug on the backside.
Already did trim the wheel well hastily to make the wheeling trip. Snug was an understatement as it was rubbing going around turns on the street haha. Zoom in (enhance, enhance, enhance) the side shot of the maroon truck and mine at the gas station and you'll see the trim job I did.

Ultimately I plan to get another set of rear fender flares and fully extend the wheel well (all the way from the top) back 3-4" so it keeps the factory curves and shape, only extended. Then I'll splice the two flares together at the top somewhere and all will be well.

The silver lining to doing it this way is that if I ever upgrade to 42s, I'll push the axle forward using the spring perch holes (after shortening the rear driveshaft again) and they'll fit. :grinpimp:
 
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