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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,501
Badlands is usually a good time, it just gets old doing the same stuff over and over. Which is why it's so exciting when I can make it up new stuff. I think going on more cross-country trips brought the magic back to Badlands because it's not the only place I wheel now.
 

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Looking back at your posts from #1082, what is holding your fuel tank from bouncing up?

And what tank is that? Sorry if I missed it - half of your pictures don't load for me. They're just black circles with a "do not enter" type of white dash.
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,503
The tank has a lip that is spot welded to hold the two halves together. I added some flat stock to the front and rear where the tank mounts for it to press against. That's how the factory K5/Burb tank was mounted. (It's a 31 gallon Square Body Suburban tank modified for the truck's fuel pump unit).
 

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Discussion Starter #1,505
Need to get yourself a social media account of some sort :p
 

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The tank has a lip that is spot welded to hold the two halves together. I added some flat stock to the front and rear where the tank mounts for it to press against. That's how the factory K5/Burb tank was mounted. (It's a 31 gallon Square Body Suburban tank modified for the truck's fuel pump unit).
By chance, do you have any photos of the modifications you had to make to accept the truck's fuel pump unit?

I'm kind of in a similar situation looking at the late 90's Suburban fuel tank (42gal) to go in the spare tire location of an '03 2500LD frame. Fits beautifully with my own crossmembers, but what I don't want to do is cobble together the fuel pump unit. In a perfect world i'd put the '03 6.0 pump unit into the 90's Suburban tank, but I want to keep all electronics working and gauge happy, as well as not have to epoxy the pump unit in because a locking ring or O-ring didn't work out as expected.
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,507


Basically cut a hole big enough and then make this mounting plate for it. The fuel pump will seal against this surface and the top clamp w/ 6 holes will bolt it down using the studs.

Like this:


Let me know if the pictures work for you. I did have to modify the slides and float on the fuel pump to make it fit, but you should be able to figure that out pretty easily ;)
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,508 (Edited)
Been hacking away at smaller projects lately, and probably will continue to do so as we get more and more locked down for quarantine.

New shocks ordered for all 4 corners, because the 10+ year old 5150s were starting to feel pretty wallowy. Only got the fronts installed because I want to redo my rear mounts a bit to keep them from hanging down so low below the axle centerline. Unbelievable how tight they made the truck handle, even just on the front.


Even though I did gaskets about two years ago, I had a leak on the driver's manifold. Turns out there was some rust keeping it from sealing properly so I wire wheeled the manifold sealing surface and now the exhaust leak is finally gone. Good news is that all 6 bolts came out no problem.


Gave a tug at one of the rear flares and decided it was time to FINALLY redo the wheel well openings when a bunch of rust fell out. Even worse once I pulled the flare off. Good news is that I think cutting the existing rust out a few years ago paid off, they're not much worse than they were.


Cut the opening bigger, trimmed the inner fender/wheel well, and added some strength back.




And finally started chopping two sets of flares together for a super wide opening. Looks decent, but have to deal with the swoopy shape so the inner wheel well doesn't need to get cut. I'm calling it a nod to the 67-72 Chevys.
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,509
IDK if the pictures in the last post are fixed... but either way.

New front shocks!


Built some extenders to get the shocks away from the crossmember... you can see that they're quite close at ride height and I'm pretty sure they touched when flexed.


Who needs a plasma table?






I also took the opportunity to fix the factory-style shock mounts which hung down below the axle centerline and moved them up, using shorter shocks (12" instead of the old 14") to still achieve the same uptravel... slightly better actually.




And the money shot! Look, completely smooth axle tubes!
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,510
I also finished up the flares. Not my best work, but I had to redo and scrape off the old epoxy when it didn't hold. Ended up using 3M 04247, which is strong as hell, but only has a 30 second working time.






The wheel is still not centered in the wheel well. Since the inner fender is still there, I could only open it up at the weird downward angle. But hey... I think it's better than the 2/3 of a flare I was rocking before. :laughing:


 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,511
I also ordered some goodies for the truck to keep me busy during the coronavirus shutdowns.

  • 34" 2-Row All-Aluminum Radiator (to replace current radiator w/ pinhole steam leak)
  • Ox Locker w/ Air Actuation (20oz CO2 Cannister for now)
  • 5.13 Gears Front/Rear + Install Kits (to replace my undergeared 4.56s)
  • PSC 1.75" Diameter Ram (to replace current damaged 1.5" ram)
  • Flat Belly Skids and Hardware for Mounting
I'll start with the radiator since it's literally bolt-in.

The next three are all related (since the hydro ram mounts to the diff cover), so I'll pull the axles to regear them and clean them up. I'll also do the 13b shave on my rear axle while I'm under there to gain even more clearance.

The belly skids need a fair bit of fabrication and LOTS of drilling to install the 58 PEM/weld nuts in the frame and crossmembers.

Pretty stoked on all of these upgrades. Taking my time on all of them since... well, since I'll have time :laughing:
 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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4,271 Posts
Discussion Starter #1,514

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,516 (Edited)
Now, onto more pirate-worthy updates.

Pulled the axles to get started on the next round of mods.


Which, as a reminder, are:
  • 34" 2-Row All-Aluminum Radiator (to replace current radiator w/ pinhole steam leak) - [Done]
  • Ox Locker w/ Air Actuation (20oz CO2 Cannister for now)
  • 5.13 Gears Front/Rear + Install Kits (to replace my undergeared 4.56s)
  • PSC 1.75" Diameter Ram (to replace current damaged 1.5" ram)
  • Flat Belly Skids and Hardware for Mounting
Radiator swapped (new vs. old):


Normally, I'd regear the 14b under the truck since they're so easy, but I also wanted to shave it some more (13b) which would suck a lot under the truck, so I pulled it, too.



I didn't start on the rear except for draining the fluid and pulling the shafts, but I got the front completely disassembled. Turns out, it's a good thing I'm regearing...


I noticed a little bit of endplay on the pinion last year and was hoping it would hold on until I did the front locker swap, so I'm glad I didn't delay any more.

The 14b carrier also spun a bearing... but I had no idea anything was wrong on that... Magnet didn't even have much metal on it.





 

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E-Locker or Bust!
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Discussion Starter #1,520
No pictures or videos tonight, but I did get the 14b torn down and noticed a carrier bearing spun on the carrier so I'll be swinging by the junkyard to see if I can snag an open carrier.

In my bummed-ness, I decided to weld the Dana 60 tubes to the pumpkin like I did on the 14b years ago. Preheated, welded, peened, post heated, and now it's wrapped in welding blankets. No pics, was too smoky in the garage for me to hang around much longer.
 
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