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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Haven't done an update in awhile, mostly because i havent really been working on it. I got busy and then i ran into issues with layout of the front suspension and steering, which really sapped my motivation. I think ive got it figured out now and it seems like its gonna work as i had originally planned.

A few random pics to start. Got my DD 35s mounted and my 37s for wheelin. I put a couple wraps of gorilla tape on both sets of rims. Completed the rear t case mount and fabbed the frame side radius arm mounts.











 

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Discussion Starter #42
As you can see a lot of things on the front suspension are just scrap pieces for mockup so i can see if everything is gonna work before i commit to it. I just threw it together and havent a got chance to check clearances thoroughly yet. I only did one upper radius arm mount for now. The drivers side has a very narrow spot between the frame and the wide oil pan with my big poly bushing in there. First impression says its gonna work but we shall see.















 

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I've been meaning to ask, what Gauge sheet did you use to build your battery box, 16 Ga. ( 1/16" or .063" ) ? I'm curious about the weight, but it would probably be difficult to make it lighter, yet still strong enough. I was toying with the idea of riveting and bonding Aluminum sheet to a box tube frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yeah its 16G iirc. I considered aluminum too but it would really complicate things especially since i dont have an aluminum welding setup. I just did some math and its about 55lbs worth of sheetmetal and angle iron. Pretty hefty, but oh well, worth it imo
 

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I like the build a lot so far. I would urge you to make it a true 3 link though. You already have the long link up top just have to build a mount to the frame. It will hop and unload up hill a lot less and make your joints last a lot longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Yeah after cutting the inner fender for the steering box i dont really have a place for a battery (or 2) up front. The plan is to run 2 air compressors and a water pump in there too. I wouldnt really have a decent dry place to put all that stuff if i didnt build this box. I use my truck like a truck so i dont want it in the bed of my truck either. This keeps the weight nice and low too.

I strongly considered going 3 link but i felt a radius arm is gonna work better for 90% of what i use the truck for. Daily driving and camping. I like the idea of having the built in sway bar effect.
If i did do 3 link i probably would have bought the 4WU kit and a sway bar (if i could fit it) and thats a fair bit more cost. I really wanted to use all rubber/poly joints to minimize noise and that kit is set up to use heims in a few places. Im using poly ballistic joints on the axles and metalcloak on the frame side radius/panhard.
From what ive read, a well setup radius performs not too bad for climbing, miles ahead of a poorly setup one.

I did a bit more suspension cycling and i think im gonna have to go with a different oil pan to clear my 2 5/8 wide poly bushing. The U weld pan ive seen for sale here on pirate will clear and give me a bit more tierod/panhard clearance. Money i didnt really wanna spend but i should be able to gain a bit of uptravel at the same time.







Thats a LX470 oil pan btw. I originally had a SC400 pan
 

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You will only get the sway bar affect is if you run dual radius arms because they fight each as the chassis leans. Only running one will flex much the same as a 3 link. It’s why people with radius arms remove an upper or have one “wristed” for wheeling. I just think with the minimal separation at the frame side and because your axle side lowers are above the axle center line, the joints are going to see a lot of force from torque on the axle. That being said if you’re not wheeling hard I’m sure you’re fine.
 

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For the past 7 years I've been running a one radius arm setup almost identical to what you are doing (enduro joints at frame side, ballistic poly bushing at axle). Only difference is my lower link axle brackets are flush with the bottom of the axle tube (opposite of what you have). Not sure what axle rotational forces will do with the lowers above centerline. The only joint that has given me trouble is the one upper poly bushing. After rebuilding it several times, I switched only the upper to a heim joint and its been good ever since. Mine handles decent with only a rear swaybar.

At first I tried running all heims and ran into an issue with the lower arm rotating the joints and changing the caster anytime I braked or accelerated. The bushings eliminate the rolling issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
You will only get the sway bar affect is if you run dual radius arms because they fight each as the chassis leans. Only running one will flex much the same as a 3 link. It’s why people with radius arms remove an upper or have one “wristed” for wheeling. I just think with the minimal separation at the frame side and because your axle side lowers are above the axle center line, the joints are going to see a lot of force from torque on the axle. That being said if you’re not wheeling hard I’m sure you’re fine.
I guess you never read from the start. I am going to be running two uppers. This was just for mock up. Once i have the placement nailed down i will just mirror it for the other side.

If it flexes okay i will be running on both radius arms the entire time but if im not happy with the flex i plan to unpin the drivers side radius arm but that will just be for the occasional time i crawl. That should make bushings last, but time will tell, thanks for the heads up wes761
 

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I guess you never read from the start. I am going to be running two uppers. This was just for mock up. Once i have the placement nailed down i will just mirror it for the other side.

If it flexes okay i will be running on both radius arms the entire time but if im not happy with the flex i plan to unpin the drivers side radius arm but that will just be for the occasional time i crawl. That should make bushings last, but time will tell, thanks for the heads up wes761
I must have missed that. Good shit, I dig the build, really like the storage under the bed. Always wanted to do something like that with mine
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
The front suspension is all figured out now, minus the bumpstops and shock mounts.

Its relief to have it finally cycling cleanly. Its been a ton of making small changes and adjustments. I ended up doing a 10° cut and turn to get my pinion pointed where it needs to be and that changed the lower axle mount location enough that i had to put a slight bend in the radius arms to clear the frame at full bump.
The end result is 24 1/4” frame height on 37s with 5” of double bump up travel. The panhard and draglink are perfectly parallel and the panhard is about 2” shorter than the draglink
I used a yj/tj pitman arm and it ended up being just long enough to give me full steering, which was a relief because a longer pitman arm would have created all kinds of problems.
Once i knew the front suspension was gonna work, i jumped to the rear again for the sake of some change and I was curious how it was gonna work out now that ride height was determined.



















 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
At ride height the truck is gonna look higher than i had pictured but it just needs that much room to clear the 37s at full stuff. Might look a little goofy with the 35s in the big wheel wells but oh well. It barely clears the inner fenders, im gonna have to cut them where the battery would normally go but i already figured that would be the case.





In the rear I realized the current air bag set up was gonna limit my up travel somewhat and i kind of hated how i was gonna have to build the U bolt plates anyways, so i decided to inboard the bags and mount them off the crossmember instead. It will lose a bit of stability being inboarded but nbd.

I decided to take the advice of NorCalPR and sleeve the axle. Im gonna sleeve the whole length of the axle tube as far as possible and move the truss to the top of the diff instead. Im able to cut up and repurpose the back truss i had already made.
I didnt like how the back truss hung below the axle tube once you rotate the pinion up to point at the center bearing and it created complications with the U bolts.





 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Ive got the rear axle gussets all ready to go. Just waiting on a buddy to machine me some pucks for the alignment bar before i glue it all together. The upper truss will get trimmed down where it meets the spring perch



 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Im having second thoughts on my rear disc setup. I might be better off asking in the truck/4runner section since it sees a lot more action but i will try here first.
I was planning to use mustang cobra calipers with built in ebrake and 4th gen 4runner slip on rotors. Im aware of the FROR drotor kit but there was no way i was gonna cough up more dough on this axle setup for that.
I did some research and realized the cobra calipers would work and still give me an ebrake. The pistons are only 38mm though, albeit larger than the supra calipers when guys first started doing disc conversions.
38mm just seems very out of balance compared to the front brake set up though. For comparison 4th gen 4runners use 45mm pistons and 80 cruisers use 48mm rear pistons. Ive now realized it possible to use the stock 4runner backing plates by making an adaptor. I would still need to fab the cobra calipers mounts anyways, although it would be less work.
I just got the cobra calipers from rock auto although i can ship them back at a loss. The 4runner brakes are gonna cost a fair bit more and some machining required (can probably get machining done for free from a buddy) but having adequate brakes is obviously the most important.
So whats the consensus, will the 38mm pistons be enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Rear axle is all welded together! and frame side airbag mounts done. Not certain on rear axle placement yet, i may move it back 1”ish, so the axle side mounts will have to wait.



















 

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Discussion Starter #59
Picked up a portaband saw on craiglist and built a nice little stand for it. So much nicer than using abrasives for all my cuts.





Hybrid Jeep/Toyota shifter. I couldnt find a yota shifter that worked on the AX15 tranny so this was the solution



 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
I had to bash the floor up so i could get clearance for the flat belly, but it interfered with the seat mount so i had to redo. I clearanced the body a long time ago but recently fixed the mounts. I managed to keep them at stock height










 
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