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W6FTW
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Nice!

Lookup a newer Malibu (2006ish), or a Pontiac g6, or a Saturn aura. I used the rear calipers with solid axle rotors on my last rig. It had plenty of stopping power compared to using tundra fronts. Also easy to make the brackets if you have access to machining. I think the dimensions and drawings are on my build on TTORA

Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
I looked up the G6 calipers at some point and i just checked again. They have the same size pistons as the mustang callipers. I will stick with the calipers i already have, but good to know they should work well. Thanks for heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Some recent pics...










I put the box back on so i could check clearance for shocks and get water tank mounted.

I was planning to weld up a steel cradle for the water tank but then i thought of getting it all bent up instead. Much better way to go. I got it bent out of 3/16” aluminum. I bought a bare tank and got the fittings put in where i needed them. Tank is gonna bolt to underside of the box opposite of the fuel tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
I ended up having to notch the frame to clear the shocks which was a piss off. I figured offsetting the shock towards the front enough i could clear 2” shocks but not the case. The frame will be getting fish plates top and bottom so hopefully that recovers a lot of the strength. The fact that the area was C channel before and is now boxed makes me much more comfortable with the notch. The axle side mount will be much lower than i wanted but its necessary to clear the shocks and the mount will be pretty close to the wheel anyways. It will look something like you see on the rear axle of a jeep JK Those shocks are just for mock up but the ones im using will be same dimensions. 14” fox 2.0







 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Got the driveshafts all done. Buddy did the machining and i welded them up using my spare t case to true them up.






Got the 2nd crossmember done. Ended up having to notch it to clear the trans and front d shaft at full droop. I was planning to add bracing and weld the two crossmember together but decided not to since installation and removal would be a major pain with the radius arms and other issues. I wanted to keep them low profile to clear exhaust, im hoping they hold up now. They are just 1 1/2” square, 1/4” wall. Being flat with the frame and the radius arms being lower than them i cant see them taking much abuse. Time will tell. There will be a 1/2 plastic skid joining the two






 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Yeah i was thinking of doing the plating as well.

Im using GM bump stops in normal 2” bump cans that i built so i can use hydro bumps in future if i wanted. Im using a 1/2” bolt as an actual hard stop inside the bump. I ended up having to french them into frame to clear the tire at full articulation.







Rear shock mounts are tacked in place. Im waiting on the shocks to show up before I burn the mounts in for good. Shock mounts couldnt get any closer to the wheel which is good because they stick below the axle a fair bit, shouldnt be much issue hitting them









 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Put the box on so i could mount the air tank and water tank. Its a tight fit but it works. Gonna be interesting trying to build a wrap bar to fit in there but i think its still possible.













Im planning to cut up the box for a high clearance bumper and i expect the box to lose a lot of lateral strength so built some bed stiffeners









Rear axle limit strap mounts done







 

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love the build, whos headers are you using on the UZ?

I am gathering to swap a 3UZ / R150-AX15 hybrid into my YJ here shortly and it would be nice to ditch the factory manifolds.

keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
Thanks a lot, appreciate it. I should probably do an update soon. I certainly haven't abandoned this thread but with the forum seeming even more dead than when i started, its hard to find motivation to post anything. I do have IG account too that i post to more often for those that care to follow 4.tacohh

In hindsight i wish i went with 3UZ and will most likely upgrade in the future. For now i just want to get this thing on the road and the 1UZ is a lil simpler.
The headers are Manzo and they are ridiculously cheap but quality is not bad considering. Im planning to cut off the factory 3 bolt collector flange and go with a V band clamp.
I believe these ones are the same model...
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
The rear caliper flex line is just a stock 80 front line and it works perfectly which is super convenient.

Got the shocks a bit ago, replaced the com bearings for poly bushings, hopefully they hold up and i know they will be quiet.

Wasnt the plan but I ended up frenching the front bumps in to the frame to clear the coilovers and eliminated the bump pads i made which looks cleaner now too.
Just gonna post some recent pics and let them do the talking for the most part















 

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Thanks a lot, appreciate it. I should probably do an update soon. I certainly haven't abandoned this thread but with the forum seeming even more dead than when i started, its hard to find motivation to post anything. I do have IG account too that i post to more often for those that care to follow 4.tacohh

In hindsight i wish i went with 3UZ and will most likely upgrade in the future. For now i just want to get this thing on the road and the 1UZ is a lil simpler.
The headers are Manzo and they are ridiculously cheap but quality is not bad considering. Im planning to cut off the factory 3 bolt collector flange and go with a V band clamp.
I believe these ones are the same model...
thats awesome thanks for sharing! thats a very tempting price.

if you decide to go 3uz in the future there's good info out there and I am sifting through my own wiring harness as we speak. I hope to have this motor running on the engine stand soon before I tear the rig apart.
 
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