Pirate 4x4 banner

61 - 67 of 67 Posts

·
W6FTW
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Nice!

Lookup a newer Malibu (2006ish), or a Pontiac g6, or a Saturn aura. I used the rear calipers with solid axle rotors on my last rig. It had plenty of stopping power compared to using tundra fronts. Also easy to make the brackets if you have access to machining. I think the dimensions and drawings are on my build on TTORA

Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
I looked up the G6 calipers at some point and i just checked again. They have the same size pistons as the mustang callipers. I will stick with the calipers i already have, but good to know they should work well. Thanks for heads up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Some recent pics...










I put the box back on so i could check clearance for shocks and get water tank mounted.

I was planning to weld up a steel cradle for the water tank but then i thought of getting it all bent up instead. Much better way to go. I got it bent out of 3/16” aluminum. I bought a bare tank and got the fittings put in where i needed them. Tank is gonna bolt to underside of the box opposite of the fuel tank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
I ended up having to notch the frame to clear the shocks which was a piss off. I figured offsetting the shock towards the front enough i could clear 2” shocks but not the case. The frame will be getting fish plates top and bottom so hopefully that recovers a lot of the strength. The fact that the area was C channel before and is now boxed makes me much more comfortable with the notch. The axle side mount will be much lower than i wanted but its necessary to clear the shocks and the mount will be pretty close to the wheel anyways. It will look something like you see on the rear axle of a jeep JK Those shocks are just for mock up but the ones im using will be same dimensions. 14” fox 2.0







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Got the driveshafts all done. Buddy did the machining and i welded them up using my spare t case to true them up.






Got the 2nd crossmember done. Ended up having to notch it to clear the trans and front d shaft at full droop. I was planning to add bracing and weld the two crossmember together but decided not to since installation and removal would be a major pain with the radius arms and other issues. I wanted to keep them low profile to clear exhaust, im hoping they hold up now. They are just 1 1/2” square, 1/4” wall. Being flat with the frame and the radius arms being lower than them i cant see them taking much abuse. Time will tell. There will be a 1/2 plastic skid joining the two






 

·
W6FTW
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
I would add some plating over your weld area to spread out the load. That would help a lot with the strength and cracking down the road.


Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Yeah i was thinking of doing the plating as well.

Im using GM bump stops in normal 2” bump cans that i built so i can use hydro bumps in future if i wanted. Im using a 1/2” bolt as an actual hard stop inside the bump. I ended up having to french them into frame to clear the tire at full articulation.







Rear shock mounts are tacked in place. Im waiting on the shocks to show up before I burn the mounts in for good. Shock mounts couldnt get any closer to the wheel which is good because they stick below the axle a fair bit, shouldnt be much issue hitting them









 
61 - 67 of 67 Posts
Top