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Discussion Starter #1
96 3500 p pump 24V lots of mods, injectors, delivery valves, timing, pump mods, 4k gov springs, hx40 60mm turbo, Polydyne equal length stainless header, exhaust brake, 6" exhaust, 5 speed 6x6, (disc rear swap on to-do list), 245/75/19.5 Guard Dog MT's on steel GM P30 wheels with machined centers. Air bags, leveling spacers, lots more... This thing needs its own build thread somewhere.

1989 SunLite Hideaway 9.5' slide in camper, with wet bath and everything ya need. Needs new roof and other refurb work.

34' 21k tri axle tag ( needs refurb'd, just bought it)

'88 MJ Comanche 4" lift 33x10.50 TSL's (not the coursers in pic) 4.0 5 speed locked disc rear 3.73's, more building later, bought like this... Not content with most of it lol

Buddy's got an 89 MJ that will be identical after we do a 4wd swap to it, it will be filling the other spot on the trailer.







 

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Discussion Starter #3
And what? Got a Mj to build, trailer and camper to rebuild and put it all together so this is the build/show off yer junk thread for it all lol
 

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Well when I get time off work enough to fuck with it there will be building and tech stuff going on. Sorry I'm not independently wealthy and do it all today and tomorrow. Just getting a start on the thread sorry if ya hate...
 

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good start. keep up the thread. and post of the pics when you get both 'manches loaded :smokin:
 

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Thanks Johnny for being positive and not being a douche... Maybe this is not in the right forum, couldn't find what appeared to be a better one for this (Tapatalk doesn't always seem to display all sub forums for me). Apologies if I'm wrong.... Anyway when trying to decide whether or not to purchase the trailer and attempt this combination, I did lots and lots of searching and only found two guys on here running this same setup, and almost nothing else anywhere on the Internet of this setup. So I'm hoping to put out some of my experiences as I develop them, so maybe one day someone can find more info on doing this. I know its nothing ridiculous but its nice to know before you purchase large items whether or not its crazy or reasonable to do what you have in mind. I spent a lot of time mulling over a tag trailer that big, whether it would clear the camper, whether the truck would handle like a pos with that much weight on the ass, etc. took seeing this pic to make me feel Ok with it, since he is running stock wheels and (10 ply?) tires without air bags and similar camper weight..... And looks like the Dodge is just fine with it!
 

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No body gets an easy start here :flipoff2:

That is actually pretty cool, I have wondered if I could do that with my SRW 97 F350 but with a samurai on the front and a 4runner on 35s on the back.
 

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Hey I have 6+ years of lurking experience here don't that count? LOL

Finally drug the big bitch home today. It pulls great, and follows the truck/maneuvers a LOT better than I thought it would, and that is comparing it to a 33' travel trailer I used to have. I ran across the scales on the way home, stopped with just the truck on scales (including tongue weight) 8800#. The truck and trailer is 13,600#. 30# of air in the bags, truck does not have overload springs. I'm guessing around 500# tongue weight. So the trailer is over 5k, however I'd bet that every bit of 1k is unsprung weight. My 22' 7k tilt deck car hauler weighed 11,580 with the truck earlier this morning (its heavy for a 7k but toolbox, battery, chains, winch, and its basically got two frames). Also the big trailer's deck measures 30' with the dovetail.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For anyone interested I just weighed the truck by itself. Add 220# for me (I was in it when weighed with both trailers). Guess the big trailer has 800# tongue weight empty. Ouch... Receiver hitch has 1,000 lb tongue weight rating. May have to talk my buddy into trading me his class V that he never uses lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I messed with the trailer some today, checking it out and getting ideas.... The frame rails are 1/4" 2x8" box tube, cross members about 24" on center, they are 2x6 box tube. Pulled my Comanche on it with no support under the dove tail. Hard to tell whether it was springing the frame or lifting the tail of my dodge more but it seemed like a little of both, the dove moved downward probably 6". Pulled the mj all the way forward (bumper cleared the winch on trailer) the dodge didn't squat that much surprisingly. I had planned on some sort of swing down or scissor jacks under the dove for loading, however the rear of the second Mj will sit on the dove so it needs to be strong. The leaf spring mounts look a little cheesy, an I broke through a deck board also, so I have come up with some ideas let me know please what you think!

Remove axles and springs and weld up a piece of 1/4" wall 2x3" or 2x4" box tube under the frame from in front of front most spring hanger, all the way back to the dove tail. This would stiffen the rear half which is where strength seems marginal. Also would give the same ride height it has now with the flimsy dropped hangers. I would cut out the bottom of the box tube to mount the leaf spring eyelets and stabilizers into the box.
Also I don't need a full deck, was thinking going to open center style and use 1/4" wall 2" channel beams, 2 per side length ways to create the channel for runner boards to go into, welded to all the cross members this would also strengthen it up lengthwise a lot I feel. Trouble would be finding sticks of channel that long might be a problem. She's 27' on flat and 3' dove. I guess if I have to splice channel together to get the length, I could splice it as close to front as possible and plate the outside of the joint for strength.

I've got slide in ramps figured out.

Any input on the strengthening mods? I would almost consider making the rearmost axle a raisable tag of sorts just to save the wear and tear and tire scuffing when you don't need all the capacity. I have an extra set of air bags I could use for suspension, but how do you raise the axle when not in use? Not sure how big rigs do this.

Thanks for any and all input!
 

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the back half of an MJ isn't that heavy.
we towed an XJ and MJ cross country on a 34' tag trailer a while back.

Worked out pretty well behind a 6.0h no F250.
and yes, we had problems with the 6.0 :flipoff2:

for raising the axle you could use big springs, summit has the timbren axleless setup on the website, but it's stupid pricey. Might be worth a look just to see how it works though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not trying to raise the ride height. I was trying to redo the ghetto looking hangers on it and maintain the same ride height and stiffen the rear half of frame all at once. I will take pics later to show what I mean. Going off of what PO told me he's had on this trailer it will handle two MJ's like they ain't even there, but its what I'm not expecting or planning to haul that would leave me regretting not beefing it up.

And LOL at the 6.0 comment!
 

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No one has any input or ideas on my frame strengthening ideas? Or the tag axle? I have an extra set of Ride Rite bags, can easily make the suspension parts for it, was thinking maybe recycle a set of Jeep coil springs to push the axle up, bags to go down, and weld a few chain links to axle tube and a couple links with a hook to frame. Let air out of bags, springs push axle up, hook chains, let a little air back into bags to hold tension against chains, and roll out!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
for raising the axle you could use big springs, summit has the timbren axleless setup on the website, but it's stupid pricey. Might be worth a look just to see how it works though.
Just realized you were saying this in response to the tag axle ideas. Sorry for some reason I thought you were saying something else, sorry if my reply came off wrong, I need more sleep in my life....
Thanks!
 

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why do you feel the need for a tag? 4 axles would be a pain to tow with i dislike 3 axle trailers anyways, i personally would just build new hangers and let it be unless when you put both rigs on it the frame has a nice bow in it, if thats the case i would run a long round tube down the middle of the frame, also if you broke through a board i would check out how all the boards look condition and mounting, my trailer uses the boards to stiffen it up a good amount, another idea on frame strengthening is to plate it, which could also be brought down to tie into the spring hangers if theyre the same width as the frame
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ya a new deck was already in the plans, before I broke through the deck lol
I was talking about making the third axle a tag not adding a fourth. Wow that'd be a disaster lol
You're talkin about a torque tube? I'm not real familiar with that concept but I can check into it.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Any idea what diameter and thickness of tube to use for that? I'm fixing to go google this but dimensions are great too if you know :-D thanks!
 

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It seems that a torque tube is to stiffen the side to side or corner to corner shimmy in a trailer, and does have very high reviews at that! It doesn't seem like it is geared toward stiffening it lengthways as much, though I'm sure it would. That's my main concern. Also it would be a huge job to put a tube in because my crossmembers are 1/4" wall box tube not jus channel, and the front gooseneck style tongue jack is welded full length on each side of it, and I'm fairly sure it would have to come off for the install. Well maybe not, I have to redo the rearmost crossmember on the dove tail so it might slide in from the back. Have to check on that. The amount of effort and the price of a 27' schedule 80 4" pipe might deter me from this mod...... I will check into it though.
I'm thinking that putting a piece of box tube between the frame rail and new, shorter spring hangers would help a lot, taking the box all the way to the rear. If that isn't good enough I will add channel along the tire runner decking and that should be plenty.
 
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