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Discussion Starter #1
It's hard to search info when the market for these has changed so much.

Looking for a rebuild able link end. Not a fan of snap ring style, dealt with Johnny joints in the past and they're a royal pain to assemble imo.

Also would like to use 7/8 w/ stud and 1 1/4 with stud and without from the same manufacturer.

Emf stuff fits all the criteria, but they are out of stock on the 1 1/4 medium, they do have the 1 1/4 large, but they look massive and I'm not sure I can fit them (motobilt yj crossmember) not do we need that much beef. Also, I tried calling, got a weird message, then tried texting with no response yet.

Spoke with tmr today, their joints look very nice and are all ready to ship. The only issue is that they don't make a weld on joint. Not a deal killer though. They are also priced even higher than the emf stuff, which is regarded as top notch.

Summit machine stuff looks decent, they have 1 1/4 with and without a stud. But no 7/8". Their prices are much better than the other 2, not sure if it's a case of "you get what you pay for" or paying a premium for a name.

Oh, and fuck ballistic :flipoff2:

There is also the duroflex joints, I like the idea for a more mild build, but this is 1 tons, 42s healthy V8, ect. Will these wear out prematurely?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m doing Currie forged at one end (do not meet your criteria) and synergy dual durometer at the other end. (Well On). Would a press in bushing meet your needs?
Maybe I shouldn't dismiss the Johnny joints for the snap ring. I haven't looked at them in over 10 years to be honest.

Like I said, it's a V8 YJ on 42, I'm building it for my father in law who wants "the best" he kinda gave me free rains on everything. He probably won't use it near its potential, but I want to make it as fool proof as possible.

I am going to give emf some time and see what they can do. I like that all the lowers can use the same rebuild kits (I'm doing weld ons on one end to avoid loose jam nuts)

Tmr is a close 2nd, but I'd have to come up with a weld on joint.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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I always vote Johnny joints or fk heims. Wayback in the day I liked RE joints but we used them at Edelbrock and I could get free races anytime I needed them.

@Wilson likes Metalcloak stuff, but I have zero firsthand experience.

I feel like 42’s are heim stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I always vote Johnny joints or fk heims. Wayback in the day I liked RE joints but we used them at Edelbrock and I could get free races anytime I needed them.

@Wilson likes Metalcloak stuff, but I have zero firsthand experience.

I feel like 42’s are heim stuff.
Wilson was the one who showed me the duroflex joints. He also said for a bigger rig, go with emf or summit.

I'm talking about hiems :flipoff2:

The ones I listed are considered rebuildable hiems, while Johnny joints and the like are "Cartridge joints"?
 

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I vote for Ballistic Joints if your not going to wait for EMF. I used them F&R on two separate builds and they are awesome. The Jeep in my avatar uses them and it's on tons and 42" stickies. Zero joint problems and going on 5 years of hard wheeling. I have ordered from Ballistic at least a dozen times in the last 10yrs and have never once had a problem with them. :flipoff2:

If your worried about jamb nuts coming loose, why not use 2 RH or LH joints per link. Keeps spare joint needs low and if you bend a link on the trail you have 2 ends of adjustment to compensate. With a weld on joint you only have 1 end.
 

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EMF, TMR look nice as well. Don't care for the JJ although the last set seem to have lasted forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I vote for Ballistic Joints if your not going to wait for EMF. I used them F&R on two separate builds and they are awesome. The Jeep in my avatar uses them and it's on tons and 42" stickies. Zero joint problems and going on 5 years of hard wheeling. I have ordered from Ballistic at least a dozen times in the last 10yrs and have never once had a problem with them. :flipoff2:

If your worried about jamb nuts coming loose, why not use 2 RH or LH joints per link. Keeps spare joint needs low and if you bend a link on the trail you have 2 ends of adjustment to compensate. With a weld on joint you only have 1 end.
More interested in rebuildable hiems than cartridge joints.

As of now the plan is (goatbuilt) trailing arm rear to keep the shocks a little more out of the way of the tire. So the frame side will have weld on ends anyway. I just figured I could do the front the same. I don't really see a downside as long as they're welded on correctly.
 

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I always vote Johnny joints or fk heims. Wayback in the day I liked RE joints but we used them at Edelbrock and I could get free races anytime I needed them.

@Wilson likes Metalcloak stuff, but I have zero firsthand experience.

I feel like 42’s are heim stuff.
What is your opinion of RE joints now?

My fab shop guy is partial to the fk heims and that is what is going on my 43" 'buggy'... once he has time :(
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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What is your opinion of RE joints now?

My fab shop guy is partial to the fk heims and that is what is going on my 43" 'buggy'... once he has time :(
I gave 16 of the extra large ones away. I want a supply of replacement races. Not sure if they support those anymore. Also I want forged threaded housings.
 

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Why fuck ballistic? I've bought lots of parts thru them. I'm using there joints on my build. There rated hell a strong
 

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When my tj was stretched 4 years ago we used the duroflex joints. I wheel the jeep fairly regularly around the desert where I live. I don't beat on it but don't baby it either and they have held up flawlessly. They are still tight and I opened one up to regrease it and it wasn't necessary. I don't know if they are better than other joints but there is virtually zero maintenance in 4 years. My rubicon express old cartridges would have needed to be taken apart cleaned out and then reassembled and tightened up or races replaced in that same time frame.
 

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I gave 16 of the extra large ones away. I want a supply of replacement races. Not sure if they support those anymore. Also I want forged threaded housings.
If you had them on the shelf, would you use them in a non-hardcore build? The part # I have on my shelf still have support for races.

I would 100% use the FK heims if I were buying new.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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My build is non-hard-core, but lack of maintenance is key because I cannot do it myself. Also if things do break I want the parts widely available. I might have used them if I was able to take them apart and futz with them.
 

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FK vs NHBB astro.

Both made in USA.

FK on the left, .750 bolt hole, .750 shank.
NHBB astro on the right, .750 bolt hole, .875 shank.
FK uniball is a pressed fit, NHBB Astro is roll staked.
Threads and finish go to the NHBB astro.
 

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Same for the big boys.
FK left, NHBB astro right.
FK 1" bolt hole 1" shank, NHBB 1" bolt hole 1-1/4" shank.
(not to say that you cannot order a 1-1/4 shank from FK).\

 

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This doesn't answer OP's question or pertain directly to this conversation directly, but I believe it's worth throwing out there.

An old school option that has worked better than any modern joint I've ever seen, but nobody uses anymore.

Dunptruck/heavy haul truck steering tie rod ends mounted into 1.25" thick plate.

"Scary! Single sheer!"

I personally have never built a rig using them. However, I have a friend with a rear steer Rockwell rig on 47's, built by John Loyd back in 2002. He has never once had a link failure or worn out a TRE.

They're rated for 300k miles under 90+ thousand pounds steering around 395 tires that are damn near 45" tall. They're way strongerthan anything we're using and have a similar packaging size. Just a different style mount.
 

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