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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
helping my brother with his chevy its has a NP203 with the part time kit. The 4x4 works but makes a loud popping noise which seems to come from the t-case. If you leave the hubs unlocked and have it in 4x4 it doesn't do it or if you leave the hubs locked but are in 2 wheel drive it doesn't do it. It seems to only happen when there is a loud on it, like driving. We pulled the case out and everything seems tight and the chain is good. Anyone have any ideas what to look for?
 

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The chain probably looked ok but I'll bet its streched out and jumping over the sprockets under a load. Very common complaint on a 4x4 with a 203. Remove the chain and try to fold it in half (by hand). If the ends touch replace the chain. Can be found at you local parts store. Bring the chain with you as there are two different widths available depening on the year. Also when you refill the 203. Fill with 30w motor oil. Anything heavier and the chain will overheat and pematurely stretch. Also very common.

Good luck,

trannyman <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I agree with FJ40MON, the chain is gettin ready to go. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"> Chains for the NP203's run about $90-$100. You can get a bearing and seal kit for a little over $200. It's a blast taking those xfer cases apart, gotta love those needle bearings. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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for what its worth, i agree w/ the first two posts, same thing happening w/ my friends truck, were just gonna throw in a 205
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are some pics of the chain.
Is this what your talking about by folding it over?
<IMG width=275 height=243 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/chain2.jpg">
<IMG width=285 height=232 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/chain1.jpg">
Appreciate all the help.
 

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let me know if you need parts. i work for a transmission parts distributor and can probably get you a good deal on what you might need.
another very common problem with the 203 poping or poping out of gear is that the linkage is not adjusted right or the linkage bushings are wasted.
good luck, pm me if you need parts.
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
 

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Chain for sure. Just replaced mine for the same problem. Don't let it scare you if you lay them side by side and one is not longer than the other. they can wear without streaching. What happens is the inside of the chain wears so it's gets loose. How much droop was on the chain before you removed it from the case? often you can push them till they touch the housing. They are done if you can get it to do that. with a new chain the movement is minimal and a little bit of a fight to get the front output bearing in.
 

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This is good info. My 203 just started makeing noises too. It first did it when the tranny shifted to 2nd. After that, it did it when it was going in and out of PARK. I cracked it open and the chain looked ok but now I know that it may still have issues.

How do I know if my 203 has been converted to part time. The 4wd shifter only has three positions. Would it have four if it had a kit? <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by BouncyTruck:
<STRONG>This is good info. My 203 just started makeing noises too. It first did it when the tranny shifted to 2nd. After that, it did it when it was going in and out of PARK. I cracked it open and the chain looked ok but now I know that it may still have issues.

How do I know if my 203 has been converted to part time. The 4wd shifter only has three positions. Would it have four if it had a kit? <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Does it have locking hubs?
With the truck in park can you spin the front drive shaft by hand? If so it has a part time kit. If no hubs then it's still full time.
The shifter has 5 positions but yours is probably full of crud and the detent pin is jamed. Carfully take it apart clean and grease it. The point between lock and hi (same deal on low side) is not real noticable. Pull the tranny hump off and you can get right to the shifter. If you don't have carpet you can have the shifter in your had in about 15 minutes with air tools.
I always go all the way to lock the gently tap it into hi or low. Seems to work better. For some reason when just going into high particularly the truck will sometimes pop into N. Never happens when I go all the way to LOC first then tap it back. Rolling slowly with tranny in N seems to be the best way to get them to shift.
 

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Grim,
Thanks a lot for the info. I now know that my 203 has a part time kit. I can spin the front drive line. I looked under the truck while my wife moved the 4wd shifter and it appears that one linkage is hitting the other. I'm going to get under it with a pry bar while my wife shifts it to see if I can get it into the other positions. Thanks again. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by BouncyTruck:
<STRONG>Grim,
Thanks a lot for the info. I now know that my 203 has a part time kit. I can spin the front drive line. I looked under the truck while my wife moved the 4wd shifter and it appears that one linkage is hitting the other. I'm going to get under it with a pry bar while my wife shifts it to see if I can get it into the other positions. Thanks again. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Once you take the retaining clip off the linkage it should be able to be shifted by hand. The shifter is where most of the fight comes from. Them hitting means that somebody along the way put them in wrong. Nothing can get up near them to bend anything so it had to be a assembly problem.
 

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OBURT:

Yes, thats exactly what I mean. Your half way there!

fj40mon <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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I'm in the process of rebuilding a 203.

According to your chain fold test, my 2" chain is in great shape, can't touch the ends, not even close. The wierd thing is the new chain that I pre-ordered from 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers, it's so flexible you can bunch it up in your hand like a bicycle chain. The design appears to be the same, it's 2" wide, the same lenghth and it fits the gears perfectly. What gives <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

The old chain is a "Morse Hy-Vo +"
The new one has a logo stamped on the links that kinda resembles "mm". Now I know it was'nt made by a candy co.(or was it?) Could it be Milemarker. In any case it cost $65,considerably less than the $90-$100 quoted here earlier...could this be a case of "made in china" syndrome <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/nuke.gif" border="0">

I should'nt stay up late worrying about this sh.t

havespine <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by havespine:
<STRONG>I'm in the process of rebuilding a 203.

According to your chain fold test, my 2" chain is in great shape, can't touch the ends, not even close. The wierd thing is the new chain that I pre-ordered from 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers, it's so flexible you can bunch it up in your hand like a bicycle chain. The design appears to be the same, it's 2" wide, the same lenghth and it fits the gears perfectly. What gives <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

The old chain is a "Morse Hy-Vo +"
The new one has a logo stamped on the links that kinda resembles "mm". Now I know it was'nt made by a candy co.(or was it?) Could it be Milemarker. In any case it cost $65,considerably less than the $90-$100 quoted here earlier...could this be a case of "made in china" syndrome <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/nuke.gif" border="0">

I should'nt stay up late worrying about this sh.t

havespine <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Mine was the same way. The chain will wear on the teeth on the inside so I don't put any faith into the fold test. I layed the old slipping cain on the new chain and for the most part they looked the same lenght.
Depending on the manufacture depends on how the chain is construckted. Some of them use a flat peice to join the links. some use a round. the chain using the round connection has more flex.
Once I put the new chain in I figured out where the wear was. It's not really noticable to the eye but it's there. I could just about touch the side of the case with the old chain. I had a pit of a fight with the new one to get the bearings back into the front output. The chain defelcts maybe 3/8s now. No more pop/bangs.
 

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Thanks Reaper, I knew you would have the answer. You're absolutly right about the link design, the new one has round swivel pins which does explain the flexibility. The old one has the flat swivel links, just like the one pictured in this thread (above) so it dos'nt fold.

Incidently Reaper, is the 2-1/2" chain better than the 2" chain? I noticed that the wider chain has smaller links, so any strenghth gain from the extra width might be offset by the sturdiness of the links on the narrower chain, making them equal in strenghth.
 

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Originally posted by havespine:
<STRONG>Thanks Reaper, I knew you would have the answer. You're absolutly right about the link design, the new one has round swivel pins which does explain the flexibility. The old one has the flat swivel links, just like the one pictured in this thread (above) so it dos'nt fold.

Incidently Reaper, is the 2-1/2" chain better than the 2" chain? I noticed that the wider chain has smaller links, so any strenghth gain from the extra width might be offset by the sturdiness of the links on the narrower chain, making them equal in strenghth.</STRONG>
Not sure on that one. It might be like splines. The more their are the stronger it gets. Hard to say.
The old chain out of my case and the new were both the same width. I'm guessing it was the original. I would say it was a 2.5. I'll double check. Old chain is in the garage and I can measure it. I'm not sure how you would run less width. both the chains the last link on the ends was long so it acted as a guide to keep the chain from walking off the gears.
 

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havespine, where did you get your new chain? My father owns an Auto Parts store and his cost is a lot higher than that. He can only get the Mile Marker chains & Parts.

Has anyone looked into Mile Marker's NP 203 Chain Saver Kit? :massey:
 

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BouncyTruck said:
havespine, where did you get your new chain? My father owns an Auto Parts store and his cost is a lot higher than that. He can only get the Mile Marker chains & Parts.



"I pre-ordered from 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers"
Newbee read :flipoff2:

Sorry bro had to do it.
 

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the 2 and 2.5 inch chains are not interchangeable. $90 to 100 is a good deal for the morse chain. i don't know if i'd run anything else. the morse 2.5 is about $45 more than the 2 inch version.
:D
 

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BouncyTruck said:
havespine, where did you get your new chain? My father owns an Auto Parts store and his cost is a lot higher than that. He can only get the Mile Marker chains & Parts.

Has anyone looked into Mile Marker's NP 203 Chain Saver Kit? :massey:
Chain save cost almost the same as a new chain. My factory chain had over 150k of fulltime use before it got to where it would jump teeth. If it's part time converted you will probably never replace another chain. Why bother with a excentric bearing carrier and bearings that you are now stuck buying special parts if they ever need to be replaced? I figure if your running full time you might buy another 50k with that kit. You will buy another 150k with a chain.
 
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