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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the full story...
So I pick up an '83 Longbed 4x4 with the 22r.
Bought it from a guy that isn't mechanical so I got most of the major service records down to the original window sticker.

From the records, it started running hot last year around August; radiator taken out to get rodded. There's another receipt in March that shows it running hot with the problem being the heater core leaking; that got bypassed. After that, the guy hasn't really driven it much and his mechanic thinks it's the HG about to go. That motor is a rebuilt and should have about 35k miles on it. It's an ATK rebuilt from the plate on the side.

The highest that it has ever reached on the temp guage is almost to the red. So what I did was take all the hoses and t-stat out to give everything a good flush. Did notice the radiator had a lot of sediment inside so the flow was probably obstructed. After the flush, new hoses, cap, and t-stat went in. Cool, runs good and it'll buy me time to research and upgrade to a 3-row radiator. Then the fawker starts leaking so I just got a replacement stock 2-row.

So this is what I notice now...
When I initially start up the motor cold and drive it, the temp shoots up but after a distance, it drops back down to normal. Once it drops back down normal, I can drive it hard and it'll still stay normal. But this is intermittent and doesn't happen everytime. Sometimes it'll stay normal.

Here's another thing I noticed...
The cooling system dumps water into the overflow as the liquid expands with heat but when it cools down, it doesn't suck any back in. So almost everytime I pop the cap off after it cools, the water level isn't at the top anymore. I gotta top it off almost everytime.

So that pretty much sums it up. Sorry for the long post. A number of you have helped me out in my previous post when I thought it was the radiator that was bad. Looks like that was it and something else. Thanks for all the help!!

So now I'm stumped again...

Ken

[ 07-23-2001: Message edited by: ken851 ]
 

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Originally posted by ken851:
<STRONG>Here's the full story...
So I pick up an '83 Longbed 4x4 with the 22r.
Bought it from a guy that isn't mechanical so I got most of the major service records down to the original window sticker.

From the records, it started running hot last year around August; radiator taken out to get rodded. There's another receipt in March that shows it running hot with the problem being the heater core leaking; that got bypassed. After that, the guy hasn't really driven it much and his mechanic thinks it's the HG about to go. That motor is a rebuilt and should have about 35k miles on it. It's an ATK rebuilt from the plate on the side.

The highest that it has ever reached on the temp guage is almost to the red. So what I did was take all the hoses and t-stat out to give everything a good flush. Did notice the radiator had a lot of sediment inside so the flow was probably obstructed. After the flush, new hoses, cap, and t-stat went in. Cool, runs good and it'll buy me time to research and upgrade to a 3-row radiator. Then the fawker starts leaking so I just got a replacement stock 2-row.

So this is what I notice now...
When I initially start up the motor cold and drive it, the temp shoots up but after a distance, it drops back down to normal. Once it drops back down normal, I can drive it hard and it'll still stay normal. But this is intermittent and doesn't happen everytime. Sometimes it'll stay normal.

Here's another thing I noticed...
The cooling system dumps water into the overflow as the liquid expands with heat but when it cools down, it doesn't suck any back in. So almost everytime I pop the cap off after it cools, the water level isn't at the top anymore. I gotta top it off almost everytime.

So that pretty much sums it up. Sorry for the long post. A number of you have helped me out in my previous post when I thought it was the radiator that was bad. Looks like that was it and something else. Thanks for all the help!!

So now I'm stumped again...

Ken

[ 07-23-2001: Message edited by: ken851 ]</STRONG>
I think your intermitant problem is an air pocket. After my top end rebuild it did the same thing. Take your cap off and let the motor reach normal temp. Run the heater full blast. Wait until you can feel hot water coming in throught the upper hose. Then make sure the radiator is full and put the cap back on. I'm not sure about the overflow not going back into the radiator.
 

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try a new radiator cap.if it keeps pushing water out and not taking it in this can cause a air lock to develop in system also. you can try driving it with the cap on the first latch also (just around town) to see if it helps. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
brector: heater was bypass by previous owner.

joec: got a new cap, hoses, and t-stat in when I changed the radiator.

I'll trying running with the cap off or at the first notch.

Hmm... Wouldn't hurt to pressure test it either.
 

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Have you checked your water pump? It wouldnt be the first time i have seen the vanes rusted away and not pumping enough,or even a gone all together. And what speed are you driving when this happens? Freeway speeds it doesnt overheat? Check that fan clutch if you do a lot of in town driving. Did it over heat before the rebuild? Never assume ATK is a perfect motor , i have installed many of the motors ,and most are flawless,but anything can happen. Check for head gasket leak as well. It doesnt have to leak water out the exhaust the bad gasket,combustion pressure can push through into the water jacket as well,you may have a crack head or block that only shows after it warms up. barf:
Your work is cut out for you ,but if you diagnose step by step you should be able to figuure this out.
Good luck
Gary <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> :
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Haven't checked the water pump yet. Like you suggested, I'm taking this one step at a time. Doing a little little bit each day after work.

The motor is usually at around 2900 rpm on the freeway. It will get hot initially and then drop back down to normal. I've beat on it so see it it'll shoot back up but hasn't. The fan seems to be blowing fine and the shroud is intact. The previous owner said it didn't overheat until last year. Then he got the radiator rodded out and it ran fine for awhile. After that, it started back up again and the heater core was bypassed.

Yeah, I don't count on the ATK being a perfect rebuilt.

Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
Originally posted by GaryGreco:
<STRONG>Have you checked your water pump? It wouldnt be the first time i have seen the vanes rusted away and not pumping enough,or even a gone all together. And what speed are you driving when this happens? Freeway speeds it doesnt overheat? Check that fan clutch if you do a lot of in town driving. Did it over heat before the rebuild? Never assume ATK is a perfect motor , i have installed many of the motors ,and most are flawless,but anything can happen. Check for head gasket leak as well. It doesnt have to leak water out the exhaust the bad gasket,combustion pressure can push through into the water jacket as well,you may have a crack head or block that only shows after it warms up. barf:
Your work is cut out for you ,but if you diagnose step by step you should be able to figuure this out.
Good luck
Gary <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> :</STRONG>
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I was ready for the HG news.
I just want to go through everything and make sure before tearing stuff apart.

Originally posted by TROYOTA:
<STRONG>you don't want to here this, but my bet is on a blown head gasket. That would explain almost all of your simptoms. sorry man.</STRONG>
 

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Originally posted by ken851:
<STRONG>When I initially start up the motor cold and drive it, the temp shoots up but after a distance, it drops back down to normal. Once it drops back down normal, I can drive it hard and it'll still stay normal. But this is intermittent and doesn't happen everytime. Sometimes it'll stay normal.</STRONG>
Air pocket, probably caused by...
<STRONG>Here's another thing I noticed...
The cooling system dumps water into the overflow as the liquid expands with heat but when it cools down, it doesn't suck any back in. So almost everytime I pop the cap off after it cools, the water level isn't at the top anymore. I gotta top it off almost everytime.
</STRONG>
...a bad cap, or more likely a leak somewhere. I've got the exact same thing going on with my truck, 'cept it doesn't overheat unless I'm really puhsing it hard for extended periods. I do know what's causing mine though, and it is the headgasket. I've got water stains all down the left side of the block, I put some alumaseal in to slow it down and so far it's doing ok aside from using a little coolant. Check the water pump like people have said, look at the bottom of it around the weep hole, if you see signs of water coming out of it it's bad. A proper pressure test would help diagnose it though.

[ 07-24-2001: Message edited by: Shane Krause ]
 

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Originally posted by ken851:
[QB]brector: heater was bypass by previous owner.[QB]
But running the heater full open allows the air pockets to escape. I wasn't meaning for you to flush it again. Just leave it open and on the hottest setting. This way it will purge all air in the system. Add a new cap and I think you'll be set.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I pressure tested the system tonight and found a leak.
There's a T-connector that comes with those flush kits that was leaking.

Crossing my fingers...
 

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I am currently fighting the same battle with my toy. I flushed the radiator and it made a difference but today on not that hot of a day it got hot. Then cooled down. I still think it is running too hot. When I am wheeling it gets toasty not into the red because I never let it. My water pump is ok but I am going to get a new cap and see if that makes a difference. Let me know what else happens.

This is driving me crazy.


~AM
 

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Originally posted by ken851:
<STRONG>I pressure tested the system tonight and found a leak.
There's a T-connector that comes with those flush kits that was leaking.

Crossing my fingers...</STRONG>
You know, every single one of those flush kits that I've seen has cracked and leaked. Hopefully that was the culprit, my fingers are crossed for you too as I'm about to dump a lotta $$$ into another motor to fix up and put in my truck, I'm sure you don't want to have to do the same. Good luck!

[ 07-25-2001: Message edited by: Shane Krause ]
 

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Good luck man...my advice...do a compression test and see if it might be a head gasket.. if not...my $.02 im running a chevy 160 degree thermostat in my yota and im having no problems with overheating...good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I finally get a chance to yank the head off. Low and behold...



Thanks for everyone's input.

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: ken851 ]
 

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second pic didn't show up.
So how do you pressure test? My moms 81 22r leaks down drivers side block now and again and now she is sayin it is getting fairly hot. We have just been driving the truck the way it is for quite a while so I don't really wanna fk with the head unless I REALLY have to yaknow.....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hit reload on the browser and try it again. Pic should load. Pac Bell's server can be slow.

Use a cooling system pressure tester.

Mine was leaking on the driver's side towards the rear. That's where the break in the HG is.
 
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