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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I guess when I flopped, the shock was enough to cause the bolt that holds the cam sprocket on to fail. So when the cam sprocket walked off, it sheared the cam dowel off. :rolleyes:

I was thinking about trying to drill the old dowel out and put a new one in. Does this sound feasable? Anyone know what size that dowel pin is? Any other suggestions?
 

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Damn!!!!!!! That cam bolt should have been torqued down to 56 foot lbs. It had no business coming off if it was torqued down. First off, if the cam bolt came off you will obviously need a new bolt, and buy a new camshaft! You cant just put a dowel in there, your whole timing system relies on the accuracy of that dowel! Do it right before your motor starts shooting valves and rods through your hood!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
tuckn18s said:
Damn!!!!!!! That cam bolt should have been torqued down to 56 foot lbs. It had no business coming off if it was torqued down. First off, if the cam bolt came off you will obviously need a new bolt, and buy a new camshaft! You cant just put a dowel in there, your whole timing system relies on the accuracy of that dowel! Do it right before your motor starts shooting valves and rods through your hood!
Well I did torque it to 56 ft-lbs 2.5 yrs ago when the timing chain was replaced. It didn't back out...it sheared in half just where it goes in the cam. Happened about 1 min after I fired it back up after getting it back on all fours after a pretty hard flop. Who knows, maybe the torque wrench wasn't calibrated very well and it got over torqued.

I'm just hoping I didn't bend any valves/rods when it went. I didn't hear any metallic sounds on cranking the starter and on visual inspection #1 intake and #4 exhaust were just b4 and past the peak of the lobes so hopefully I lucked out.

So I should just bite the bullet and get a new cam?
 

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sheared locating pin

on the cam will come out and when you replace it, either a new one from Toyota or a wrecking yard one from any 2xR series engine will suffice.
You will need to drill a hole in the center of the old one and use an easy out to remove it. Unless the hole is wallered out, you should be fine. I had the pin shear at 65 on the freeway and when all was said and done, engine ran fine:D Sometimes it is just plain old dumb luck :flipoff2:
Danny
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's Done

Follow up with what I did in case anyone else searches for this.

The dowel and new bolt from Toyota were under $5. It is a bitch drilling a hole in the old pin...it seems hardened. A right angle drill helps a lot. Just took the radiator shroad out and drilled through one of the holes in the sprocket. Broke a couple of bits but finally got the hole deep enough. I'm always scared of breaking those small ez outs, since the pin is not threaded I just used a sheet metal screw, put some plyers on it and tapped the plyers with a hammer to ease the pin out. Almost dropped the new pin down into the oil pan while trying to get it in. Lucky I had stuffed a rag down there (I also ordered 2 pins, just in case) Had to break out a counter sink to clean up the edges of the hole a little b4 the pin would go in.

The bright link was no where near the TDC cam mark...it must have jumped 6 or 7 teeth when the pin broke. Since the crank hadn't been out I just lined it up on TDC and lined the cam up the same, then put the chain on. Used a long socket extension through one of the sprocket holes with the other end on top of the rocker housing and leveraged it up to push the tensioner in enough to get the chain back on the dowel. It didn't want to go in so I rocked the crank back and forth a little and it slid right on.

Set the timing by eye, buttoned it back up and it fired on the first crank. Put the timing light on ... 5* BTDC on the nose.

I think it would have taken less time to just replace the cam, but this was cheaper. I didn't have anything else to do this weekend anyways!
 

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I have had this happen to me twice. Once when the rebuild engine was 3K old the other just last week with the engine 30K old. :mad3: The Dowel on the Cam and Distributer Gear broke. Both times the Cam Bolt was tight enough for me to need the break bar to loosen it. I replaced the cam, gear and distributor gear that time and will be doing it again this weekend. Both times I managed not to slam a valve but this has got me worried. Why would their be any play between the distributer gear, Cam gear and Cam to allow shearing force on this dowel - when the Bolt is torqued tight????? :confused:
 

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Yeah I got one from Toyota, a Level 2 cam as both my previous cams where reground toyotas. Is is possible that the bolt is bottoming out in the cam and therefore giving a false reading when torqued?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I forget now who told me this, but they said they had seen it a few times and it was usually related to some kind of a shock on the valve train/ timing chain that sheared the pin. This allows the cam gear to rotate until it torques the cam bolt enough to shear it off.

This makes sense to me after I figured out what was causing mine. I broke another dowel after I flopped again. This time I also bent a valve so I pulled the whole head. Thats when I noticed a small bolt had gotten loose in the top of the valve train (I would like to blame the PO but :?) There are two casting indentations in the top of the head directly under the cam. The bolt worked its way to that lowest point and I couldn't see it in the pool of oil. When I flopped over it was enough for the bolt to move up and contact a cam lobe and bind the valve train enough to shear the dowel. When pushed back on all 4's the engine would run for a min or so till the movement in the cam gear, now secured by only the bolt, tightened the bolt enough to shear that and stop the fun :(

So take a careful look under your cam for any loose parts ;)
 

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The cause of mine shearing the pin was the rebuilder(Modern Engine in Glendale, Ca. :mad3: ) didn't put the thick washer in that replaces the fuel pump cam on the EFI engines. This allowed a lot of wobble that finally did the deed.
Make sure there is no gap at all :smokin:
Danny
 

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Gawd I'm gonna sound like a newbie here but what could you expand on that some more? I am not familiar with the 22R and it's subtle differences with the 22RE, being injected. :rolleyes:

Gonna bolt it together tonight so feeling a bit eager here :)
 

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pony said:
Gawd I'm gonna sound like a newbie here but what could you expand on that some more? I am not familiar with the 22R and it's subtle differences with the 22RE, being injected. :rolleyes:

Gonna bolt it together tonight so feeling a bit eager here :)
When Toyota went to EFI, the fuel pump cam was replaced by a washer of the same thickness. That washer is at the end of the distributor drive gear :D
If you don't have a washer at the end of the distributor drive gear(between cam and gear drive), that will allow it to wobble thus taking out the shear pin!
Danny
 

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Ahhhhh!! :emb2:

That was the answer I have been looking for :rolleyes:

Big thanks :beer:
 

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toyrunner said:
The cause of mine shearing the pin was the rebuilder(Modern Engine in Glendale, Ca. :mad3: ) didn't put the thick washer in that replaces the fuel pump cam on the EFI engines. This allowed a lot of wobble that finally did the deed.
Make sure there is no gap at all :smokin:
Danny
Those guys are the biggest crooks, I know several people (my self included) that have been screwed by them. They do shit work! Avoid them like the plague
:eek: ......Hans
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyrunner
The cause of mine shearing the pin was the rebuilder(Modern Engine in Glendale, Ca. ) didn't put the thick washer in that replaces the fuel pump cam on the EFI engines. This allowed a lot of wobble that finally did the deed.
Make sure there is no gap at all
Danny

Oatmeal said:
Those guys are the biggest crooks, I know several people (my self included) that have been screwed by them. They do shit work! Avoid them like the plague
:eek: ......Hans
I spread the word everytime I have the chance :D Reaching out to touch someone!
bastids :mad3:

They told me the reason the timing chain snapped at 12,000 miles was that I had torqued the timing cover down too tight! :shaking:
The fact thast I had installed the engine myself voided their warranty as well. I am not a ASE certified mechanic and don't know what I am doing was their response :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
danny
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyrunner

I am not a ASE certified mechanic.............. [/QUOTE]They no longer are, as well. If you check out their website, they no longer post their certifications, I have heard that they were pulled by BAR (the Bureau of Automotve Repairs) due to numerous customer complaints :shaking: ......Hans
 

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toyrunner said:
Was the washer/shim missing?
Danny
:shaking: Yup that's what I didn't do, Can't believe after all the work I've done on that truck, having the FSMs and the online reading, that I missed that point. :rolleyes:


Thx, bolted it together today and I sure looks right this time :beer:
 

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pony said:
:shaking: Yup that's what I didn't do, Can't believe after all the work I've done on that truck, having the FSMs and the online reading, that I missed that point. :rolleyes:


Thx, bolted it together today and I sure looks right this time :beer:
I sure looked at all the manuals and asked all the right questions as well. I found the problem when I went and pulled a pin from a wrecked Celica(22RE) That had the washer I was missing. I put it on without to test and the sprocket wobbled. I then test fit with it in, felt right and bolted it up. :D
I am happy that Modern Engines in Glendale, Ca is getting theirs. Too bad it was in 1997. I would be all over them.
Glad you found the problem.
danny
 

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Yup my truck runs great now that I have the washer on + cam, TC etc :)
 
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