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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
that is probally it but for the mean time untile i can get a weekend with it not raining to figure everything out im just going to make it push start and run 12v through a switch straight to the starter, thanks for the help though and the part number
 

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just checked my voltage going to the starter, i have 6.5 going to the main power wire and i have 0 going to the solinoid wire
Are you sure your battery has a full charge?

6.5 to the main power wire sounds like your battery might be dead and 0 going to the other wire would be correct if you are not turning the key to the start position.

More often than not, your problem will be a simple one. I would pull a battery out of a car that you know has a good battery and put it in your 4 runner.

If it starts, but won't start after sitting overnight, you may have a short that is draining the battery.

Good luck.
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
i ended up just crimping a female end to a 16 gauge wire and pluging that into the starter solinoid and touched the other end of the wire to the battery positive while the key was in the on position and the fired up, drove to my church about 5 miles down the road and when i got out the 4runner started right up without using the wire directly to the battery, so i think ill just throw that wire in the glove box just incase this happens again i can atleast start it up and get home, also might put a push button start on it in the future but i would like to keep it original as possible. also i tried using my brothers battery last night to start it but it didnt work either so im pretty sure there is a short somewhere but its pouring outside and i dont feel like gettting soaked. but with the way the PO spliced into wires and shit is scary and stupid so its probaly a short somewhere, thanks for the help though.

also i have an lce header on it and i cant find the right header to exhaust pipe gasket for it, anyone had luck with a particular one, i have just a standerd mr gasket 2 1/2 inch gasket it on it but its leaking with that one, thanks guys
 

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Ok, here is a thought for you. I have this same problem with my truck, but it's not that big of a deal. I just deal with it. Your power wire going from the battery to the starter has a break in it. Mine just clicks, until I get out and move that wire around. Then it fires right up without hesitation. As far as a 0 reading on the solenoid, that only gets power from the switch when you are cranking it over. That should be the reason that it starts sometimes, but not all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
hmmmmm so you saying the main power wire that runs right from the battery and bolts on to the starter could be the problem? i cleaned the contacts on that wire but i just assumed the actual wire was good lol ill check that tomorrow im guessing that it prob wouldnt be a bad idea to replace it anyways considering wires like that are only about 10 bucks at autozone and its most likley the original, thanks for the tip ill check that out tomorrow
 

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Yeah, that's all that's wrong with mine. If it don't start, I just jiggle it a few times. Just enough for it to make contact. I have a new cable, but haven't felt like putting it on yet. Sometimes, those wires corrode in the center (small defects in the insulation, just enough to allow water in) and only allow power to pass through like 1/4 of the wire. Sometimes, moving it (vibration, turns, by hand) can make it make contact enough to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
that could be why i only had about 6 volts going through that wire when the key was turned the start, ill def have to check that out

my exhuast set up has about 2 feet of pipe between the header and the cat, the header connects to this pipe with a 3 bolt connector and i kinda like having that way for some reason but if i cant find a gasket that will seal LCE sells one or welding it is an option
 

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That main wire, is hot all the time. Doesn't matter if it's turned to start, run, acc, or off position. If the main cable does not have 12 volts, then it's either bad or the battery is dead. Both of which can be checked with a volt meter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
well its def not the battery tried two different ones and both were good as new so it must be that cable, ima replace it when i get paid tomorrow

the motor seems to run better and better with every mile i put on it and i pray that it keeps going that way

today though my water temp gauge just sits in the middle and does not move so im thinking that maybe the sender unit itself is acting up because i checked all the gauges yesterday when i had everything in the dash torn apart so i get to fix that now
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
starting to lean aginst an air pocket in the radiator in chevys we ust to take the hose coming from the thermostate to the radiator and then put the collent in and it would push all the air out
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
i let it sit for awhile and when i started it up the gauge was at 1/4 then slowly worked its way up to half so i guess the gauge works, the first couple of days driving it would stay real high untile the thermostat opened up so maybe everything is just working right the way it is now or is my thermostat stuck open now? and it dosnt seem to run any hotter than it was before the temp gauge started doing this so idk im thinking about putting some cheapo gauges on it because idk how accurate these 24 year old electric gauges are
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
fixed the starter problem, replaced the main cable and converted it to a push start and its worked fine all day, i also like the push button(kinda makes me feel cool) and i think i was just imagining things with the temp gauge because its not overheating and is working fine but heres another thought im only at 164 miles on the rebuild but when i come to a stop the idle drops to about 400 and if i throw it in neutral the idle goes back up to 750 where i set it, but when it goes there it sometimes bounces a little bit between 700-750, i was planning on dong the first oil change and ajusting the valves at 200 miles could this idle problem be valve related or should i dig deeper into it. truck runs fine any other time though
thanks guys
 
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