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Discussion Starter #1
1990 22re
Can anyone tell me, should fully closing the idle screw kill the motor? With the screw cranked all the way in, the engine idles down to 500 but still runs. Is that a sign of a vacuum leak?

I'm trying to tune the motor after a full rebuild and I have a fluctuating idle issue. I set the idle to 750 RPM and it will then slowly climb to 850, then down to 650 and repeat.

All gaskets are new oem Toyota, the idle screw o ring has been replaced as well. I'm stumped
 

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I just cleaned my throttle body, upper intake plenum, and all the stuff bolted to the throttle body and intake. My engine is idling smoother than it has since I've had the truck and the idle screw is all the way in and it's idling at about 700 according to the dash tachometer. If you haven't cleaned the throttle body and plenum, I'd recommend doing that. Someone on here helped me out with nearly the same problem a week or so ago.


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I just cleaned my throttle body, upper intake plenum, and all the stuff bolted to the throttle body and intake. My engine is idling smoother than it has since I've had the truck and the idle screw is all the way in and it's idling at about 700 according to the dash tachometer. If you haven't cleaned the throttle body and plenum, I'd recommend doing that. Someone on here helped me out with nearly the same problem a week or so ago.


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Yeah, I cleaned the upper and lower intake inside and out. I cleaned the throttle body as well. However, the screws for the IAC valve don't want to come out, so I didn't remove and clean that. My high idle works great, so I'm assuming The IAC valve isn't the problem
 

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I can't say on that. My screws seemed stuck too, so I put the screwdriver into the screw and gave them a good "smack" with a hammer and they broke loose. Although a good penetrating oil like aero-kroil sprayed on the open end of the thread end of the screws would help break them too.


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I'd clean the IVAC for the heck of it, surging/fluc idle is a sign of a dirty/bad IVAC, the motor shouldn't run on a cranked down idle screw. Also take a look at your TPS, I'm having the same problem with high idle/running way rich and when I inspected my TPS the wound spring was way worn out with little resistance when turned.
 

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I'd clean the IVAC for the heck of it, surging/fluc idle is a sign of a dirty/bad IVAC, the motor shouldn't run on a cranked down idle screw. Also take a look at your TPS, I'm having the same problem with high idle/running way rich and when I inspected my TPS the wound spring was way worn out with little resistance when turned.
Sounds like I better get on cleaning the IAC valve.

Your confirming my understanding that the engine shouldn't run with the idle screw fully closed. Because mine continues to run, Im guessing its safe to say my issue is a vacuum leak, whether it's in the IAC valve or elsewhere?

I replaced the TPS. Had a little problem with that though. I swapped the 22re into my first gen a few years back and didnt think to get the vin # :homer:. As luck would have it the part# on my TPS was illegible. Using the part# on the throttle body/ECU We have been able to determine the engine is a 89-91 cali emissions and there are two TPS part nunbers that show up. I flipped a coin and went with TPS 89452-14050. I was able to get all the ohm readings within spec and the idle drops when I jump the diagmostic plug, so I assume all is ok with the TPS. I'm still a bit suspicion the TPS could be the wrong one, but I dont really know where else to go with it. I read that the TPS part numbers arn't really all that important, as long as the TPS matches the throttle body and the plug matches the the harness. If anyone can confirm that, that would be great.
 

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tps adjustment, idle should be 850 without and 750 with jumpered @ 5-8° btdc jumpered.

If you replace the tps, you need to adjust it using a multimeter.

google roger brown tps. That page will give you instructions and part numbers with values.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
tps adjustment, idle should be 850 without and 750 with jumpered @ 5-8° btdc jumpered.

If you replace the tps, you need to adjust it using a multimeter.

google roger brown tps. That page will give you instructions and part numbers with values.
yeah, i'm aware. I used Rogers write up as well as my fsm. Ohm readings are set within spec range for 89-95 22re.
 

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Check to make sure your brake pedal is properly adjusted.. Any amount of vacuum draw on the booster for an extended period of time will cause surging.

Also, don't fuck with the screw. There is a reason it's typically blocked off.
 

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Another thing to check is for air pockets in the cooling system. An air pocket around the coolant temp sender can cause fluctuating idle. If you don't have a Lisle spill free funnel and the adapters for your radiator, get one. It makes life easier when it comes to bleeding the cooling system.
 

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Another thing to check is for air pockets in the cooling system. An air pocket around the coolant temp sender can cause fluctuating idle. If you don't have a Lisle spill free funnel and the adapters for your radiator, get one. It makes life easier when it comes to bleeding the cooling system.
I attempted to get the Air out by running the front end up onto a big 5' dirt pile. I let it run with the cap off for a while and squeezed on the hoses. I'll look into the Lisle funnel, it wouldnt be the first time air pockets caused me problems.

Check to make sure your brake pedal is properly adjusted.. Any amount of vacuum draw on the booster for an extended period of time will cause surging.

Also, don't fuck with the screw. There is a reason it's typically blocked off.
I didnt think the idle screw on an RE ever was blocked off. Anyway, 22reperformance suggested I change the idle screw o ring and sent me one with my order. The old one felt more like a plastic washer than an o ring, it was pretty bad.
I'll try plugging the intake vacuum port for the booster and see if that changes anything.
 

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I didnt think the idle screw on an RE ever was blocked off. Anyway, 22reperformance suggested I change the idle screw o ring and sent me one with my order. The old one felt more like a plastic washer than an o ring, it was pretty bad.
I'll try plugging the intake vacuum port for the booster and see if that changes anything.
Hmmm I might be wrong about that screw.

Either way. I don't fuck with the screws on those throttle bodies because having it off just a bit will make the IACV fight against it.
 
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