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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i dont know if i'm gettin too much fuel, not enough fuel, or if the ignition is cutting out...it smells rich all the time, but if i adjust the fuel screw it is actually too lean on topend; is my cold start injector stuck on? it runs FINE until everything gets nice and warm ( 30-45 minutes of driving stop and go) and then it wil spit and sputter between 2000 and 3000 rpms at part throttle, and when i'm rollin onto the gas in 4th it just wont wind up for a reeeeeealy long time, then when i'm cruisin i feel it kick in and it hauls ass like it should.........all cylinders are firing.......its EFI.....ive replaced the 02 and TPS. No cat to be clogged......i cant let it go on any longer, gonna have to park it if i cant fix it,i get a error code or 5 blinks a pause and then 11 blinks, thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: Fightin' mad fireboy ]

[ 09-16-2001: Message edited by: Fightin' mad fireboy ]
 

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your........post........is......way.....too.....annoying.....to ......read......
<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hey dude............................................get a life...........................................put up or shut up <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Well, in the first place, I do not believe your engine has a "Fuel screw". From your description, I can think of 2 possible problems....1: TPS not adjusted correctly, leading the computer to believe that the throttle is positioned differently than it is. Or, 2: Bad MAS (Mass Airflow Sensor), not reading volume of incoming air correctly.
Before you do anything, try resetting your ECU by pulling a cable off your battery for 30 seconds. Sometimes your computer just gets the wrong idea, especially if you did have a bad O2 or TPS. Worth a try.... <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ive pulled the fuse multiple times.....and the AFM has a air screw.....something is cutting out and i dont know if its ignition or fuel......i also dont know how to interpret a code of 5 blinks, a pause, and then 11 blinks.....
 

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5 blinks=Ox sensor, 11 blinks="Switch signal".
For Switch Signal, The Toyota Manual says "Air conditioner switch ON, neutral switch OFF, idle switch OFF during diagnosis check.
Trouble areas: A/C switch circuit, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, Throttle Position Sensor circuit, Throttle Position Sensor, ECU.
Sounds to me as if you have a bad TPS adjustment/circuit, a bad ECU, or bad wires/connector at the ECU. This last seems most likely, as I have read posts by several folks on this board with that problem.
Good Luck <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
okay, i'll check the ECU plug......my AC isnt hooked up, the vaccuum switch on top of the valve cover for hte AC got the wires ripped out....is this what could cause it? if so , its okay, i dont ue it anyhow <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> thanks guys, oh, i replaced the cap and rotor and its 10 times better.....only 1 spitter last nite after 2 hours of cruisin......later
 

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Dallas, your problem sounds to me like an ignition problem. The same thing happened to my sister's 90 Camry. It would run fine till warm, and then it would sputter and hesitate...but when it cools it runs fine again. After diagnosing the whole sha-bang I sware I was gonna give up and junk the thing but it ended up being the ignition ignitor...the little thing attached to your ignition coil. If you can get a hold of one of your buddy's ignitor and replace it with yours for a short trip to determine if yours is bad or not. Just a thought <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> Hope you figure it out, don't wanna park your ride...plus my friends and I are head'n up to go wheel and camp once it starts snowing up here so fix it up cause you're invited <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i was thinking maybe my AFM was bad......but i dont know how to tell. tonite it screwed up quite a bit.....gettin on the freeway, it was really doggy and if you held it 3/4 throttle, it would lag for 5 seconds and then scream up to top speed. I got off the freeway and it was cracking and popping as i let off the gas ( its new thing to do) and when i wen to take off i really couldnt accelerate cause it was hesitating so much.......???
 

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Code 11 is the A/C. If you had A/C and have disconneted it, then you'll get the 11 because the computer isnt seeing the signal from the compressor. Thsi will not cause any problems.

Bu the Code 5 being the o2 sensor could. Are you sure you don;t have a broken wire there? I know you said you replaced it but double check the wire.
 

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You can run a vehicle with the O2 unplugged and it will run fine. Your mileage will suffer but it won't cause something this bad. The ecu just doesn't have the ability to adjust this far for the O2 sensor. The only way I can think of you being to rich on the bottm end and not up top is if you pulled the cover of the afm and richend it up. The fuel screw you speak of is an air bypass for idle. Like someone else said it might be the ignitor, bad ones get funny when hot. Alot of misses are suspected of being fuel related when they are ignition problems. Also check the afm with an analog ohm meter, it might not have a linear reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i HAD the AFM richened up 2 teeth, but backed it down a month ago cause it ran better ( imagine that <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> )this problem started 4 months ago, but was VERY subtle.maybe once every 3 weeks it would do it, now its 9 out of 10 times i drive it. How do i check my AFM reisitance? will the AFM out of an 88 work? its got an extra tube on it. ignitor or coils can be checked cant they? how? thanks guys, i think i narrowed it down to air or spark, fuel system seems just fine.plug wires are only 7 months old 8.5mm crane firewires. which problem, air or spark, would cause it to crack and pop on decelleration, not backfiring, just pops and crackles versus the normal smooth drone.....thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i THINK i solved it....turned out to be my 6 month old crane cams 8mm firewires. I replaced them and problem seemed to go away. i got new TPS and ignitor in the past few days and that didnt make a difference, hoever my timing was at 20* or so, at idle <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> just kicked it down to about 10 and we'll see how it runs......thanks for all the help <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I hope you fixed it but it sounds to me like vapor lock in the fuel lines. Wait until a hot day and see if it happens again. Look for an exhaust leak or something if it does happen again.
Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i do have a little exhaust leak where i took out my cat....could this be causing problems?
 
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