[dirtriderx99]

It runs normal all other times. When crawling it sputters and dies unless I can keep the RPM's above 3000. It will start right up after it dies. My coil Ohm-tested good. This problem started happening in the middle of my last wheeling trip and nothing in the engine area seems to have changed. I melted my O2 sensor wires on that trip and that threw a check engine light, but I wired them back up and reset the computer. I don't have the CEL now but it still dies. The fuel filter was recently changed. My next plan of attack is to check the 4 grounds in the engine bay. Anyone have other ideas?

 

[Bad Karma]

Check your air intake tube boots for cracks/tears.

 

[chromewontgetyouhome]

When I had a cracked intake boot my truck ran like crap all the time. Make sure you have nice clean grounds. Have you adjusted the idle lately? My problem with cutting out was the idle air control valve below the throttle body.

My truck started having a crazy high idle so I adjusted the idle screw which lead to the motor stalling at idle when in closed loop (cutting out while coasting to a stop at traffic lights gets old quick, though all I had to do was pop the clutch and it would fire right back up). I pulled apart the IACV and cleaned it out, threw it back in and let the truck go into closed loop then re-adjusted the idle screw. It ran great, no more cutting out, but still had a stupid high idle while warming up. I took the IACV back apart and turned down the screw that's inside of the valve, problem solved.

If the air valve isn't the problem check your throttle body, intake, vac hoses (fuel pressure regulator) to make sure they are not full of build up/cracked.

 

[UndefinedTaco]

check your tps too

 

[FuzzyZ]

sounds like it could be a Vac leak somewhere. start listening!

 

[OOP'S]

When I had a cracked intake boot my truck ran like crap all the time.

Mine ran fine on the street and down the freeway, as soon as I started wheeling it,it would start cutting out.

 

[85lockdtoy]

year and mileage......to me it sounds like fuel..... if you say fuel filter is good ....check fuel pump.....ive stated on here before about when toyotas fuel pumps "start" to go out....and they do exactly what you are describing........we need more info in order to help you.......

i would start with replacing o2 sensor .....you may of fried the o2 and they are cheap and easy insurance for future problems....and since it started after this happend i would start there....then go to fuel pump.....if its high mileage pump then this is also good insurance for future problems...... let us know


i had this same problem in a 1985 with roughly 260,xxx miles on the fuel pump...the whole truck had been rebuilt other then that fuel pump .....it would die ONLY when i was at low rpm''s/idle crawling .....and sometimes it happend spuraticly....it would happen then it wouldnt.....and as stated the extra load of 4x4 low would cause it but i didnt have to keep it up to 3k ....normally 1.5-2k rpms .....i used my hand throttle to limp home....picked up a denso pump from parts geek for like 70% off retail....and if oem went 250,000 miles plus it should be good for as long as i own it.......

of course this is with the thinking he would of started with a vac leak / and checked all connections where tight including the spark plugs ......

 

[W.T.W.]

check the airtubes over real good. mine did the same thing a few years ago and it had a crack in one of the ribs in the bend. I couldn't see it untill I took it off and flexed the elbow. You might also check your motor mounts, especially the drivers side, this is what led to the crack in my tube.

 

[dirtriderx99]

check the airtubes over real good. mine did the same thing a few years ago and it had a crack in one of the ribs in the bend. I couldn't see it untill I took it off and flexed the elbow. You might also check your motor mounts, especially the drivers side, this is what led to the crack in my tube.

W.T.W. was spot on. My drivers side mount was dunzo and I had a large tear on the bottom of my air tube out of sight. When the drivetrain wasn't torquing, the tear wouldn't open up. Crawl gears rotated my drivetrain enough to open up the tear. New chained motor mount and ACE 3" rubber elbow - 3" PVC intake and we're back to normal.

 

[85lockdtoy]

good to hear its fixed.....

 

[W.T.W.]

Glad that's all it was. I did the Chain fix on my motor mount as well. Took me almost six months to figure out what mine was, I even put it in the shop to replace the timing chain and they couldn't figure out why it was stalling.