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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My slip yoke is leaking in my 90 YJ. A friend told me that they will leak there if they are overfilled, but how can you overfill them through a 3/4 inch fill hole. Wouldn't the fluid just come out there? I think the rear seal is bad. Can someone lead me in the right direction and do I just pull off the rear housing? What is the NAPA part number for the seal? thanks guys.
 

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because its a crappy 231 and they ALL leak. easy expensive solution is to go atlas II!!


the cheaper way is to buy the $7 part, pull the d/s and take about 3 minutes to change the seal. it's a simple job.
 

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i don't know the part # but it's a simple fix, i changed mine, fixed it for a while, but it will always leak so get used to a small leak.
 

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Most of the time it isn't the seal, but the yoke itself. Carefully clean off the area and inspect in front of the U-joint inside the yoke. There is a steel cup that is pressed in the yoke which is known for leaking. The only true fix is to replace the yoke, but I have seen them welded and even sealed up with RTV that seem to hold. To do this, you will have to remove the u-joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So do I need to pull off the rear housing or can I do it with just removing the driveshaft and prying out the rear seal and beating in a new one.
 

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Usually you can get away with just pulling the d-line.
The tail cone is just held on with three bolts and is sealed with sillycone. If you run into trouble, just pull the tail cone off and smack the seal out with a punch.

Even with a new seal and yoke, it will prbably still leak some.
I agree with Otto Man. Just skip all the trouble of swapping out the seal and just throw in the Atlas:flipoff2:
 

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Glen Vaughn said:
My slip yoke is leaking in my 90 YJ. A friend told me that they will leak there if they are overfilled, but how can you overfill them through a 3/4 inch fill hole. Wouldn't the fluid just come out there? I think the rear seal is bad. Can someone lead me in the right direction and do I just pull off the rear housing? What is the NAPA part number for the seal? thanks guys.
approach your freind and slap the f*ck out him for being a moron, unless you had your jeep standing on its nose you will not overfill you 231

just buy a new seal, make sure the slip yoke is clean and rud a thin(i repeat thin) layer of grease on the slipyoke before you reinstall it

and i hate to spill the beans but.......





THIS SHOULD BE IN THE M'FIN NEWBIE FORUM

so :cow::cow::cow::cow:........ it
 

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I agree. Remove the tail cone and replace the rear seal. I did this for a friend a few months back. I don't remember the part number, for the seal. Your NAPA parts clerk will know what seal your talking about.

Short of replacing the 231 with an Atlas ($2K). You could always just install a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and upgrade the rear drive shaft ($400 - 500). The SYE will fix that rear seal issue and gets rid of that dam slip yoke drive shaft too. The AA kit is sweet. :D
 

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Stonefly said:
I agree. Remove the tail cone and replace the rear seal. I did this for a friend a few months back. I don't remember the part number, for the seal. Your NAPA parts clerk will know what seal your talking about.

Short of replacing the 231 with an Atlas ($2K). You could always just install a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit and upgrade the rear drive shaft ($400 - 500). The SYE will fix that rear seal issue and gets rid of that dam slip yoke drive shaft too. The AA kit is sweet. :D
You "almost" sounded smart until I read the second paragraph, Why in the F*ck would he have to instal an SYE, i still run a slip yoke and I LIVE ON THE REV-LIMITER, there is nothing wrong with an SY, There is no neccesary reason to purchase an SYE
If i were you i would save my money(by just extending your factory DS($40)), wheel with what you have(gain the experience you need) and at later date purchase the right T-case to suit your wheeling needs:flipoff2:
 

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B.A.R.K said:


You "almost" sounded smart until I read the second paragraph, Why in the F*ck would he have to instal an SYE, i still run a slip yoke and I LIVE ON THE REV-LIMITER, there is nothing wrong with an SY, There is no neccesary reason to purchase an SYE
If i were you i would save my money(by just extending your factory DS($40)), wheel with what you have(gain the experience you need) and at later date purchase the right T-case to suit your wheeling needs:flipoff2:

not to pick a fight, but sounds smart to me. Wheeled with my stock SY for just over 110k miles and broke several not to mention the notorious leaking issue. I put a JB Conversions kit on and never griped about my NP231 again. If you wish to keep the NP231 and wheel with it and increase the strength and reliability the smartest thing you could do is spend $400 and save yourself from spending $90 everytime the cone housing cracks from throwing a joint. If youre running more then 3" of suspension lift a SYE is practically necessary if you ever want the driveline to be semi smooth and solid when offroad. If you want to carry spare everything and shop for second chit and your claim to fame is wheel what ya got, thats just great. But dont knock a proven upgrade cause its not in your budget/standards. I eventually trashed the NP231 and went with an Atlas II and it too can seep on you. Leaks happen, replace the seal and hope youre luckier the second time around.
 

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CWBYinJEEP said:

Wheeled with my stock SY for just over 110k miles
If youre running more then 3" of suspension lift a SYE is practically necessary if you ever want the driveline to be semi smooth
I am running 1 inch springs SOA and i have know vibe issues(granted i still run the 2.5-(118K) so my driveline is a little shorter)
An sye is not necessary

CWBYinJEEP said:

I eventually trashed the NP231 and went with an Atlas II
I am by no means stating that the 231 is the greatest case evermade and should never be replaced. Its design alone is plagued with probs. Just saying that the money for an SYE could be used in other places if it is not necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I already slapped my bud. I got her fixed right up today. Just popped off the tail cone, out with the old seal and in with the new. Works great, thanks guys.
 

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Glen

Glad to hear that you were able to help your friend by replacing the seal in the tail cone. Like I said. I did the same for a friend of mine a couple of months ago.


B.A.R.K

Maybe you need to reread that second paragraph. :flipoff2:
 

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B.A.R.K said:


I am running 1 inch springs SOA and i have know vibe issues(granted i still run the 2.5-(118K) so my driveline is a little shorter)
An sye is not necessary
You probably also know all about how the driveline vibrations will destroy bearings and seals, and quite often causes the snap ring at the rear bearing of the 231 to break, allowing the main shaft to move back and forth, further destroying the mode synchro set.
Happened to me. Happened to a lot other people that tried to avoid running a SYE and CV driveshaft.
If nothing else, run the $150 Rubicon Express hack and tap SYE. It will save a lot of grief later when your non SYE 231 leaves you sitting on the side of the road.
 
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