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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some of you may have seen my first ATTEMPTED build
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600780&highlight=vw


Lets just say I have learned plenty over the past few years. Alot has happened since I started that build. so I scrapped the chassis and I am putting the drivetrain in my daily driver IFS truck. My clutch was worn to shit, and someone wanted to buy my 3.0, so this weekend I am taking on the task of getting this thing at least welded up and hopefully wired to run (everything but plumbing and charge piping).


Read through the TDI FAQ for most of the information needed.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=776335




Here are the parts

-1994 Pickup
-TDI from a 2001 Jetta (ALH)
-W56
-Marlin HD clutch
-dual cases
-2 inch body lift (I had no choice)
-Intercooler (240sx)
-2.5inch exhaust no cat no muffler
-Tuned ECU
-custom guages

The ECU was sent of to VWMikel of TDIclub.com forum. He eliminated The immobilizer and Tuned the ECU for some more balls along with various other tweaks.


The wiring harness is a stand alone unit needing just +12v and GND to run






One of the largest issues you will deal with with a swap like this is the oil pan clearance. I tried numerous oil pans but due to my newbieness I ordered the wrong one twice. This was a costly mistake so I decided to use the stock ALH pan. As you will see in later pictures the issues are more at the front of the diff than the rear so different pan would make very little difference. Personally I would suggest spending the time to make a custom steel one to suit your needs. Their is no way in hell I can get this pan off without pulling the engine.

The Vacuum pump on the rear of this engine in particular sticks out the back about 2-3inches more than most other VW engines. Because of this I had to push the drivetrain forward 3in. The steering stabilizer was also a bitch so I will move it out of the way slightly, most of you wont have to deal with this.











I also had to drill and tap the VW Crank pulley to accept the Toyota PS pulley. I eliminated the AC and the VW PS pump in favor of making a bracket on the passenger side for the Toyota pump. I then used a 730mm belt.





 

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Discussion Starter #2
Before installing the engine I layed out the harness and Plugged in into the laptop With Vag-com cable and software to check it out.

Mercedes motor mounts with some Toyota mount parts







 

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Discussion Starter #3
This was today's progress. Got engine in, trans and cases bolted up. Passenger mount started. Xmember mocked up ready for welding.



3.o is huge compared to the TDI















 

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I admire your willingness to work on this project and to work out problems but I must say that TDI engine is not exactly a desireable engine.

First of all it has a timing belt which sucks and second of all I have no idea why in gods name you would want to keep the POS electronic injection pump!!

With the time you must have needlessly spent messing with all that wireing you could have been done with two of these swaps, and to think you could VERY easilly swap a mechanical pump onto there and be done with it makes me say WTF?

Electronics downright SUCK!! And in an offroad truck they bring the suck to an entirely new level of suck.

They are delicate, finicky, difficult to diagnose, you need a fucking laptop to adjust the pump, VERY susceptible to water and other things your likely to encounter in the outdoors.

I am not trying to insult what you have done here but there are much better ways and much more reliable ways of doing what your trying to do, electronics are not one of them.
 

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The MK4 TDI is actually a really strong and reliable motor. The right turbo and a good tune and you can pull some torquey numbers on the low end. So you have to change a timing belt every 80k miles.

If you know what your doing electronics are great. Being able to adjust mixtures, idle, boost and diagnose from a touch of a button in cab? sounds horrible.

Cant wait to see this up and running. :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I admire your willingness to work on this project and to work out problems but I must say that TDI engine is not exactly a desireable engine.

First of all it has a timing belt which sucks and second of all I have no idea why in gods name you would want to keep the POS electronic injection pump!!

With the time you must have needlessly spent messing with all that wireing you could have been done with two of these swaps, and to think you could VERY easilly swap a mechanical pump onto there and be done with it makes me say WTF?

Electronics downright SUCK!! And in an offroad truck they bring the suck to an entirely new level of suck.

They are delicate, finicky, difficult to diagnose, you need a fucking laptop to adjust the pump, VERY susceptible to water and other things your likely to encounter in the outdoors.

I am not trying to insult what you have done here but there are much better ways and much more reliable ways of doing what your trying to do, electronics are not one of them.


You are right on the timing belt thing, but if it is done regularly their is never an issue. Your opinion is bias, your using a Mercedes mill (timing chain) :flipoff2: I own a Mercedes shop and I agree those Diesels are amazing.

This reminds me of the old timers that didn't want to let go of carbs. I am not afraid of the electrical at all. It was a huge learning experience and the knowledge gained is priceless. I am not building this truck to go water crossing, its a daily driver. If I were building a rig to get me way out into the bush and cross rivers it would be mechanical.

Electronics are a pain to get up and running but once they are they will outperform any mechanical system.

Its a matter of opinion
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Had a short day at the shop so I didnt get all the gusseting done. The drivetrain is now supported in the truck. I spent most of the morning finessing things to gain a cm of room between the firewall and vacuum pump.

The mounts are in and just need to be gusseted. because I moved the drive train forward so much I was able to use the stock frame portion of the Motor mounts from the 3.0

Cross member is welded up and just needs holes drilled for the rubber mount. It uses the stock xmember mounting locations with a stock transfer case rubber mount on the rear reduction box.







Oil pan clearance turned out good. I should be able to remove the pan with no issues. The oil will drain on to the diff, not an issue I will just suck it out from the top.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Its not a huge problem. I have the tools to suck out the oil (smart car oil changes). But the quick drain nipple is a slick setup, I think I will go for this option on the first oil change.
 

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Very slick build, glad to see you kept the electronics, to many people just swap pumps and lose the adjustability of the electronics....wouldnt be a true TDI swap without them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Haven't had much time this week to work on the truck so far. I was able to get a few hours in late in the day today. Basically just got the potentiometer mounted with a large washer on the top bolt to tilt the top out from the firewall. I also got the intercooler roughly mounted behind the grill in front of the rad support.







 

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Very slick build, glad to see you kept the electronics, to many people just swap pumps and lose the adjustability of the electronics....wouldnt be a true TDI swap without them.
Yea and gain rock solid mechanical reliability!!

Man fuck electronics and there "adjustability", when I want to adjust something I want to use a screw driver and tools not some fucking laptop and an OBDII connector, along with damn graphs and numbers!!

Reliable Electronics is an oxymoron, as is an electronic diesel!!

Diesels should be mechanical the way they were when Rudolf Diesel invented them!!!!!!!!!!!

VW can take that electronic piece of shit pump and shove it!

P.S. Sweet build and it is a nice little diesel, that intercooler looks sweet behind the toyota grill!!
 
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