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Mike, I like this thread better than the other one since you can have nice big clear pictures here. Do you think that the collector can be cut down stream of the merge but before the flange and have an elbow welded in so that it angles away from the frame more? If there is a way that I could use the header I would really like to.
 

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Nice work as always...

but no 3.4???? :confused:

2RZ-FE(2.4) because:
1.) Better fuel economy
2.) ONLY 8HP/20TQ less than the 3.0 had (150HP/180TQ) when it was new
3.) lighter weight, and higher revving than the V6
4.) easier maintenance
5.) more room under the hood for cooling or York compressor
6.) 2.4l but still way more powerful than a 22RE
7.) $600 for complete engine with 42K miles, complete harness, radiator, W59 tranny, exhaust from manifold to past cat.
8.) Cheapest 3RZ here was around $1100. 8HP/17TQ was not worth the price difference.
9.) Unconfirmed but heard from one of the Toy mechanics that the 2RZ does not have the scissor balance shafts that the 3RZ has that can be problematic.
10.) Because Crash is doing the swap with the Marlin Crawler 2/3RZ bellhousing/R151F/dual ultimate setup and my final crawl ratio will be 244:1 :flipoff2:
 

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Nice. I really like the sleeve for passing through the sheetmetal and running the new circuits through existing passages.

Couple of questions, why would you not wrap the new wiring with some type of loom cover and are the nylon zip ties just plain old regular ties or a heat resistant tie? I hate wiring and this is making it look too simple...
 

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Lower that motor as little as possible. The exhaust likes to end up exactly where the front driveshaft is, you may end up protecting it by limiting compression at the front passenger corner.

Wait... you've done a 3rz swap before... Where's the link?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Mike, I like this thread better than the other one since you can have nice big clear pictures here. Do you think that the collector can be cut down stream of the merge but before the flange and have an elbow welded in so that it angles away from the frame more? If there is a way that I could use the header I would really like to.
I dunno rome--isn't that header stainless?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Nice. I really like the sleeve for passing through the sheetmetal and running the new circuits through existing passages.

Couple of questions, why would you not wrap the new wiring with some type of loom cover and are the nylon zip ties just plain old regular ties or a heat resistant tie? I hate wiring and this is making it look too simple...
My normal process is build it--test it--loom it.. There will be more to come :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Lower that motor as little as possible. The exhaust likes to end up exactly where the front driveshaft is, you may end up protecting it by limiting compression at the front passenger corner.

Wait... you've done a 3rz swap before... Where's the link?
I aint worried--I can make this lil thing work anyplace I put it :D

I have ---search my username here and secret squirl :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Ok I got the mounts removed from the frame on both sides--and even removed the fuel line(I have a plan already for this ;) )



So I dug around the rig and found the mounting hardware/brackets for the t-case mount and of course---I had had modify the mounts--they were too plain :D

So I got the brackets tacked to the frame



So for now I am going to leave the t-case mount till I get the motor where I want it--then I will have to re-position the t-case brackets and burn them baby's in :D
 

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nice
i like those fror t-case brackets,i used one on my suzuki but had to narrow it by 7"
so your going to move the engine passenger an inch? seems like the most logical thing to do............
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok--so now with the t-case mounts tacked into place the motor will stay in place (side to side tilt)... So I sat and thought about how I wanted to do the mounts. I was origionally going to cut all the mounts off the frame and do the style like I do my 4.3's--but the risers off the frame where the engine mounts sat--the shock hoop supports were also tied into that. So I went out in the back yard to the pen where I keep my midgets--and did some midget tossing till the idea popped in my head :D

So here are a bunch of pics of how I did them and they turned out perfect and should offer alot of years of being beat on..

Here are the base plates I made

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Here is the passenger motor mount. I am going to have to get a 45 degree fitting for the oil pressure switch--the mount will rub very ahrd against the connector. I also removed the oil filter adapter due to the new motor mount rests agaiant it--I will have to clearance the mount once I pull the motor out--easy fix









 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
And here is the drivers side--kinda tight to work down in that hole--but I am a skinny lil fawker :D







So now the motor is sitting on its own. I ended up dropping the hight 1 1/4" and 1/8" to the passenger side due to the amount of room from the intake to the brake booster.

So now with the engine where it belongs--I can hop back to the t-case and get that finished up next
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
nice
i like those fror t-case brackets,i used one on my suzuki but had to narrow it by 7"
so your going to move the engine passenger an inch? seems like the most logical thing to do............
I ended up dropping the motor 1 1/4" and 1/8" to the passenger...
 

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ya, so can you take a 3/8" pie shape piece out just below the collector?
weld back with stainless wire and trigas or tig with silicon bronze filler and argon?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
ya, so can you take a 3/8" pie shape piece out just below the collector?
weld back with stainless wire and trigas or tig with silicon bronze filler and argon?
I actually had thought about that-- But I haven't had a chance to tig stainless yet--and I hate to experiment with romes header :D
 
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