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the two photos of the header are really deceiving,the first looks like there is plenty of room,and the second, the perspective looks as if there is no room at all between the block and frame.
anyhow i'm sure it's a very minor challenge for you ,last post i'll let you go to bed..........
brackets look clean.
 

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So I dug around the rig and found the mounting hardware/brackets for the t-case mount and of course---I had had modify the mounts--they were too plain :D

So I got the brackets tacked to the frame



So for now I am going to leave the t-case mount till I get the motor where I want it--then I will have to re-position the t-case brackets and burn them baby's in :D
Anyone else have problems with their t-case bolts backing out of the t-case with this style of mount? What's the secret? Red loctite?
 

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maybe I missed it, but are you going to wire up the OBDII in the dash harness? Reason I ask is b/c I don't have a dash harness for my year 3RZ. I really want to be able to check everything when I get the motor running. Just not sure how hard it is to wire the OBDII reader into the 85' dash harness or the ORS harness that I've got...
 

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after thinking about the header,it might be better to make the cut about an inch away from the engine flange and move the entire header towards the block, room permitting [ less of a pie shaped piece to get more angle at the collector end]i'm just problem solving out loud.......
 

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I actually had thought about that-- But I haven't had a chance to tig stainless yet--and I hate to experiment with romes header :D
TIGing with the silcone/bronze is very forgiving. i use it at work to bond thin galvanized and stainless to mild steel...i havent TIGed in a couple years and it wanst a big deal...cool build(again) :D
 

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Anyone else have problems with their t-case bolts backing out of the t-case with this style of mount? What's the secret? Red loctite?
Ive had questions pre order, but not that I recall post owning. Blue loctite at most, and use the bolts we send. Note, Crash, there are 7 longer bolts rolling around so you have stock (actually a touch more) thread engagement for the crossmember to tcase.
 

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The "secret" is to build a skid plate ( from frame rail to frame rail so when you land on it, your not impact loading the Drivetrain or bolts that hold it all togehter....
D'oh! :homer:

Makes sense. Thanks Rick.

Ive had questions pre order, but not that I recall post owning. Blue loctite at most, and use the bolts we send. Note, Crash, there are 7 longer bolts rolling around so you have stock (actually a touch more) thread engagement for the crossmember to tcase.
I used longer bolts from the CV shield from donor t-cases. :grinpimp:

Sorry Crash...back to your build. :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Ive had questions pre order, but not that I recall post owning. Blue loctite at most, and use the bolts we send. Note, Crash, there are 7 longer bolts rolling around so you have stock (actually a touch more) thread engagement for the crossmember to tcase.

Yup--they are sitting on the bench and I was going to use them once the mount went onto the rig for the last time :smokin:
 

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That looks like a OBX Header, they use 304 stainless tube for their stuff.

TIGing that to another piece of 304 is cake, use a 304 or 308 filler rod
 

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It is an OBX header. I was debating on whether to go with a Thorley or LC Engineering since NWOR is out of the question but since no one other than NWOR makes a 4-2-1 header then I figured that the OBX would be fine.

That looks like a OBX Header, they use 304 stainless tube for their stuff.

TIGing that to another piece of 304 is cake, use a 304 or 308 filler rod
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
maybe I missed it, but are you going to wire up the OBDII in the dash harness? Reason I ask is b/c I don't have a dash harness for my year 3RZ. I really want to be able to check everything when I get the motor running. Just not sure how hard it is to wire the OBDII reader into the 85' dash harness or the ORS harness that I've got...
Oh ya---the DLC will be wired into the rig--haven't gotten to that point yet :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
after thinking about the header,it might be better to make the cut about an inch away from the engine flange and move the entire header towards the block, room permitting [ less of a pie shaped piece to get more angle at the collector end]i'm just problem solving out loud.......
hmmmmm--- Well looking at it--I am pretty sure the best point to cut it would be about 4" above the 3 bolt collector

TIGing with the silcone/bronze is very forgiving. i use it at work to bond thin galvanized and stainless to mild steel...i havent TIGed in a couple years and it wanst a big deal...cool build(again) :D
Thanks paul--I might give it a shot

That looks like a OBX Header, they use 304 stainless tube for their stuff.

TIGing that to another piece of 304 is cake, use a 304 or 308 filler rod
I think I will have to get some filler rod.. I haven't tig'd with my machine a whole lot--I certainly need more time behind the handle...
 

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Crash - nice setup, great work. Great attention to detail.
If I every do another motor swap, I'm going 2rz or 3rz.. I see 300hp on pump gas with turbos, reliable power...

Impressed with the install.
 

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The guy that I bought the 6-puck clutch from runs this website:

http://www.paradiseracing.com/

He has an AE86 Corolla that was doing 7.86 sec 1/4's @186mph with a turbo'ed and nitrous running 2RZ-FE!

Crash - nice setup, great work. Great attention to detail.
If I every do another motor swap, I'm going 2rz or 3rz.. I see 300hp on pump gas with turbos, reliable power...

Impressed with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
if you don't mind, please be as detailed as possible w/ that... I'm trying to get as much info on that as I can.
Keep your eyes peeled ;)

Crash - nice setup, great work. Great attention to detail.
If I every do another motor swap, I'm going 2rz or 3rz.. I see 300hp on pump gas with turbos, reliable power...

Impressed with the install.
Spanks--I am pretty anal about my work ;)
 
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