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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been reading through all of the 2wd->4wd swaps that I can find, and the only question that I haven't been able to get an answer for is... if I buy lift springs from a site like Trail Gear, what size difference will I need from the front to the rear to be level? I have heard lots of combo's of springs that will make an IFS 4x4 converted to straight axle level, but the fact that the 2wd frame goes up in the front makes me wonder if I will need something like 4" lift springs in the rear, and 6" in the front?

I have also read that the 2wd frames are the old factory straight axle frames, so would that mean whatever would make an 85 stock straight axle level, would also make my pickup level?

Getting really excited for my SAS, and will be pulling the trigger on the deal as soon as I can get this little tidbit figured out :)

Thanks for any help!

Josh
 

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I'd probably order the lowest lift height spring possible. Your axle is going to push forward with the hanger and new spring center pin location. Whatever else doesn't fit, you will need 4wd fenders and some cutting on the firewall to clear +35's. As far as getting the truck to sit level, It will probably be maybe an 1" low in the front due to frame differences, not a big deal. The rest can be made up with shackle length or maybe a very small block out back.

I wouldn't sweat that detail because your bumper, winch, and other cargo will probably fuck up whatever height you are trying to achieve.

Go with 3" springs to stay low as possible and let the other details work themselves out.
 

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If you are using a new front hanger ie trailgear style hanger it will be the same as an ifs 4wd the frame kickup is about 10-15" back not different at the front.
 

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You should dimension the shackle tube off of the top of the frame rail as opposed to the bottom because the section height is about 1" shorter on the 2wd.
 

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Go with 3" springs to stay low as possible and let the other details work themselves out.
Keep in mind that 3" spring with shackles and the hanger end up giving you probably 5" or more of lift.

Plenty of people just run 3s and trim the rest they need for whatever they are running which is probably what I would do.
 

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If you position the box correctly with a flat pitman arm, you could probably french the front hanger in to go lower. Tough to do with a 4wd IFS frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Really appreciate all the fast feedback.

Smewhtguy: Thanks for the info on the front of the frames being the same, as I have fabbed up a front hanger similiar to the trailgear style.

Pietro: Glad you mentioned about measuring down from the top, I read your whole build and it looks great.

For this build I don't plan to do anything too extreme. I'm looking at just running 33's, and might go with 4" lift that way I don't have to cut anything or switch fenders out.

What length of shocks do you guys run for these? I was figuring on running 12".

Also, what would be a good way to go for springs? Brand new front and rear sets from Trail Gear is about 550, which seems kinda rough...

Josh
 

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If you want to stick with 33's, I would replicate my build minus the body lift and go with Old Man Emu springs.

Mount your box as far forward as possible without cutting up the body mount area, and push your axle one hole forward on the spring perches.

You will have to cut your 2wd fenders or get some 4wd ones.

That really is the perfect combo with a 2wd frame. I think using the conventional SAS stuff from all the normal vendors will make you taller than necessary unless you french the hangers in and run the shortest shackle possible.

Just my opinion.
 
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