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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 6.5 lift up front, and 4 in the rear. To get the truck level I was think'in of using a 3 1/2" lift block. I like the rear springs on the truck now. They are 56" Dodge caravan's that work well. Is a 3 1/2 block too much??
 

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in my opinion ANY block is too much - lower your hangers if you can't get it out of the springs..
 

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I have some 3.5 blocks you can have, they
cost me two set of rear springs in a year.
On second thought, I wouldn't wish them on
my worst enemy. <IMG SRC="smilies/scary.gif" border="0">
 

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After reading all of that. I am afraid to say this.
I have 1" blocks in mine. They are steel and spot welded to the housing.
Sorry. but they work fine for me.
I just know that I am going to be flamed for this.
 

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guess it is what you are using it for (truck).
if rock crawling get springs!

if its for looks no one would care?
 

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Hmmm....I run welded blocks, but then again I don't really rock crawl.

Mostly just mud here in Arizona.

I'll stick to the streets. Thanks for the tip.

<IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Jay
 

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Blocks encourage axle rap. They act as a torque arm and bend your springs into an s shape. Just by adding a 3.5" block you'll approximately triple the torque the axle puts on the spring.
 

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So, lets solve the man's problems...
Run a 1 inch block, either oversized or welded. They are more like 'extended spring perches" at that point.
Get 4 inch longer than stock shackles until you can either get new springs, lower the front, or mod the hangers.
 

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Originally posted by BrianR:
<STRONG>Blocks encourage axle rap. They act as a torque arm and bend your springs into an s shape. Just by adding a 3.5" block you'll approximately triple the torque the axle puts on the spring.</STRONG>
DITTO........

<IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by BrianR:
<STRONG>Blocks encourage axle rap. They act as a torque arm and bend your springs into an s shape. Just by adding a 3.5" block you'll approximately triple the torque the axle puts on the spring.</STRONG>
Just thinking out loud......if the torque source is the axle
centerline, then as the springs are moved further from the axis
of torque, doesn't the lever affect reduce the torque loading at
the spring?
Jay
 

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Originally posted by ROKTOY:
<STRONG>Hmmm....I run welded blocks, but then again I don't really rock crawl.

Mostly just mud here in Arizona.

I'll stick to the streets. Thanks for the tip.


Jay</STRONG>
<IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
This is the best answer guy spot Ive found..
before I started to build my truck I lived on the bulletin board, so know that I have gotten started all you dirt for brains have helped. So a 1" welded and rework my rears to get the extra is in the plan. I'll try and get it done this week..
 

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Originally posted by ROKTOY:
<STRONG>Just thinking out loud......if the torque source is the axle
centerline, then as the springs are moved further from the axis
of torque, doesn't the lever affect reduce the torque loading at
the spring?
Jay</STRONG>

Think of a Torque wrench, or any wrench. As your hand (the torque source) gets further away from the nut, doesn't it get easier to turn. That's why torque wrenches and breaker bars work so well. And also why cheaters are used.
 

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I run a 2" block and buggy springs, I bet that makes a bunch of you just sick, hahaha! But, I also run a traction bar that keeps the axle wrap from happening!
 

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I understand moment levers. On a torque wrench the moment of rotation is at the socket, or far end. The longer the wrench, the more torque multiplication you get.

Now consider holding your arm out to your side and placing a weight at elbow distance out. Next, move the weight out to you outstretched hand. Which would be easier to lift?

The one at your elbow would. The axis of rotation is at your shoulder. In this case the longer the "lever", the more work that is needed at the axis of rotation to move the weight.

I'm trying to understand on an axle/spring set....is the true rotation axis thru the axle centerine, at the spring plane, or somewhere else.

Maybe the rotation axis occurs at the spring plane.....but I'm intuitively guessing that the axis can occur thru the axle, or at the spring plane, or anywhere in between. I also think this would depend on block height and length, spring length, rate and arch.

Just saying "blocks suck" or "they create wrap" are not definitive answers.

I could just as easily say 22Rs suck 'cause they have no power...let's talk purpose and geometry.

Thanks for letting me ramble......
 

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Originally posted by ROKTOY:
<STRONG>
Just saying "blocks suck" or "they create wrap" are not definitive answers.

I could just as easily say 22Rs suck 'cause they have no power...let's talk purpose and geometry.

Thanks for letting me ramble......</STRONG>

these are PCE answers, BaHaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
<IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0">

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: SeaBass44 ]
 

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There are two (2) axis of rotation. One being the center of the axle, the other being the center of the fixed, or top, leaf of the spring, directly above the axle. The axle has torque from the action of the pinion on the ring gear. But as the axle moves forward, the resistance to change in motion between the axle and the rest of the vehicle creates torque.
 
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