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No,Flexy Flatty said:It seems to me that all it does is let the axle drop without adding any down pressure (like a revolver shackle)
you can do a 3/4, where the top 1/4 elip has compression and does not sit flat againse the frame. In this configuration you could make your upper 1/4elip the equal rate to your lower 1/2 elip leaf and would increase your up and down travel while maintining the same "down pressure" as just the 1/2elip.
axle warp is a problem, and the this setup will have more trouble locating the axle so you may also need a panard bar and tracktion bar...
The longer the upper 1/4elip is the more you will need a panard bar.
The softer you make the top 1/4 elip the more axle warp you will have and need a traction bar.
So if you make the top 1/4 elip really stiff you have less problems with axle warp, will not "need" a traction bar, but will have minimal flex advantages, but may give desired height, almost like jsut a shackle lift.
If your 1/4 elip is short you will have less problems with axle location and will not "need" a panard bar, but will have less added wheel travel.
If your 1/2 elip leaf is 150lb/in thats only 75lbs/in on each eye of the leaf, so for a matched 1/4 elip rate with some up travel youd want about a 75lb/in 1/4 elip... correct?
So how long of a top 1/4 elip can be used with out really needing a panard bar. I was thinking of using about a 25in 1/4 elip off a F350, either only the top leaf or top two leafs (stiff) to minimixe axle warp. The 1/2 elip is about 25in from the shackle to the axle center so the frame end of the top 1/4 elip will mount directly above the axle center! is that too long to have any axle location...
Any non noobs with some trial and error experience have input....