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Discussion Starter #1
I can't hardly get on the net from my home since qwest installed DSL in the complex my dial up connection has gone to $&^% (and I would rather use the 39.95 DSL fees I would pay to put into my truck, so it's taken forever to get some stuff up-loaded. So here's pics of the last few weekends worth of projects.

Crossmember clearanced for new longer d-shaft because of crawler.


Square front driveshaft. I installed an 85 CV front output flange on my transfer case ('81) and my diffs were already double drilled to accept the later 10mm u-joint bolts. The outer tubing is 2.5 trailer hitch stock, and the inner is 2.0 regular tubing. All .25" wall. (shaft extended in picture to show potential useable travel of 8+ inches or so.)


Loads of clearance (although it still may not clear once we get the waggy's under there. May have to buy all-pro's x-member after all.) Remember, I have an L45 4spd so my entire tranny assembly is 5" or so shorter than 84 and on 5spds. I have 3 degree shims on the spring packs already and with the crawler I now have a 1 degree angle on the u-joint with the CV so that's just about PERFECT alignment. The square shaft seems to be vibration free up to about 40 mph on pavement.


The 3/4 doing its thing. You can just see the torque rod bracket that is welded to the top of the diff which is now the rear mount for the anti-wrap bar. More details on that thing when I get better pictures. The bar is made out of a torque rod that we cut in half, threaded one end 5/8 fine, then welded a long tube to the other end with some huge 5/8 fine threaded jamb nuts welded to the open end. The threaded portion allows the bar to twist on itself, but keep the axle from wrapping. Works awesome. BIG bracket bolted around and through the horsecollar crossmember. Axle wrap is negligible, but on-road is quiet because of the fat torque rod rubber bushings at each end.


On trail. Did I mention I love my crawler?


This weekend I'll be doing the rear bumpstops. The mazdas compress a little too well and drive the rear tire right up into the frame. (I've got a 1988 wide-track rear end under there already and I'm running 33x12.5's on 8" rims.) I'm going to set the stops to where it ceases to compress right before the tire hits the frame.

I've painted the back end yellow already to cover up the primer from the 17" bob. Can't believe that I took all summer working on this thing and only took one "real" trip to Tillamook (and that was back in May). Looking forward to next summer....

[ 09-20-2001: Message edited by: Wheelie_Pete ]
 

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nice flex, pretty good lookin rig!

you sould use some camo paint. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Yes that is a nice clean job but what about that tin hanging from the crossmember,is that to protect the CV joint? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
 

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Watch out for your horseshoe crossmember,
after 5 years of hard wheelin' my crossmember had torn almost all the way around at both sides, to fix problem take 3/4" round and weld horizontally from crossmember back to stock shock mount tube.
With a crawler the crossmember still takes alot of flex and cant hold up for long.
Didn't find the tears till I took the bed off to build a flattie.
Ken
 

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Don't forget some skidplating to protect that rear case...the Alum doesn't take rock rash very well, also if you eventually come up with a way to mount the 2nd case that seems to reduce the flex that eats motor mounts. Replace those a couple of times at retail and you've bought a dual case x member.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll eventually get the all-pro x-member for the skid plating, but just to get me up and running we decided to clearance the original x-member (cash funds are depleted). As for motor mounts getting eaten up, I'm going to chain them down as per Roger Brown's idea, this weekend.

That piece of tin hanging off the bottom of the x-member looked like it would function as a stone shield for the CV. I have no illussions that it is a skid plate. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

[ 09-21-2001: Message edited by: Wheelie_Pete ]
 

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what size/ make u bolts, plate did you use for the top leaves? looks tight <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My u-bolt top plates are All-pro. U-bolts came with them. I have the wide track 1988 rear end under my truck so the axle tubes were substantially wider than the original 81' axle housing.

Update: chained my engine down on Saturday. No more scary engine movement in 4 low low. Seriously, it was moving A LOT under torque, and my motor mounts are still good. chained it with 1/4 link chain with a plastic tube slipped over the chain to keep it from banging around. still allows for some normal movement, but halts it from the obscene twisting motion of double low.
 

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sweet.....dude I am so diggin' the rock sliderz(great minds think alike) <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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what keeps the tubing from binding?, on the drive shaft.
Do you just grease it a lot?
 

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Damn, This is a old post! The squares shafts don't bind at all. the tubing us smooth on the inside and slips freely in and out. and yes a lot of grease is used to keep the "clanking" sounds down.

BTW I've been runnig my squares shaft up front for over a year with no problems and I can get up to 45mph ish before I start feeling any vibs and thats with the CV joint. I'm not sure how fast Pete can go but I think his is real similiar.
 

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well on a newer post they linked to this so I thought I would ask the guy who seemed to know what was going on. Thanks
 
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