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<IMG width=120 height=90 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/0846s.jpg"> <IMG width=120 height=90 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/0847s.jpg"> <IMG width=120 height=90 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/0848s.jpg">
 

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coiled,
Before you get carried away with radius arms, do some careful reseach on building them. Search back on this page, there's miles of info already been thrown out about it. What you're proposing can work, but you need to make sure you have plenty of available bushing flex so the arms will work right.
You might look to ford ranger or f150 coils, there are a variety available that may work for you.
DO LOTS OF RESEARCH ON THIS, IT WILL MINIMIZE YOUR TRAIL PROBLEMS AND RE-FABRICATION TIME AND EXPENSE.
 

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Ok, I'm back from Arizona, lets talk more on coils..... Hey Dirtrod, what is your spring track in back and are the coils mounted straight up and down or at an angle??
 

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Spring track ? Not sure of the terminology. I have them as close to vertical as possible and as wide as possible, they slope in a little at the top to allow for the wheel travel ( 1 wheel up , 1 wheel down ).
 

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With the "Y" link system you are talking about, the only problem you will have is the axle needing to twist when one wheel up and other down, but this is not nessisarily a bad thing, you can use this efect on the street to work like a sway bar, and off road, you can disconect one of the links and it will move free.
If you don't want to hve the dificulty of disconecting one, you can build a slip section into one that you can snug for the street. look in the ford section for arms, and you will find somthing that I'm talking about.
 

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Originally posted by Drew Persson:
<STRONG>Sure does seem to make a difference in the rebound when you're trying to pull one to full extension by hand, setting one is easy and on five it's tough as hell.


<IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
hate to answear this this way.. but can't resist..

no its not!!!

the laws of physic's dictate that it is just as easy on setting 5 as it is on setting 1.

check again.
steelman.
 

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Hey Ant & DirtRod, what coilovers are you running? Did you buy new or used? $ (if you don't mind, ballpark)?

Looked for a while, decided that I better just SOA for now <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> and get it on the trail. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> But I'm still looking for the future.
 

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Originally posted by steelman:
<STRONG>hate to answear this this way.. but can't resist..

no its not!!!

the laws of physic's dictate that it is just as easy on setting 5 as it is on setting 1.

check again.
steelman.</STRONG>
That's sure odd, I've had three pair of 9000's on two different vehicles and they all behaved this way. No minor difference either. I was recently changing spring packs and to make it easier to pull the shock mount off the ubolts I turned the shock to one and pulled it down. Then the mount (hanging from the shock) kept drifting down and getting in the way, so I shoved it up all the way and turned it to five. It stayed up. Coincidence?
 

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Originally posted by DavidO:
<STRONG>Hey Ant & DirtRod, what coilovers are you running? Did you buy new or used? $ (if you don't mind, ballpark)?
</STRONG>
Used in the front, $300 total, new in the rear $800 total. That consists of Shocks, coil-over kits and springs.
 

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Originally posted by randii:
<STRONG>You want to be sure to throw in CG height, overall weight, roll center height, and maybe rotational moments of inertia into your list of variables to consider if you want to get really in depth.

Don't forget squat, anti-squat, unsprung rate, etc. etc. Link systems are COMPLICATED little buggers.

Randii</STRONG>
This whole thread is VERY interesting to me. Any details/ info on squat, anti-squat, etc...?

[ 07-16-2001: Message edited by: JEEPRZ ]
 

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Squat is when the rear of the vehicle lowers under acceleration, and of course anti-sqaut is when the rear lifts under acceleration. It all depends on where the rear links push on the Instantanious Center on the vehicle as to which it will do. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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Hmm...ok then, since the details would take up alot of space here, where is the best place to get info on this?
 

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I would try the library, look for books on 4-link suspension or Racing suspension. There are a lot of books written on 4-link for Drag-racing and circle track that would apply to Rock Crawling.
 

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Originally posted by dirtrod:
<STRONG>I'm running a 4 bar-Vlink front and rear with coil-overs and it handles like a big quadrunner, the harder I hit it, the better it likes it. I'll never go back to leaves on this rig.
<IMG width=440 height=330 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/P5040107sml.jpg"></STRONG>
Do you happen to have any pictures of your front and/or rear suspension? I would really like to see some. Also, the way you have it put together, does the suspension bind during articulation because the axle wants to turn one way when it goes up and opposite when it goes down? Thankyou.
 

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Originally posted by Patman:
<STRONG>I'm not questioning your math skills, but explain how this works effectively.

If you think about it from a strictly mechanical view, a 450lb spring is gonna need 450 lbs exerted on it to compress 1", whether it's another spring or a solid piece of metal pushing on it, it should not make a difference.</STRONG>
okay i cant prove his math, but i pulled an example out of my ass to check it and it worked. Lets say you exert 500 lbs on a 500/250 setup, the 500lb pound spring moves 1 inch, and the 250 pound spring moves 2 inches for a grand total of 3 inches, 500/3=166.6666, just as his equation gives us for that situation
 

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Originally posted by coiled:
<STRONG>Holy Sh_t! I think I unleashed more than I wanted to know. Mabye what I need to know is what the spring rate on my aerostar coils are so that I can somewhat match that with some front ones that will hopefully take some of the guess work out of finding a good coil. Course the front ones are going to need to be stiffer as there is more weight on the front end. Ok so I've been thinking 3 link designs and I am thinking of the kind that has two main arms about 5 feet long like you see on broncos, but when the arms get close to the axle, they branch off into two pieces, one going to the top of the axle tube and the other going to the bottom of the axle tube. That seems like it would conctrol axle rap/pinion roll more evenly on both sides of the axle housing. I wonder if I can get away with running bushings where the tube connects to the axle tubes and then running a big ass hiem joint somewhere inside the frame rails that can rotate. Any comments? I need to know about this panhard bar placement issue. Anyone got pics of a good set up? I am already running cross over steering and it is near the horizontal plane. Thanks for the discussion.</STRONG>
This seems to be a simple effective setup, but I would use bushings at the axle mounts and a heim where the upper link coming off the top of the axle attaches to the lower link. This seems to releive some of the bind in this setup
 

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Originally posted by Gordon:
<STRONG><IMG width=490 height=367 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/samside.jpg">
This does look scarry soft, but I agree nothing wrong with coils it is just possible to be to soft for some situations</STRONG>
Holy shit that is the funniest thing i have ever seen!!!!!!!
 
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