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Which setup should I go with??

  • 700R4 to Dana 300

    Votes: 6 66.7%
  • SM420 to 3spd case

    Votes: 2 22.2%
  • 700R4 to 3spd case

    Votes: 1 11.1%

  • Total voters
    9
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's my dilema...I have a 305 TBI with 700R4...the computer controls the shifting on the trans...I was going to go with my SM420 to 3sp case since I already have all of the parts for that...my buddy who is an ASE certified mechanic for 0ver 20 years says if I use the manual trans the engine and the computer will be confused and run crappy...

I want to use the 700R4 but the adapter is way too expensive from AA...like $683 bucks...I wonder if they provide the vaseline? So here's my questions...

1. Should I go with a Dana 300 and get the following...

700R4 to Dana 300

it's alot cheaper for that adapter, plus the Dana 300 has better gearing and it's stronger that the 3spd case...I know I would need to buy a Dana 300 and I would need to run a centered rear diff...but wouldn't the Dana outlast the 3spd case, thus offsetting the cost of the 300 and rear diff?

2. Can I go with the SM420 to 3spd case without having problems with the 305's computer?

3. Should I go with the 700R4 to 3spd case...in which case I would need to find someone that would either be willing to sell me one cheaper than AA does...or is there anyone that would let me borrow an AA adapter so I can make my own?:D :D

Thanks
 

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From what I have been told you can run an automatic computer with an auto or manual trans, just not a manual comp with an auto trans. I have run a auto trans comp with an sm420 I did not notice a problem.
As for the tcase I think the 300 is better. It will be more expensive to switch to it than buying the cruiser adapter.
 

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So you have a 4l60e, the electronic 700R4... Personally, I'd run something like a NV241 and make a skid plate. Decent low range, and you'll crawl nice and slow with the auto.

OR, I'll trade ya for my 305/465/205 combo! :D
 

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First of all, if you are conserned about the computer problem, you just need to change the prom. Or, you can have someone reprogram it for you.

I personally would go the 700r4 and dana 300....you can get a D60 rear, be done with that. Down the road, if you want to toss an Atlas on, you don't need to change anything. You can also index the d 300.

What ever decision you make now, make consideration for what you may do in the future! It will make it easier on you, and possibly more marketable if you ever want to sell it.
 

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How come nobody uses the ford 9 inch???


I like the 4L60E D-300 Idea.
 

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My 350 TBI is an 87 out of an Auto-Blazer.
It runs fine. If you don't want to change the Prom,
the main difference is in how you terminate one of the
wires coming from the Tranny. At least on mine.
Debate seems to go on between several ASE type
guys (both from Chevy) as to whether or not idle mixture
is slightly off, but it runs well. Admit though, I did need
to run a cat. Anyway, mine worked with the SM465.
 

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What rfrye said... You can run a auto or a stick just have a different prom chip burned then just leave the plug that goes to the tork converter unpluged and the motor wont know any different. Or you could buy an older ECM that has no computer controled tranny.
 

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unless your engine and trans are out of a 93 or newer vehicle, the computer will not be affected what so ever. you can run any trans you want behind it.
the only thing the computer controlls on the earlier auto setups is converter lockup. and if you're gonna run a stick, just leave that plug disconnected. the computer will never know the difference!;)

hey, i get to say it again; AUTOS RULE!!!!!:flipoff2:
 

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I did a TBI conversion on my 71 FJ. When I got my parts from the wrecking yard I grabbed 2 proms. One is a 4 speed and the other a 700R4. I have an older TH350 without lockup. I figured the 4 speed prom would work better. Problem I had was mainly with it trying to idle too high in drive. Put in the prom for the automatic and it idles great (slower than the 4 speed one).

Just my $.02
 

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well, as far as buying the D60 so you'll have a centered diff, if your short of funds right now, you could always buy a mini truck rear, have the same bolt pattern as the front and be roadworthy until you get fund to swap out the front and rear. contrary to popular belief, i have bud that put a mini truck rear in his rig (even though he was told it would grenade quickly!) and wheeled VERY frequently and didn't have any problems.
 
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