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Discussion Starter #1
I hav a 4cyl. 3rd member with detroit, I put a new flange n it, I torqued the nut to what the book told me to, it was 150somthing, anyway after I torqued it I could not spin the pinnion. I loosend it and I could spin it no problem. The 3rd member was just reshimed when I purchesed it, what do you guys think is wrong with it.
 

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You should be fine. Torque it all the way, then turn it back a 1/4 turn. Should be smooth then. Be sure to stake the nut!!!!! If not, it WILL back off, and your pinion will get loose (and the gears will grenande).

The torque measure is high, because you are supposed to be crushing the sleeve. Once it's crushed, you won't get it any farther.

Someone might correct me, and say that you NEED to replace the sleeve and recrush it ANYTIME you fool with the pinion, but in this case (assuming you never really moved the pinion shaft) I don't think that is needed.
 

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Why the new flange ? Was it fawked up or just the wrong bolt pattern ? If it was the wrong bolt pattern you could of just redrilled it to the new pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
wrong bolt pattern, and I had a spare one, and did not feel like re drilling it. The front one will be redrilled.
 

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You really should replace the sleeve. If you don't have the pinion bearing preload right it could lead to premature bearing failure. My $.02:smokin:



:beer: :usa: :beer:
 

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I just had my 5.29's installed and used a toyota sleeve that does not crush. If I'm not mistaken stock parts do not invlove a crush sleeve. That way you can torque the flange on with out having to replace the crush sleeve. Double check to make sure you book is refering to the use of a crush sleeve, not the OEM sleeve.

I have always used a new crush sleeve every time I've screwed with the flange or yolk of a diff that had a cruch sleeve. For the cost of a new sleeve it's pretty cheap insurance.
 

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replace the crush sleeve or switch to a normal sleeve...
 

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Let me clarify my stance...
If you pulled the pinion shaft out, dropped the carrier, or in any way moved the internals after you pulled the pinion nut, then yes, get a new sleeve.

If it was mounted on the truck, with the axles in the diff, and you simply unscrewed the nut, swapped flanges, and rescrewed the nut, you should be fine. The tension in the diff would prevent things from moving around.
 

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Pazuzu said:
You should be fine. Torque it all the way, then turn it back a 1/4 turn. Should be smooth then. Be sure to stake the nut!!!!! If not, it WILL back off, and your pinion will get loose (and the gears will grenande).

The torque measure is high, because you are supposed to be crushing the sleeve. Once it's crushed, you won't get it any farther.
Whoa....hold on. You are way off.

First...does the third have a crush sleeve or a solid spacer. Toyota has used both, as have aftermarket installers.

If you have a solid spacer, simply replace the flange and retorque you new nut to the spec'ed torque and stake.

If you have a crush sleeve, you can replace a pinion seal by marking the pinion nut, doing the replacement and then returning the nut to the original position. Tack weld to stake the used nut in place. You absolutely do not want to hard torque a crush sleeve third. You can over tighten the bearing preload and prematurely toast the bearings.

Michael....you can keep on going and crushing the sleeve and adding ever more preload to the bearings until the bearings are wedged so tightly that you can no longer tighten the pinion nut.

Except for what I mentioned above, you cannot really tighten a crush sleeve pinion setup properly without tearing down the third member. The tighten and back a 1/4 turn might work, but will leave zero bearing preload (fine on used bearings) but how much pinion play?

Jay
 

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ROKTOY said:

If you have a crush sleeve, you can replace a pinion seal by marking the pinion nut, doing the replacement and then returning the nut to the original position. Tack weld to stake the used nut in place. You absolutely do not want to hard torque a crush sleeve third. You can over tighten the bearing preload and prematurely toast the bearings.


I was assuming that as long as he followed factory torque specs, he would have simply re-loaded the bearings, but not crushed the sleeve anymore. I *have* made some caveats since then...

Michael....you can keep on going and crushing the sleeve and adding ever more preload to the bearings until the bearings are wedged so tightly that you can no longer tighten the pinion nut.
Sure, but not if you are trying to replicate factory specs.

Except for what I mentioned above, you cannot really tighten a crush sleeve pinion setup properly without tearing down the third member. The tighten and back a 1/4 turn might work, but will leave zero bearing preload (fine on used bearings) but how much pinion play?
Jay

As I said later, assuming the diff was mounted with axles in it, taking the old flange off and replacing it should be trivial. The pinion won't move, the bearings won't loosen. But, if the diff was out (which we now know it was), he'll need to replace the sleeve.
 

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There is no pinion nut torque spec for third members using a crush sleeve.....
there is only a bearing preload spec which must be set without ring gear contact.

There is a pinion nut torque setting for solid spacer third member setup only.

Jay
 
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