[TNToy]

I hear a lot of Toyota guys talking about going to a D300 T-Case as their second transfer because they want to utilize cutting brakes, and this is most effective in front-wheel-drive, which you can't get out of the Toy T-case.

My question is for people with a similar setup: a selectable locker in the rear end and cutting brakes/line locks utilized to selectively lock one of the rear tires while the diff is open.

How much less effective is this than the full-on front-only approach? In other words, how well will the rig turn left with the right-rear tire locked in place, the other three tires pulling, and the steering wheel (obviously) at full lock?

I'm trying to decide if I should simply put a 4:1 D300 behind my current case and sell it's 4.7 gears, instead of going to a dual-toy setup and wishing for FWD to make a set of cutting brakes work.

 

[skulltoy]

In other words, how well will the rig turn left with the right-rear tire locked in place, the other three tires pulling, and the steering wheel (obviously) at full lock?

It won't turn left very well with the right rear locked:flipoff2:

 

[GPERX4]

It should turn right OK :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

 

[DSI]

it work's but not all that great, with my rear full floater i tried that a few times last year unlocking one hub quickly to make a turn, unlocking both hub's made it twice as good, but was miserably time consuming, you'd get 2 stop point's to lock/unlock the hubs to avoid 10 points...

 

[JeepTJ1062]

I might be totally off. But why not put the selectable locker in the rear, the D300 in there, and the linelock on. Then disengage the rear completely put on the linelock and then turn. It makes since in my head but I could be wrong. Damn newbie.:flipoff2:

 

[NE-RokToy]

I might be totally off. But why not put the selectable locker in the rear, the D300 in there, and the linelock on. Then disengage the rear completely put on the linelock and then turn. It makes since in my head but I could be wrong. Damn newbie.:flipoff2:

Damn newbie is right! You missed the whole point of the post being that he wants to avoid having to put a 300 in. Also why do you need a selectible locker in the rear if you have the ability to disconect it completly? Damn newbies.......

 

[TNToy]

I might be totally off. But why not put the selectable locker in the rear, the D300 in there, and the linelock on. Then disengage the rear completely put on the linelock and then turn. It makes since in my head but I could be wrong. Damn newbie.:flipoff2:

NE is right. Re-read my post. I was wodering how effective doing it *WITHOUT* the FWD option would be.

I.E. with a pair of Toy cases. You're such a dumb newbie, Newbie. :flipoff2:

 

[Lance]

Well it works good enough to win the 2002 RCAA series, as Mike Shaffer's old Samurai only had a Suzuki tcase (no way to disengage the rear) a rear ARB, and cutting brakes.... BUT..... There were times when unlocking the rear wheels would have been nice. That's why he's got an Atlas now.

 

[frankie fountain]

all pro has a toyota twin stick does this not allow front axle power transfer only

 

[Lance]

all pro has a toyota twin stick does this not allow front axle power transfer only

Nope.

 

[TTURokToy]

all pro has a toyota twin stick does this not allow front axle power transfer only

That's just to get 2wd low. Something that TNtoy has accomplished w/o a twin stick.

 

[Jaffer]

Current local consensus seems to indicate that you can get better cutting with front 2WD and individual rear wheel brakes with the the rear unlocked or ratcheting rather than 4WD with individual unlocked rear wheel brakes and the outside rear wheel pushing.

 

[4Bangler]

Seems to me that the three wheels driving will quickly overcome the one wheel "locked" with the cutting brake, maybe FWD with the rear selectable locker open and one wheel locked would work well, but what about FWD with a rear Detroit and the cuttign brake set to one wheel?

I'm spooled in the rear anyway, so the best I'll be able to do is toss the Dana 300 in FWD and lock up a rear-output mounted parking brake to lock both rear wheels.

 

[broncorob]

Lance, Mike's rig has electric line locks doesn't it? Do you see any pros or cons of using those over the manual cutting brakes? Does he have one on each corner or just the back 2?
ROb

Well it works good enough to win the 2002 RCAA series, as Mike Shaffer's old Samurai only had a Suzuki tcase (no way to disengage the rear) a rear ARB, and cutting brakes.... BUT..... There were times when unlocking the rear wheels would have been nice. That's why he's got an Atlas now.

 

[rkcrawl]

Lance, Mike's rig has electric line locks doesn't it? Do you see any pros or cons of using those over the manual cutting brakes? Does he have one on each corner or just the back 2?
ROb

Rob - Nope, at least not his old buggy. It was at ERoCC on sunday(sept 02), and he had manual turning brakes plumbed....

Jim

 

[taft]

how effective are individual cutting brakes in the rear if you have a FWD only option BUT a Detroit in the rear??
is it worthwhile doing??

thanks,
Taft

edit: Just found my answer so dont go there, i love this place!!!http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112502

:flipoff2:

 

[broncorob]

Rob - Nope, at least not his old buggy. It was at ERoCC on sunday(sept 02), and he had manual turning brakes plumbed....

Jim

Thanks Jim

 

[Jaffer]

I think 4Banger is right when he said ...

Seems to me that the three wheels driving will quickly overcome the one wheel "locked" with the cutting brake ...

That's how I'm setting up mine ...
The undriven rear Detroit should allow the inside rear wheel to stay braked and the outside rear wheel to ratchet and roll.

 

[Sundowner]

but what about FWD with a rear Detroit and the cuttign brake set to one wheel

this is going to be my situation.
can you line lock a rear wheel if you have a detroit and put the tcase in fwd? seems problematic.

 

[zags]

I have been experimenting with this setup in my Toyota. The biggest problem with it so far is that the stock rear drum brakes won't always hold the 38.5s from turning. I am using a 3/4" bore,two handle CNC cutting brake. I am currently converting the rear to 4 piston caliper, rear disk brakes. If were to start over, I would use the electric line locks because I think I could generate more brake pressure with the foot operated Master cyl. (7/8ths bore power brakes) and it is kind of a PITA hanging on the lever while you are trying to concentrate on driving. You also need to plan ahead a little to give the ARB a coulple of turns to fully disengage. If I still can't make it work to my satisfaction, its Dana 300 time.