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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the deal: I wanna go 4:1
91 YJ, 4.56, 35's, Stock 4.0

I could 4:1 my T-case for like $1000+...

I could get a D300 and get a 4:1 for $675...

I know the output is pass side, so there's either a flip kit or Chevy D44 in the works...
How much is a flip kit? Is it do-it yourself-able? (I have minimal cutting rescources)


Or...Go for the queen mutha Atlas II? They start at like $2300 right??? <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">

Basically, should I put money into the NP231, fool around with a D300, or save for years for an Atlas???
 

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The Atlas II 3.8:1 is $1820 and the 4.3:1 is $1990 from Rusty's. I think that would be my first choice because it is stronger that the dana 300. The 300 would come in second and the 231 would be way behind th rest.
 

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The flip kit for the Dana 300 is do-able your self. The flip kit is around $600, but it includes Advance twin-stick shifters and all the special tools and parts needed to do the install. All the parts will run you about $1400. Saved me about $800 on an Atlas, and it was extra strength I didn't need with a TJ on 33's.
 

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depending on how much cash you want to throw out there.. with your 4.0 you dont need an atlas... atleast for its strength..
i would go with a d300.. and get yourself a front d44.. use it as an excuse to do that job.. you'll be happier in the long run..
so think about that.. where do you see yourself in a few years.. what do you want to do.. dont buy for now.. buy for later.. do it right the first time..
 

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The 231 is aluminum, ist chain driven, the 4:1 kit is $$$, its long, it can't be twin stick, did I mention its chain driven.
 

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We make the Dana 300 Flip Kit here at Down East Offroad in N.C. The kit includes:twin stick shifter(same shifter the AtlasII uses)
2 shift rails,1 shift fork,all new seals,input bearing,detent box,2 tap and drill bit kits, 5 brass plugs,vent tube,shift fork pads, detent balls and springs, loctite, RTV and Color instruction manual w/ a speedo gear calibration chart.
The kit can be installed with common hand tools. Socket set and a hack saw or sawsall,
needed to trim the input bearing retainer.
It will bolt up to an AX-15 or NV3550 with no adaptor! You will gain 8" of rear drive shaft length over a skock NP231, and 4" over a NP231 with a S.Y.E. and 1.8" over an Atlas II. The 4:1, heavy duty rear output and the rear disk brake will work and install as normal. The kit is $695. Also no "Special" oil to use, just 80W-90 gear oil, and the speedo adaptor in the YJ's and TJ's will fit directly in the 300! Thanks Robert
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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An Atlas would be do it right do it once - the Jeep could grow pretty big around it. The downside is that you have to budget money/time/parts for new driveshafts, body tub mods, and crossmember mods. On the other hand, its worth it. I pulled my SYE/4:1 equipped 231 and sold it after I saw too many 231 breaks, mostly chain related (I do wheel with a breakage prone crowd though). The Atlas 4.3 that's in there now is just so much better overall.
 

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I agree with these guys. I don't see a point to putting $1000 into a 231 case. It's just not that strong of a case to dump that much cash into.
It's kinda like throwing low gears and a locker into a dana 35C.
GO ATLAS.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info (DEO especially).

I really don't have any plans to go much bigger than 35's and my 4:1 for a very long time, so the Atlas seems like some serious overkill to me. I know it is the proverbial "shit," but if I can get a cheap D300 and do the other stuff myself, it would be a huge gain over the NP231 (gear driven, 4:1, shorter).

The cool thing is that between a flip kit, a 4:1 and (maybe) a beefy output shaft, the majority of the case gets replaced, so I could find a drestroyed one for basically free...
 

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Originally posted by Eddie Mcstiff:
<STRONG>The Atlas II 3.8:1 is $1820 and the 4.3:1 is $1990 from Rusty's. I think that would be my first choice because it is stronger that the dana 300. The 300 would come in second and the 231 would be way behind th rest.</STRONG>
ONLY $1990? Are you sure? What is the site?
Thanks
 

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300 tera low is about 675
300 flip kit is if I remember corectly 475
www.downeastoffroad.com

and if you do it get a t case disk brake too. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Then let me know the total cost.
 

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Originally posted by crawlinTJ:
<STRONG>Does anyone have any pictures or technical data as to why the 231 is so much "worse"?

Or is it all heresay?

Thanks.</STRONG>
Not hearsay. Mine cracked twice. Always leaks.
noisy from the chain I think it grew.
Big cost for a short shaft kit. 399.00

cant wait to get rid of mine. Thank God I never had a teralow put in this pos.
 

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Originally posted by crawlinTJ:
<STRONG>Does anyone have any pictures or technical data as to why the 231 is so much "worse"?</STRONG>
Personally, I've never seen or heard of one breaking.

I dont think it's so much a matter of being worse. I think it's about getting more for your money. For instance: If someone owned a YJ, they could spend the same type of money on fully upgrading the NP231 as they would for a D44 swap, with a Dana300, 4:1 gears and twinstick.

Junkyard Wagoneer front Dana 44 = $250
Dana300 = $250
D300 4:1 = $650
Twinstick = $100

Total $950


NP231 4.1 = $950
NP231 2wd lo = $180
Fixed Yoke = =$300

Total $1430

Granted both will need new driveshaft and there might be some extra money for regearing and refurbishing the dana44.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
dude, how is rusty's so cheap? he quotes prices lower than the manufacturers themselves...

i didn't see his shipping rates, does he make it up there?

maybe just really low overhead...
 

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Is a new front driveshaft needed for the D300 flip?
 

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Originally posted by wrangler40:
<STRONG>dude, how is rusty's so cheap? he quotes prices lower than the manufacturers themselves...

i didn't see his shipping rates, does he make it up there?

maybe just really low overhead...</STRONG>
My guess would be VOLUME BUSINESS <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 
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