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nice build, are the coil buckets adjustable?? I like them..
Shoot you better change yours man since you are the man and all ...... You get the mono coil going up front yet? Man I wish I was as talented as you are racebronco....
 

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You would never guess that this board is full of rock guys . . . . .


tall trucks is kinda like water when talking with some of you buggy/rockguys on here, say either and watch the shit hit the fan, eitherscared to get you're feet wet or that big gay truck won't work on the trail, open your eyes there guys


I know the answer . . . . . . . .put a d60 in it :flipoff2:, truck looks top notch through.
 

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i really like the idea of taking the body of the frame. what are your plans for the round pipe on the top coil brackets? are you going to cut off the part of the pipe that is not inside the coil, and what is the reason for having it so long inside the coil?
 

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so when it flexs mad shit and the coil pops out of the bucket it will guide itself back in with that piesce of tub:laughing:
 

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I really like the look of this. I've been thinking about 4linking my front for a while to improve turning radius with my 44s. as it is now in certain situations the lugs hit the steering box and the leaf springs at full turn.
Its nice with just the links, frame and axles. you can clearly see how you've done it. looks great keep updating:D
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The upper links are about 3 or 4 inches from the oil pan. So the front cant go any lower without moving the motor back. Once the body goes on and cage is built I am hoping it will lower about an inch from the weight of the body and cage.

The pipe in the middle of the coil is for my bumpstops. The bumpstops will mount on the bottom of the pipe. Once the body is on and its able to move on its on...motor running and driveshafts made. I will flex it out and figure out how much up travel I have and see how long limit staps I need.

Then the top of the tube will be cut off flush with the top of the coil bucket and welded up. The top of the coil will slid up and down on the pipe when flexing out. This will keep it from poping out and you dont have to worry about bending a coil spring if it was fixed mounted to the top of the coil bucket.


yes the coil buckets are ajustable.
 

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i'd move the motor back (have the 205 centered right over the middle of your lower link mounts) and have the frame limit uptravel, not the oilpan. maybe even far enough to where the chunk on the rockwell could come up past the crank pulley. It'd give you room to bring the ride height down a little, and also help what looks like is going to be a ridiculous front driveshaft angle even at ride height, let alone drooped out.

When you do that you could also try to bring the driveline back to a somewhat level-er-ish angle. You won't need such an extreme angle if you lower the ride height. I'd clock the 205 too.

I'm kicking myself now for making a lot of mistakes the first time i built my buggy chassis. yours looks very well built, just take the time to get it to exactly where you want it before you're too far along. its a lot better at this point in the process than having you walk up to your shit with a torch and sawzall in 6 months and go to town (aka...me). the advice here is (usually) spot on. just my experience man. good luck

Paul

edit: you damn rockwell guys, nevermind the front driveshaft angle comment...
 

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Move the front axle forward, not the engine back. One of the biggest reasons for linking the front is improving the awful approach angle that these trucks have. Leaving the axle anywhere near the stock location defeats the purpose. Making it taller might improve approach, but lowering it down and moving the axle forward will accomplish the same thing with less height/lower COG.
 
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