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so unless an 05-08 60 falls into my lap for a price no one wants to sell for im probably gonna go with swaping my 44ttb into a 50ttb on my dollarstore 86 bronco cause why not people seem to be giving them away, now there are some hurdles a quick search yielded a few results but thought id make a new thread to see if anyone has some fresh ideas. 1) i need to convert the 50ttb over to coils not hard as long as theres room 2) mounting it, radius arms are no problem im already linking one ton gear in the rear so ill just by some more tube and joints for the front, but i read that the drivers side arm is to short. if i lengthen it how would i go about doing that? just cut it and add steel? or can i just use the 3/4 ton mounts and itll just all fall into place, now will using the 3/4 ton mounts limit travel at all? i plan on using some soft springs in front and softer in the rear

(sorry for the book)
 

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Both beams are shorter, the pivot mounts are closer to centerline of the truck and lower on the cross member.
There isn't really enough gain to justify the work, swap the inner assembly over on the pass side for the bigger joint and use Chevy outers if you need 8 lug.
Yes, the 50's u-joints are stronger, but not by enough to justify all that work.


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Unless you want to go fast in the desert just save up for a solid axle. The TTB is not worth your time. Assuming you're not putting it under a Jeep that weighs nothing and depending on your intended use you can only support 35s on the 44 and about 37s on the 50 before you have to drop a grand on RCV shafts.

You can make the 50 driver's beam use 44 pivot geometry by cutting them down the middle of the diff, bolting the 44 pivot end and 50 knuckle end to the same 3rd, welding them up then fish plating the living shit out of it. This has the not so nice downside of not netting any camber correction for a lift but it's dirt simple.

The passenger beam you have to graft the 50 "inner C" on which unlike bolting both to the same 3rd requires more than three brain cells to align properly so you're probably going to want to build a jig or get really creative with how you cut them so they fit together right. When you done you'll be left with a nice hybrid of both and only slightly fucked camber which you're going to correct with the cut and turn that you were gonna have to do anyway in order to compensate for the lift you're probably putting on it.

I've seen pictures of a 44-50 hybrid job where the lower part of the 50 C was just grafted onto the upper part of the 44 C. I've never taken measurements for doing it that way so I can't confirm that there isn't more work to get the geometry to work out. If it really is that simple it would be easy to do a "move the lower ball joint outboard" type of cut and turn at the same time.

Have fun :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
if i was gonna sas itd be a 60 i wouldn't wast my time on 50, do it once do it right. but i have a deadline to meet by august and its much cheaper to just do the rear and get it linked for now and either keep or modify the ttb for the first season or two. This bronco will spend much of its time out on the open beach (as i live on the Texas coastline) running around, maybe a trip now and again to marble falls or out in new mexico or deep west Texas. Then once a year itll be taken to moab and or the colorado area. my thoughts are i can get away with the ttb and 37s for a bit if i shore it up. thanks for yalls posts if yall have anymore advise id love to hear it. Gonna save up for a d60 for the future, unless this ttb just happens to work out really well
 

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The D50 center section is marginally stronger at best, and bolts into the D44 beam, so use whichever has the ideal gearset in it, and keep your D44 beams.

Swap the two center shafts from the D50 TTB into the D44 TTB, to get the 1350 series ujoint in the middle. Forget about everything else from the D50 TTB, just throw it all away.

Get a 3/4 chevy front axle (D44 or 10bolt, doesn't matter) and use that to swap the axle to 8-lug, to match your junkyard 10.25 rear axle that bolted in with (almost) no mods. Bonus is bigger calipers than the D44 TTB.


That's pretty much it. This is all old tech, 10+ years old at this point.
 

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That's pretty much it. This is all old tech, 10+ years old at this point.

sweet, i figured i wan't doin anything new. thanks for the advice this should be really inexpensive and hopefully hold up till i can put a better system in.
 

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if i was gonna sas itd be a 60...
I wouldn't do anything to the TTB except toss it. The OBS D60 bolts in. The balljoint ones (92-97) aren't that costly or hard to find. $400-700 range in my experience. Stick with 92-94 and you don't even need to open the brake system... same calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
i don't have anything against the dana 60 but im not about to go back and put leafs on it that seems silly you can get articulation with long leafs but i alreay have coils why change it, also i already have two 97 one tons 4x4 with one lifted pretty high, i don't really need another, if i find an 05 or newer d60 then i can just change the coil buckets and for the most part be on my merry way. however i like the ttb, from all ive read its not as bad as people say it is, gonna do what i was advised then cut and turn it myself its not hard, things only gonna see moab once a year the rest of the time is gonna be spent running across the beach. if after a few seasons i change my mind its not but 10 mins with a torch to cut it all out
 

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Oh coils.... I was thinking you had the leaf 44ttb (f250).

The 05+ axle lines up with ttb coil buckets ok. I did a mockup on a '88 frame before I scrapped it (frame bent).
 

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so unless an 05-08 60 falls into my lap for a price no one wants to sell for im probably gonna go with swaping my 44ttb into a 50ttb on my dollarstore 86 bronco cause why not people seem to be giving them away, now there are some hurdles a quick search yielded a few results but thought id make a new thread to see if anyone has some fresh ideas. 1) i need to convert the 50ttb over to coils not hard as long as theres room 2) mounting it, radius arms are no problem im already linking one ton gear in the rear so ill just by some more tube and joints for the front, but i read that the drivers side arm is to short. if i lengthen it how would i go about doing that? just cut it and add steel? or can i just use the 3/4 ton mounts and itll just all fall into place, now will using the 3/4 ton mounts limit travel at all? i plan on using some soft springs in front and softer in the rear

(sorry for the book)
I tend to agree with everyone here. The Dana 50 TTB isn't a huge upgrade in strength, and a Dana 60 swap would make more sense.

Having said that, I'm going to offer an opposing response, in favor of your idea.
The only reason I would say give it a try, is only if you can get the axle assembly dirt cheap or free. If you have to pay even 1/2 the price of a Dana 60, this plan isn't worth it. So if you can get an entire Dana 50 TTB for peanuts, then I say like you, why not.

The Dana 50 TTB won't have very many strength advantages over the 44 TTB in your Bronco, but there are some advantages. The "50" has a stronger ring & pinion, a stronger u-joint/slip joint in the center shafts, and Dana 60 sized spindles and hubs. You'll also get bigger brakes and stronger housings.

The Dana 50 TTB uses shorter housings, so you'll need to get the pivot brackets that go with that axle. If you plan to lift the truck, now is a good time to get the lift brackets. For that, you can probably buy just the F250 pivot brackets. Naturally, you'll have to remove the Bronco/F150 pivot brackets, and that should be no big deal.

When it comes to springs, you'll have two options. One is to go with the coils or, two, go with leafs. The Dana 50 TTB is set up for leaf springs. Personally, I would stick with the leaf springs. Heres why. It wouldn't be difficult to remove the radius arms and switch to leaf springs. All you would need to do is add the shackle mount and weld the hangers on the frame. Later, if you decided to swap to a solid axle, you can utilize the leaf springs, making a later SAS much easier.
If you want to use coils, you'll need to add the coil spring seat and weld on a large bolt for the spring capture onto each axle housing. It's not ideal, but the radius arms can be welded to the housings. I'd suggest using longer radius arms if you decided to take that route.

Ed
 

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I tend to agree with everyone here. The Dana 50 TTB isn't a huge upgrade in strength, and a Dana 60 swap would make more sense.



Having said that, I'm going to offer an opposing response, in favor of your idea.

The only reason I would say give it a try, is only if you can get the axle assembly dirt cheap or free. If you have to pay even 1/2 the price of a Dana 60, this plan isn't worth it. So if you can get an entire Dana 50 TTB for peanuts, then I say like you, why not.



The Dana 50 TTB won't have very many strength advantages over the 44 TTB in your Bronco, but there are some advantages. The "50" has a stronger ring & pinion, a stronger u-joint/slip joint in the center shafts, and Dana 60 sized spindles and hubs. You'll also get bigger brakes and stronger housings.



The Dana 50 TTB uses shorter housings, so you'll need to get the pivot brackets that go with that axle. If you plan to lift the truck, now is a good time to get the lift brackets. For that, you can probably buy just the F250 pivot brackets. Naturally, you'll have to remove the Bronco/F150 pivot brackets, and that should be no big deal.



When it comes to springs, you'll have two options. One is to go with the coils or, two, go with leafs. The Dana 50 TTB is set up for leaf springs. Personally, I would stick with the leaf springs. Heres why. It wouldn't be difficult to remove the radius arms and switch to leaf springs. All you would need to do is add the shackle mount and weld the hangers on the frame. Later, if you decided to swap to a solid axle, you can utilize the leaf springs, making a later SAS much easier.

If you want to use coils, you'll need to add the coil spring seat and weld on a large bolt for the spring capture onto each axle housing. It's not ideal, but the radius arms can be welded to the housings. I'd suggest using longer radius arms if you decided to take that route.



Ed

I agree Everything he said accept for leafs. The 8lug outers are a big advantage and the inner slips are stronger. I'm a big advocate of beams. My race truck built for the desert is on i beams, I just got done putting coilovers and extending the TTB in my explorer and we have two other ttb rigs. F250 and a bronco. All lifted. You can get them to handle and align just fine if you know what you're doing.

You already have coil buckets and radius arm brackets you can move back so you can build extended radius arms. I would simply weld the radius arms to the back of the beam to create a J beam and weld some coil retainers from ruffstuff or just a large bolt to the top of the beam. Build some positive caster into your radius arms at the beam end.

you'll need to enlarge the axle shaft window of the passenger beam quite a bit in order to get any amounts of suspension travel. The Dana 50 has a very small window.

If you put a locker in the front you'll also need to address the c-clip in the diff to keep the passenger side output axle in place.

Hers what I came up with: it's a Spring and colar set up and works great. You just can't run a dust boot at the slip shaft




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There's lots of TTB builds, but one thing I don't think anyone has tried yet is, why hasn't anyone tried to dump the radius arms and build a 4 link set up for a TTB? You'd solve the constant caster change thru high suspension travel, associated with a radius arm.

Ed
 

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There's lots of TTB builds, but one thing I don't think anyone has tried yet is, why hasn't anyone tried to dump the radius arms and build a 4 link set up for a TTB? You'd solve the constant caster change thru high suspension travel, associated with a radius arm.

Ed
its been done. still gets done. perceivable gain margins vs cost/complexity not there.
 
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