[busteddodge]

I'm putting a '77 440 in my '89 half ton. 4 speed manual, np241 t-case, 4:56 gears. Mostly for rockcrawling. 40" tires. Probably will never see over 4000 rpm.

I called around to a few cam companies today and here are their recommendations. I'm looking for advice on which would be better suited for the application. Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks.

Crane #643902
204,[email protected] 427,454 112deg. sep.

Comp #21-221-4
212,[email protected] 447,455 110deg. sep.

Isky #264 Magnum Cam(?)
214,[email protected] 450,450 108deg. sep.

Lunati #60300
208,[email protected] 454,454 112deg. sep.


I'm going to call Hughes cams too, but didn't get to that today. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks.

 

[76dodgecrew4u]

What are some other components your running (heads, pistons, exhaust) These will all play a good role in the end result of what cam your picking. Is this a stock motor you are just slapping a cam in or have you scienced it out a little. Whats the cranking pressure of the motor, valve size, ect.

 

[busteddodge]

The motor will be pretty much stock. I did get a set of 906 heads to go on it that will get a valve job. I'm going to run headers, a performer intake and a holley 670 truck avenger. It'll probably be around 8.5 to 9 to 1 as far as compression ratio goes. Oh, and what is crank pressure????

 

[Old Scout]

Take a look at Crane Hydro-Roller-Retro-fit cams.

 

[steved]

I used a Summit Racing cam in mine (they have two choices, I went less duration).

I could idle on the trail all day, never overheat (even with a two row 318 rad), and had all the snort I ever needed (enough to fry all four tires on blacktop) with a 727.

It had a very slight lope to it. Ran very good in my 86 RC.

steved

 

[tinner12002]

I would go with something in the lines of the Crane or the Lunati cams. You want to keep your duration low for low end torque. I would check the Chrysler cam selections as they have one listed as an RV cam. Your not building an all out race motor so keep it simple and it will live longer. I'm putting a 440 in my 91 and plan on using a stock cam or maybe the RV cam offered by Dodge. Just my .02

 

[busteddodge]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I know that low duration will give me more power earlier in the power band, but what do valve lift and lobe seperation have to do with how well it will perform?

What do you guys think of the companies like Hughes Engines for example that claim to take advantage of the bigger lifter in the RB's? Is it worth the extra money?

 

[Old Scout]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I know that low duration will give me more power earlier in the power band, but what do valve lift and lobe seperation have to do with how well it will perform?

What do you guys think of the companies like Hughes Engines for example that claim to take advantage of the bigger lifter in the RB's? Is it worth the extra money?

Without some head work, The extra $ on a Hughes cam wouldn't see much of a return in extra power.

It's easy to make nice power gains with a little work. Get a set of MP port templates and a good grinder:

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/5115/

 

[ddestruel]

Mopar Performance took it a long ways for most street applications thier sticks and parts will do you just fine. I would go for a mid range stick something that can spin to 6000 rpm though you may not use all 6000 rpm its nice to have a peak HP and torque range that dont start falling off early when trying to pass someone on the highway, downshift and wing those rpms. the 440 has plenty of low end and a slightly larger stick will allow you to be in the middle of the torque curve while cruising down the highway and still be able to lug it down and able to use the upper rpms also.

I like my peak torque at about 4000 rpm and peak HP around 4500 rpm with peak. with the peak torque in a 440 you can get away with the high peak number but at 2000 rpm still be within 50 ft/lbs of your peak # so then you are able to carry it all across from 2k-5k. Just my .02 but that seems to work really well towing ect. the wider the lobe seperation the wider your torque curve and smoother the idle but at the price of peak HP and torque numbers. longer duration = more air/fuel sucked in results in torque and dynamic compression and then lift = rpms IIRC but its been awhile

 

[busteddodge]

Alright. I made a decision today. That's an accomplishment in itself. I went with Hughes #HEH1019BL. Got the cam and lifter set, valve springs and a double roller adjustable timing set from them. I did a little shopping around and besides the camshaft, their prices were pretty reasonable.

Specs:
210, 219 dur. @ .050
461", 489"
112deg. seperation angle.

What do you think? They claim it's good from idle up to 4800 RPM. I don't need any more than that. I'll probably never rev above 3500 anyway.

 

[76dodgecrew4u]

I personally run Comp cams. I have had great results and they perform awesome. I ran a XE262 in my first 440 it was loaded with torque and still had legs on the highway. This next motor I'm building I'm going with a XE274 mainly because I'm running eddy heads and will be squeezing 10-1 on the compression. The cranking pressure is the cylinder pressure whne cranking the motor, this is an indicator or what the motor will be making for pressure when running. I use that number to evaluate my cams and how they will perform as related to the duration and overlap.

On your 906's make sure to install hardened exhaust seats if you want the motor to live longer on todays fuel.

 

[busteddodge]

Oh yeah. Definately got the exhaust seats done, they needed 3 guides too.


Machine shop bill: 1575.45. OUCH!

 

[Traveller]

If your cam is a little on the hot side you can add some more bottom end HP and torque by advancing your cam timing a couple of degrees. Some timing chain sets allow you to index your cam, and have multiple keyways. Otherwise you can use an offset (2%) keyway when installing your cam.

Port matching and cleaning will increase power, but you won't really notice it under 4000 RPM's. Your '77 block isn't the best foundation for a performance engine anyway, the later year big blocks had fairly thin cylinders, unless you got lucky with a heavy truck or motorhome model.

I found a nice HP2 440 in a Winnebego recently, it's surprising how many of those motorhomes got the good motors.

 

[76dodgecrew4u]

I have a 77 440 out of a New Yorker that is as thick as a standard bore 69 440 HP I have. That is like saying the earlier blocks have higher nickel content also ( only the Hemi's have higher nickel content than any other RB motors). These are common fallacies. The fact is, you never know what to expect from Ma Mopar!

 

[crashnzuk]

I have a 77 440 out of a New Yorker that is as thick as a standard bore 69 440 HP I have. That is like saying the earlier blocks have higher nickel content also ( only the Hemi's have higher nickel content than any other RB motors). These are common fallacies. The fact is, you never know what to expect from Ma Mopar!

Yup, only way to know for sure is to sonic check it, which has nothing to do with the drive-in
Travis..

 

[cragdweller]

I would hardly call that Hughes cam "a little hot".

 

[59m38a1]

i run my 383 in my cj at or above 5000 all the time you'll be suprised what the motor will have to do to get you were you want. i'm running 33 boggers for now. i have forged 0.030 over flat tops and a mild solid cam with adjustable rockers, and a single plane on propane. it's a 64 vintage 383 if that matters it's been together for 10 years and has seen it's share of on and off road. it was in my 85 cj that i dd to and from the trail for 4 years, and the trail was 2.5 hours away. i would pick a nice rv type cam without a lot of duration to keep it from overheating.

just my 0.02