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Discussion Starter #1
First, these may appear to be a relatively "inexpensive" swaps, but remember it requires X-over steering and a decent amount of fabrication. Brake lines, custom shackles, driveline changes, U-bolts, it all adds up.

On the front - 44044s. On the early trucks, if you choose to keep the front spring mounts (which you can use) - you'll be going to a longer shackle in back. This is good for lift, BAD for pinion angle. So to adjust the pinion angle, you cut and rotate the axle itelf (complete removal, strip, and tear down). Based on other posts on this board, I rotated 1.5 degrees for every inch of lift. I figured that I was lifting about 6 inches - so I needed to rotate 9 degrees. If you choose not to rotate the axle you will have a very poor pinion angle.. Probably unusable. If you rotate with shims, you'll have castor and driveabability issues.

If I could do it over again, I'd probably rotate 14 degrees or so when using the extended shackles in back. The rear shackles contribute to poor pinion angle just as much as the lift.

If you do cut and rotate your axles, you now need to pay attention to your castor. You'll need to remove the spring perches and reweld. You should do this on an absolutely flat surface and make sure that you get 3-5 degrees of castor. This is what keeps your truck from wandering all over the road.. avoid the death wobble... There is a special tool for this that's cheap. I measured my castor angle as a difference between the straight part of the frame and then angle of my spring perch. <3 degrees of castor, you may have stability issues.



Rear:

Rear isn't that bad... I didn't have to extend my driveline, the 1/2 chevy springs are very available and easy to install. I used my existing spring perches and extended shackles.

Only negative, I don't have enough lift to match the front of my truck a fter installing these

I went to an add-a-leaf (rancho, I believe) which claimed to add 1-1.5 inches. Still, not enough lift.

Solution - For me, the solution will be the add-a-leaf, and changing the rear spring perch so that it forces my shackle to a more vert angle.. I recognize that I shouldn't exceed 45 degrees or so, but there is some lift to be had here.

If I had to do it again, I'd probably look for 3in 1/2 chevy leaf springs - IE springs that have been rearched.. Block blow!!


Overall, I'm sure I've spent around $1k to do this - majority of that on the cross over steering (use the Marlin, it's stronger). That doesn't include the gear change, lockers, or wheels and tires... Remember, if you ain't gonna keep it, you're going to loose all kinds of cash on a deal like this if you go to sell it!
 

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im putting the 44044s, ott hysteer, new shackels of course, and shocks as well, so im starting fresh..

im using a junkyard hybrid pack in the rear.. if i don't like it ill buy some new alcans or allpros, or might even put the 44044 in the rear and take out a few leafs
 

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Discussion Starter #3
83toyoBC said:
im putting the 44044s, ott hysteer, new shackels of course, and shocks as well, so im starting fresh..

im using a junkyard hybrid pack in the rear.. if i don't like it ill buy some new alcans or allpros, or might even put the 44044 in the rear and take out a few leafs

Sounds like you've got a setup. Unless you're going to trailer your rig, you're going to need to cut and rotate the axles. You just need to strip the axle, have a big grinder and a BFH. You *might* be able to get away without cutting the axles if you don't run large shackles...
 

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spend 30 bucks on the tube and make a new front hanger and you wont have to worry about cutting and turning.

in the rear cut the perchs and rotate them, then spend 250 and get the allpro 5.5 rears. no blocks and wayyyy cheaper then 3.5 chevy lift springs. in fact using the all pro fronts is cheaper than the 44044's new
 

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stone said:
spend 30 bucks on the tube and make a new front hanger and you wont have to worry about cutting and turning.

in the rear cut the perchs and rotate them, then spend 250 and get the allpro 5.5 rears. no blocks and wayyyy cheaper then 3.5 chevy lift springs. in fact using the all pro fronts is cheaper than the 44044's new

wrong i paid 400 canadian even for my 44044.. it will work out to the same or more for the all pro springs.. which i may buy if i sell the caddy for a good coin...

another thing. even if i did drop my hanger down. id still have to rotate the diff.. and this thing will never see a trailer..
 

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dcg9381 said:
On the front - 44044s. On the early trucks, if you choose to keep the front spring mounts (which you can use) - you'll be going to a longer shackle in back. This is good for lift, BAD for pinion angle.



what length shackle are you using??? im planning on doing this to see if i like it before i go threw the work of putting on a new front hanger(which i have fabbed already) to my knowledge 4rnnerrick used stock with boomerang shackles and i dont believe he turned his axle?????? i plan on using the boomerang shackles from sky as well


and for the back to match the front, with my chevies i welded a 2x3 tube on the bottom of my frame so i didnt need to run a block or long shackle....my shackle is 6 inchs but havent put the 44044s up front yet to see how well it matchs check for my build up thread for pics of it
 

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Im running 44044s with a 2 inch drop box and longer shackels with no problems.After doing the swap I alligned my tires my self and figured I better take it to a shop and have them check it ( only because its a daily driver ) and the guy said he has never seen a lifted truck that was perfect, but mine was he didn't beleave that I aligned it my self, it was the first time Ive ever attempted to allign my truck, but it was real easy.Ive been running it for a year now ( rubicon,and fordice ) and my tires are wearing perfect 36 sx's, thats with alot of street driving. so I think rotating the axle is over-rated,I have no steering stableizer, no wobble and if I let go of the wheel it tracks straight. :smokin: Just my experience
 

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how long of shackle are you running rock hoppa??? where in nor cal are you, maybe i could take a look at your setup???
 

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In my rig I am running 4" Alcans, stock hanger, a 1.5" longer than stock front shackle, perch redrilled to move axle 1" forward, center pin 1" forward vs. stock, single case, 33" BFG M/T's, no shims, no turning knuckles or otherwise (lot's of things to screw up fron end geometry and pinion angle). The only issue that I have with my rig is that the tires don't retun to center after turning as quickly as they did prior to me moving the axle up toward the front of the spring, and that is minor.
 

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in your first post u said your running 44044, now you say your running 4" al cans

which one is it?

can i get a pic of your front hanger

also can you masure how for apart inside to inside your hanger is?
 

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stone said:
spend 30 bucks on the tube and make a new front hanger and you wont have to worry about cutting and turning.
If you use the stock location you don't have the huge rock anchor on the front like a drop hanger. Yeah, the pinion angle sucks, but you can cut and rotate like said. I beefed my stock ones and the factory welds all around the cross member and they're still on there 4 years later. The higher you can get the front mount, the less you'll hang up.
 

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hey rock pm me your number and ill get in touch with ya, im doin all this shit to my rig and ive yet to see 44044s on a rig, kinda nice to see the setup first hand
 
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