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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hows the geometry look? tips, pointers and remarks welcome:D
gimme the geometry comments....its tacked in place, things can change by an inch or two...hows roll axis, does anti squat look in check...

the axle will actually compress a little when it sits on my truck, the straps strech...

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
lowers are poly at the axle, 7/8" heims at the frame crossmember, uppers will be poly at the frame and heims at the axle......

its 1.75" .250wall dom.....lowers are 47" long, uppers are about 36". vert sep at the axle is ~10" and the lowers mount at axle centerline. vert sep at the frame mounts will be ~8" although the mounts are about a foot away from eachother...
 

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wow, I never knew that Oakdale and Campbell used the same

brown recylcing containers! neat.

--Sherpa
 

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pictures look nice. I have no idea on how it will work.

nice tube bends though. I'm using 1.75 x .375 DOM for

my links. that stuff is heavy..................

--Sherpa
 

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it looks good are you going to keep the eliptic or go to coils or coil overz



i think the bent links are better keeps every thing tucked up there
 

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soopatoy,

it was a joke. based on his info of him drawing pics on the

net while others are wheeling. I happen to be at "work"...

pretty much doing nothing, getting paid to do nothing is

nice.


--Sherpa
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SHERPA said:
wow, I never knew that Oakdale and Campbell used the same

brown recylcing containers! neat.

--Sherpa
jackass:flipoff2: :D

nozuk, im keepin the leave$, ever $ince the baby was born it$ gotta come from the junkyard or i gotta make it :p

sos, i was measuring eye2eye...

wheres all the suspension gurus and engineering types to gimme a thrashing???

when measuring the verticle seperration at the frame(or refering to it)on disimilarr length control arms where do you measure?
 

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Hey booger, I like the whole 1/4 elliptical thing and how you mounted it. I have a question, as I'm not fully certain of how you actually mount a 1/4 elliptical. On the axle, I see a shackle that the spring mounts too. Are both ends of the shackle free, or is the bottom mount solid? Thanks. I really want to go 1/4 elliptical, it seems like to me, from my research, a better way to go than coils/coilovers/airbags, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
its just a factory shackle with rubber bushings, but i jhave some heims to build a swivel shackle mount so the main leafs dont get twisted up to terrible on droop...
 

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Booger Weldz said:

wheres all the suspension gurus and engineering types to gimme a thrashing???
Nice bends in the links......

If there is room which it looks like there might not be I would look at going a little taller on the upper axle link mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
PIG said:


Nice bends in the links......

If there is room which it looks like there might not be I would look at going a little taller on the upper axle link mount.
plenty of room after the frame gets wacked off, thanks...........:)
 

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Rough guess at the roll axis in the pic below in red.

Looks pretty good to me, but as Pig said, getting the upp link about 5-10 degrees closer to level would move the instant center closer to the CG - mkae the suspension more neutral when it comes to squat/antisquat, unless my thinking cap is on backwards again.

You do realize that if the upper links are shorter than the lowers, the pinion will rotate DOWN as the suspension droops, right? That's definitely something to take into consideration, because the rear u-joint may bind if the whole axle droops a whole lot.

Running a center limit strap to stop the axle just before the joint binds may be nessecary with that design, and it may not. If you can make the upper closer in length to the lower link, the effect will be lessened considerably... but before you go to the trouble of making one like the green line below, put your current link in and see how much the pinion moves as the axle drops straight down. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
RightPedal said:
Rough guess at the roll axis in the pic below.

Looks pretty good to me... you do realize that if the upper links are shorter than the lowers, the pinion will rotate DOWN as the suspension droops, right?
ive got a strap to limit complete axle droop(thus pinion angles)....i think the roll axis will sit a little taller up front as the lowers would converge farther forward(they are 11" apart at that mmount...
 

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Booger Weldz said:
I've got a strap to limit complete axle droop(thus pinion angles)....i think the roll axis will sit a little taller up front as the lowers would converge farther forward(they are 11" apart at that mmount...
Just making sure on the limit strap. Binding u-joints = bad. :flipoff2:

You're right about the roll axis, then. Didn't think the lowers were that far apart under the t-case. But that nice, practically flat roll axis is the neat thing about the XX link design. Flat roll axis = practically nonexistent rear steer. :)
 

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Booger Weldz said:


ive got a strap to limit complete axle droop(thus pinion angles)....i think the roll axis will sit a little taller up front as the lowers would converge farther forward(they are 11" apart at that mmount...
YES, booger............... That is good. Just try and keep that rll center as high as possible.
 

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It don't look like to me the springs you have will hold up..Look to long and thin..:flipoff2: it might be the super flex machine, But only wheeling will tell..good luck on your Project..
 
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