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4runner rear window

2K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  youngladdy 
#1 ·
How can I go about tracing a problem with my 4runners rear window? The motor works fine (can be connected directly to battery and goes up/down) I have to check the "switches" on the tailgate to see that are opening/closing properly.
Where do I go after this? I am terrible with circuits, but where would I start if it was a faulty ground or wire somewhere?

This is on a '85 4runner
 
#2 ·
are all the bolts in the top? 1 of them activate the switch...so when you remove the top, you cant roll the window up. AND make sure the gate is closed completely. theres switches in each latch.

for awhile one side of mine wasnt latching, and it wouldnt work.
 
#4 ·
All bolts are in, and the tailgate feels latched securely (doesn't move in/out)

I will check out the link in a minute.

How can I power the window up/down? Can I use the 2 wires directly off the motor? It would be a lot easier to work on if it is able to go up/down...

Thanks
 
#5 ·
Looked at roger browns site and it helped a bit. Figured out how to power the window up/down by jumping to a battery (duuuh!)

When the glass is up and tailgate closed, is it only locked? or unlocked?
I'm asking because when I have the glass up the lock won't move positions. But when I powered down the window (jumper to battery) and the glass all the way down the lock moves freely.

All the connectors and wires in the tailgate look okay...I haven't used a test light yet to test the connectors...doing that tomorrow morning.
 
#7 ·
Okay, that confirms my question regarding the lock.

Has anyone wired a switch directly from the motor to the battery, bypassing all the safety switches, etc. ? I'm moving in a few days so it would be nice to have a temporary fix.

Otherwise I don't know what the problem is, unless all the connectors are too dirty inside to connect the circuit. I'll keep plugging away at it today.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Has anyone wired a switch directly from the motor to the battery, bypassing all the safety switches, etc. ? I'm moving in a few days so it would be nice to have a temporary fix.
Regardless of a temporary fix, this is one of the best things I've ever done to make life easier. If you intercept the wires going from the motor up front(through the cover that hides the rear window washer fluid-either that or inside the hole at the rail where you remove the plastic), you can splice into it and put in a button like this. The reason for this is so when you're sleeping and have to go to the bathroom, you don't have to mess with the keys to get out of the truck. It works 100% of the time. If the motor works(like you said it did) this will work.

When you say it won't work, do you mean the switch at the console or the key switch at the rear?

(With the lock, it automatically puts it into lock position anytime you roll up the window. You can't unlock it until the window is all the way down again.)
 
#8 ·
For a temporary fix, you could do as you say. I have a 4Runner parts vehicle that I took a couple alligator clips and connected them to the motor and dropped down and out of the bottom of the tailgate. If I want to open the back I take my battery charger out there, connect it to the alligator clips, plug it in, and wind the window down or back up.
 
#10 ·
Both the key and the console switches don't work. The motor works fine while connected directly with the battery.

I tried to wire a switch (mom. switch: up, neutral, down) so I could move the window. What I did is run power from battery (spare batt. I sat in the back beside the tailgate, to test it) to the switch power. Then run both wires from the motor to the switch, one on "up" and the other on "down" (exactly as I imagine the factory switch is) then I have the battery grounded to the same ground as the wires are on the tailgate.

This does not work for me. I put an inline fuse (30amp) to protect the switch and it keeps blowing the fuse. There is not short in the wires (I used both a long cord which was going to be installed in the truck, and a short set of wires) and switching didn't make a difference. I don't know why when I add in the switch it doesn't move the window. It momentarily attempts to move the window, then it blows the fuse.

Any ideas why? When we took out the fuse we melted the wire (tooo hot).

Suggestions? I don't understand why this system I have isn't working!
 
#11 ·
yota up,
I like your idea, and I was planning to mount my switch rig-up in a similar spot, but closer to the front so I could access it if I was outside of the truck also (reach in to back of truck through drivers door and hit switch...)

Thanks
 
#13 ·
i rewired my rear window motor to a DPDT switch in the center console. i used a 30A self resetting circuit breaker and no relay.
i made a small stainless cover pannel and removed all the un used switches. it has worked flawlessly for the past 1+yr.
 
#14 ·
Is the DPDT switch the same as a polarity reversing switch? The switch I bought (up-neutral-down) didn't work because it didn't reverse the polarity like it needs to. I think my problem will be solved if I buy a polarity reversing switch... does that sound right?

Currently, since I moved last week, I ran a set of insulated wires from the tailgate, under the truck, then to the battery. When I roll it down I touch one to neg. and one to pos. and vice-verse for rolling it up.

I need a switch though...
 
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