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noob
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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone running 4x4 labs histeer kit? Would love to see pics and hear from people who have been using it about their experience.
 

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I have mine with a high pinion diff and 1 ton steering ends. It clears the diff by a 1" or so, cutting and turning the knuckles could easily put it into the diff, if you have a lp front though no worries.

Other then that it hits my oil pan when the suspension bottoms. Surprisingly enough my oil pan bent my 1.25" .250 wall DOM tie rod and my oil pan is unscathed other then removing some dirt/oil mix off the bottom.

I like it, but for the price of the kit i would go with trail gears 6 stud knuckles and arms for sure.
 

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noob
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Discussion Starter #3
if you had your motor moved back say 6" and you were running 5" springs do you think it would still hit?
 

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I'm running it on my 90 runner. Love it, no problems. I've got 7 inches between my oil pan and my steering.
 

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I have it on my buggy and it worked out great for me, my pitman arm clears my axle by less that 1/4" so I had to have my tie rod behind the axle. With the axle and motor in the stock locations I could see some major oil pan clearance issues, my axle is about 1" forward of the front of the crank pully so I have plenty of room. My setup was custom made to my specs and took a couple of tries to get right but in the end they took care of it which is what really matters.
 

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Not a Wenzelite
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if you had your motor moved back say 6" and you were running 5" springs do you think it would still hit?
It's probably a foregone conclusion that you'll move your motor back 6".
It's a safe bet you'll be running 5" springs.

It's still up in the air if you'll have the behind-the-axle steering arms.


Move the motor back 6"
Mount the springs.
Hang an axle housing.

Check if the arms will hit the oil pan. If they will, buy others. If they won't, buy these.
 

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It's probably a foregone conclusion that you'll move your motor back 6".
It's a safe bet you'll be running 5" springs.

It's still up in the air if you'll have the behind-the-axle steering arms.


Move the motor back 6"
Mount the springs.
Hang an axle housing.

Check if the arms will hit the oil pan. If they will, buy others. If they won't, buy these.

x2 if the rig is low it won't clear imho, my steering eats the frame rails on compression as is.
 

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The only reason i would run this kit is if you have clearance issues up front, i bought it used and got it about as cheap as a normal high steer kit but with 1 ton ends or id have a regular set up.

I could not tell you if it would hit or not, take some pictures and i will give you my best opinion. But have no fear, them 22r oil pans are tough. :mr-t:
 

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I run the 4x4Labs setup, with rears up front and 40's. It hits like none other when you hit a whoop. I believe i have about 3-4" of lift and the oil pan is really dented and self cleaenced. I also changed to a 2 wheel drive pan thinking that it would let the tie rod just clear the back of the pan because the bulge of the oil sump is a little bit towards the middle, but it still hits. If you buy one of the TrailGear hydro assist setups you will have to make a different bracket to attach to the housing on the back side of the axle. Basic synopsis: i don't know if it is worth all the trouble to get the tie rod behind the axle (assuming the motor is in the stock position). I got the steering because it was cheaper than a regular high steer.

Joey
 

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If your going to put just enough lift to clear 33's, then this isn't the set up for you. But if your going to do a decent size lift then you shouldnt have a problem.
 

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Decent sized lift is 3" or less :flipoff2:
Really:confused: Decent for what, being able to get over the parking blocks at the mall:D
 
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