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I'd like to tap into the knowledge base here if I could, with a little bit different project.

I have a JK build that I'm ripping all the factory wiring out of. In it's place will be a new (simple) chassis harness from Painless. Wheel speed sensors, ABS, Jeep ECU, TIPM, dash, cluster, column, all going away.

Going in is a LS3 crate/6l90/Hero3spd w/vss tail. ECU is a E38. Obviously, the drivetrain will be stand alone.

I have a few questions:

*If I want cruise control, is there anything else I need? As I understand it, GM has cruise tied into the brakes and speedo some how. This is driving my confusion.

*Tap shift. That's just between the E38 and TCM correct? I'd just need a switch to send the tu/td signal?

* Stand Alone harness. I see a dizzying amount of harnesses out there and know nothing about the companies. Hell, even Painless makes a harness, and a chassis/engine combo, but I don't see the 6l80/90 as an option.

Can you guys recommend a harness brand? Any members on Pirate making harnesses that would fit my needs?
I've just been through this with a Gen IV. Unfortunately, the Gen IV cruise control goes through the body control module (BCM) and is not as easy to hook up cruise control. I ended up buying the module from Speartech, as that was the only one I could find.

I actually went with speartech for everything. Expensive, but one stop shopping. My only issue is there was not a starter wiring circuit in the harness, so we had to build that separately. Not sure why this is, but it wasn't on the wiring diagram so I assume it wasn't a mistake. Not a lot of extra work, but if I did it again I would order it with the wiring incorporated.

As for tap shifting, I had to remove my TCM and send it in with my E38 ecm to get the tap shifting activated. I believe they need to reprogram to a corvette tune that doesn't send tap shift through the BCM.

No tow-haul mode available on these Gen IV conversions either, at least not from speartech and not yet.

Mine should be startable this weekend, finishing up the wiring. No reason to think it won't work from the wiring front, and I was very impressed with the speartech quality. Since they did the harness, programming, etc. I also have one place to turn to if things aren't working.
 

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AC drier

Anyone have suggestions for an AC drier that works well for these conversions? I read somewhere that the Jeep OEM can be mounted on its side, but never heard it from someone actually using it. As mine needs to be replaced anyway, there is no need to use OEM. Any other options that are small, maybe mount on the inside of the fender? Other thoughts, pics? thanks
 

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I've just been through this with a Gen IV. Unfortunately, the Gen IV cruise control goes through the body control module (BCM) and is not as easy to hook up cruise control. I ended up buying the module from Speartech, as that was the only one I could find.

I actually went with speartech for everything. Expensive, but one stop shopping. My only issue is there was not a starter wiring circuit in the harness, so we had to build that separately. Not sure why this is, but it wasn't on the wiring diagram so I assume it wasn't a mistake. Not a lot of extra work, but if I did it again I would order it with the wiring incorporated.

As for tap shifting, I had to remove my TCM and send it in with my E38 ecm to get the tap shifting activated. I believe they need to reprogram to a corvette tune that doesn't send tap shift through the BCM.

No tow-haul mode available on these Gen IV conversions either, at least not from speartech and not yet.

Mine should be startable this weekend, finishing up the wiring. No reason to think it won't work from the wiring front, and I was very impressed with the speartech quality. Since they did the harness, programming, etc. I also have one place to turn to if things aren't working.
Thank you Sir,

I ended up getting a stand alone harness from PSI.

For the cruise control, they recommended the Dakota Digital module. It takes signals from the vss, brake switch and cruise controller, then ties into the gas peddle wiring. I'm assuming that's how they all work. I found 3 places making modules for cruise, Dakota Digital, Speartech and Hotrod Therapy.

Good to know tap shift is just between the ECM and TCM. Only thing being needed is the switch to do the tapping so to speak. I have a brand new E38 and the trans is out of a truck, so both will have to go for programing anyway.

I'm just ecstatic to be getting rid of all the factory wiring. That shit is a nightmare. JK's would be great Jeeps if it wasn't for the electrical system.
 

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Thank you Sir,

I ended up getting a stand alone harness from PSI.

For the cruise control, they recommended the Dakota Digital module. It takes signals from the vss, brake switch and cruise controller, then ties into the gas peddle wiring. I'm assuming that's how they all work. I found 3 places making modules for cruise, Dakota Digital, Speartech and Hotrod Therapy.

Good to know tap shift is just between the ECM and TCM. Only thing being needed is the switch to do the tapping so to speak. I have a brand new E38 and the trans is out of a truck, so both will have to go for programing anyway.

I'm just ecstatic to be getting rid of all the factory wiring. That shit is a nightmare. JK's would be great Jeeps if it wasn't for the electrical system.
Yes, Speartech does it the same way. Probably the same module.

I am going to use the now defunct cruise control up/down thumb switch on my steering wheel for the tap shift. Lots of options. Speartech also stocks the chevy malibu shifter with the tap shift button integrated. Not sure how well that wold work into the JK console.

I was happy to do away with the LJ wiring as well. Modified but kept the cab wiring, but everything in the engine bay is now Blue Sea waterproof, and much simpler with the Jeep computer out of the picture. I can only imagine how much worse it is in the canbus JK. Good luck to you.
 

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Yes, Speartech does it the same way. Probably the same module.

I am going to use the now defunct cruise control up/down thumb switch on my steering wheel for the tap shift. Lots of options. Speartech also stocks the chevy malibu shifter with the tap shift button integrated. Not sure how well that wold work into the JK console.

I was happy to do away with the LJ wiring as well. Modified but kept the cab wiring, but everything in the engine bay is now Blue Sea waterproof, and much simpler with the Jeep computer out of the picture. I can only imagine how much worse it is in the canbus JK. Good luck to you.
Cruise will be controlled through this Rostra switch which will be mounted on the console.



Will be using a Winters shiifter, but tap shift will be done through Twist Machine paddles tied into the stand alone engine harness.

 

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Ok so!! Got the Jeep going down the road without too much issue. When i first installed and added fluid to the Land Cruiser slave cylinder that the AA bellhousing calls for, it leaked right past the piston onto the floor. I bled it thinking the pressure energized seal might not have sealed quite right, which seemed to work. It held pressure fine. After getting about 150 miles on it, the clutch quit working. It is fairly close to my exhaust, so some heat might have done it in. I will be getting a new one installed this evening.

I have three engine related issues, the first having to do with the o2 sensors. I bought Bosch o2 sensors before learning they do not agree with the GM PCM very well. I have purchased bosch o2 sensors for everything i have ever owned, so i didnt think twice about it this time. It popped a code for both o2 sensor heater circuits. After some research, it seems that the bosch heater coil doesn't give the correct feedback resistance to the PCM. I have purchased two brand new OE/AC Delco sensors that will be installed this evening.

My second engine related issue is code P0507, which is a fault stored for engine RPM above specified. I cleaned the throttle body, but did not remove the IAC to do so, so i will be removing it again to be sure it is clean. I will also be checking for vacuum leaks.

My third issue is lifter tick. It comes on hard after around 20min of driving. I have added a small amount of Marvels to the oil in hopes to clean up that noise, but has anyone else solved this issue besides new lifters?
 

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Every state is different when it comes to emissions, so without more information, it is going to be difficult to help you. We would want to know what Jeep you are swapping, what state you are living in, etc.

From what i recall (dont quote me on this), the most stringent states like Cali require the Jeep to have a swap engine from the same year of your jeep or newer vehicle. The thought here is that it will have no worse of an emissions system on it than it did when it left the Jeep factory. I also recall it being stated that it must retain all of the emissions equipment from the swap vehicle. Im sure others can speak to it better, but thats the gist.
 

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Wait now I live in Montrose Colorado wow I don’t need emissions for the jeep but I am thinking about moving to Washington state where I will need omissions so I’m trying to thi wait now I live in Montrose Colorado wow I don’t need omissions for the jeep but I am thinking about moving to Washington state what I will need emissions so I’m trying to find out what I would need for the engine to become a emission legal in the state. The Jeep is a 2001 tj and the Engine is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 5.3 L LS
 

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@Lsbluejeep, It will depend on which county you are moving to in Washington. Some such as Clallam do not require any emission testing. Others such as King or Snohomish do require testing. Those that do require testing vary in their test methods. Some still do the sniffer test in the tail pipe, most however hook up to your OBDII port and check for SES codes. I have heard some even check to see if you have your CATS omitted from your PCM. I have cats on my exhaust ('04 Ruby / '06 5.3L) and for now have my post cat o2's turned off in the PCM and it passed.
 

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Okay I hate asking for help. But looking for some suggestions.

I previously had a stock lm7 (05 5.3). Engine Temps initially I had trouble controlling. After going with the flexalite radiator and fan (tj specific for LS swap) lowering my winch, and closing in the gaps at the top of the radiator along with a 18* tstat. It was manageable and I had no real issues.

I switched to a 6.0 10.5:1 mild build (has about 1k miles on it now) Cooling system exactly the same. Now it shoots right to 210, acts like that's when the tstat opens. Drops to 205-6 then heats up to 210-212 camps out there. Daily driving for the most part it stays right in that 206-214 range. If I start getting into it it heats up past that and takes awhile to cool down. I verified the Temps right, short of installing a mechanical gauge. New T-stat / sensor/ no harness or wiring issue/ even tried a different ecm.

My next "step" is mounting a Tauras fan. The flexalite has never seemed to pull a ton of air. Sealed good against the radiator. Just feel it's lacking in the cfm. Otherwise I'm gonna have to get a larger universal radiator and make it fit. Trying to avoid that. I can't fit taller or thick radiator. Only a wider one. Any opinions suggestions?
 

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Okay I hate asking for help. But looking for some suggestions.

I previously had a stock lm7 (05 5.3). Engine Temps initially I had trouble controlling. After going with the flexalite radiator and fan (tj specific for LS swap) lowering my winch, and closing in the gaps at the top of the radiator along with a 18* tstat. It was manageable and I had no real issues.

I switched to a 6.0 10.5:1 mild build (has about 1k miles on it now) Cooling system exactly the same. Now it shoots right to 210, acts like that's when the tstat opens. Drops to 205-6 then heats up to 210-212 camps out there. Daily driving for the most part it stays right in that 206-214 range. If I start getting into it it heats up past that and takes awhile to cool down. I verified the Temps right, short of installing a mechanical gauge. New T-stat / sensor/ no harness or wiring issue/ even tried a different ecm.

My next "step" is mounting a Tauras fan. The flexalite has never seemed to pull a ton of air. Sealed good against the radiator. Just feel it's lacking in the cfm. Otherwise I'm gonna have to get a larger universal radiator and make it fit. Trying to avoid that. I can't fit taller or thick radiator. Only a wider one. Any opinions suggestions?
When I rebuilt by 5.3 with a Texas speed cam and flat top pistons for more compression I instantly noticed it was running hotter. I tried a bigger fan, bigger radiator and I didn't notice much of a difference. It would stay around 210 as long as I didn't beat on it for a while. I then switched to a JK fan set up with a MUCH better shroud than I had and it made a noticeable difference. Still would get hot when I hammered down for long periods of time but nothing that concerned me. I now have a dual derale fan set up that will push 3750 cfm but I have yet to test it out


Edit:
Running on the lean side will make it run hotter as well. Did you replace injectors or are they still the factory 6.0 ones?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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When I rebuilt by 5.3 with a Texas speed cam and flat top pistons for more compression I instantly noticed it was running hotter. I tried a bigger fan, bigger radiator and I didn't notice much of a difference. It would stay around 210 as long as I didn't beat on it for a while. I then switched to a JK fan set up with a MUCH better shroud than I had and it made a noticeable difference. Still would get hot when I hammered down for long periods of time but nothing that concerned me. I now have a dual derale fan set up that will push 3750 cfm but I have yet to test it out


Edit:
Running on the lean side will make it run hotter as well. Did you replace injectors or are they still the factory 6.0 ones?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
It's on the fat side. I prefer to be safe. I did replace the injectors with larger. As well I run an afr gauge in my dash to make sure I don't lean it out.
 

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I am running a cheapie ebay v8 wrangler radiator with a Volvo 2spd electric fan mounted on it. My temps are spot on so far. It hasnt been too hot here just yet, so will report back, but it sounds like you need a better fan. From what i remember, people compare the Volvo fan to the Taurus fan.

edit: i am running this fan.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1034031-whats-better-than-ford-taurus-fan-taurus-fan-better-application.html
Ebay radiator built in Michigan?

I had tried to fit a Volvo fan prior. It was to thick.
 

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Ah, ok. I am using Novak's mounts and stuffed the engine into the firewall using the rear-most hole on their mount plates so i had plenty of room to stick a fan. The radiator was from a vendor on ebay called "4wdplaza". It was 105 bucks and comes with a 3yr warranty. Actually quite a nice piece, except for the radiator cap. I tossed it and used the factory one.
 

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Okay I hate asking for help. But looking for some suggestions.

I previously had a stock lm7 (05 5.3). Engine Temps initially I had trouble controlling. After going with the flexalite radiator and fan (tj specific for LS swap) lowering my winch, and closing in the gaps at the top of the radiator along with a 18* tstat. It was manageable and I had no real issues.

I switched to a 6.0 10.5:1 mild build (has about 1k miles on it now) Cooling system exactly the same. Now it shoots right to 210, acts like that's when the tstat opens. Drops to 205-6 then heats up to 210-212 camps out there. Daily driving for the most part it stays right in that 206-214 range. If I start getting into it it heats up past that and takes awhile to cool down. I verified the Temps right, short of installing a mechanical gauge. New T-stat / sensor/ no harness or wiring issue/ even tried a different ecm.

My next "step" is mounting a Tauras fan. The flexalite has never seemed to pull a ton of air. Sealed good against the radiator. Just feel it's lacking in the cfm. Otherwise I'm gonna have to get a larger universal radiator and make it fit. Trying to avoid that. I can't fit taller or thick radiator. Only a wider one. Any opinions suggestions?

Do you already have a High Flow Pump? Made a huge difference for me.
 
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