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Do you already have a High Flow Pump? Made a huge difference for me.
A huge difference for the better? I ask because so many people say the high flow pumps don't work. The theory being that the water is moving too fast to absorb heat. I've ready about many and talked to a few people in person that put on a high volume pump, then removed it after a short time and went back to a normal pump.
 

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A huge difference for the better? I ask because so many people say the high flow pumps don't work. The theory being that the water is moving too fast to absorb heat. I've ready about many and talked to a few people in person that put on a high volume pump, then removed it after a short time and went back to a normal pump.
I can almost guarantee that is directly correlated to coolant capacity. Low coolant capacity + high flow pump = bad. High fluid capacity + high flow pump = better cooling

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I can almost guarantee that is directly correlated to coolant capacity. Low coolant capacity + high flow pump = bad. High fluid capacity + high flow pump = better cooling

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Do you have more than just a radiator and engine? Like a rear-mounted radiator, or a tank that holds extra fluid in the system? I think most people in this thread have similar V8 conversion radiators and a small overflow tank (that doesn't matter for normal use anyway).
 

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Do you have more than just a radiator and engine? Like a rear-mounted radiator, or a tank that holds extra fluid in the system? I think most people in this thread have similar V8 conversion radiators and a small overflow tank (that doesn't matter for normal use anyway).
I still have a front mount radiator but it's much larger than the stock one. The only thing left of my TJ grill is the front shell, the rest had to be trimmed away to fit the radiator.

I do not have a high flow pump though, my comment was just based on the thoughts that came into my head when I read your post and that's what made sense to me.

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A huge difference for the better? I ask because so many people say the high flow pumps don't work. The theory being that the water is moving too fast to absorb heat. I've ready about many and talked to a few people in person that put on a high volume pump, then removed it after a short time and went back to a normal pump.
I have the cheaper radiator. I used to consistently see temps north of 210F while driving around sanely, higher if I was abusing the skinny pedal. The steam port is in the wrong location and the fill cap is on the High Pressure side instead of the Low(or medium since this is a cross flow). I was convinced I needed to upgrade my radiator, having used a flex-a-lite in another vehicle. A friend of mine with a SBC CJ installed a high flow water pump in his rig and it solved his cooling issues. The pump being much lighter on the pocket book then a quality radiator(not bashing Superior) I decided to give it a try. Now I am steady at 186F all day long. On hot days(80+), if stuck in traffic I see the water temp creep up to 192F. I say "hot days" loosely as I live in Washington State and we don't see temps like Phoenix or Las Vegas, and if we are real lucky Summer falls on a weekend.
 

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I have a holley water pump for a specific upper hose outlet.
Not all High Volume pumps are created the same, especially in the lower RPM range where Jeeps need it. Which may be why some people have not noticed a difference between stock and high flow. It could be that my stock pump was worn out and any new pump would have made the difference. If your interested Flowkooler may be able to upgrade your pump.
 

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To be honest I never looked to see if the holley was a std flow or high flow. I just needed the specific position of the upper neck. I'll have to go look. This same pump (literally) was on the 5.3 L.
 

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Looking to decode this information on my 5.3L engine - any help?



Picture is from the rear Driver's Side of the block.

I know a few things:
5.3L (I confirmed dished pistons)
Cable Throttle
I was told it was from an 03 Tahoe - this is actually one thing that I'd like to confirm by decoding the block stamp
 

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Got the taurus fan installed..... Took it for a spirited ride and never seen above 212 on low or high levels n the fan. Not a solid comparison given ambient Temps. At idle it'll sit on 210-212 indefinitely. If I bump idle to 1200-1500 rpms though temp drops to 202-204. Wonder if a better flowing water pump would help after all. Question is, does anybody offer a high volume drop in pump for the LS housings?


Been fighting with muffler quietness as well. Went to a 3" in/out Hush power is also way better below 2500 rpms. Above it's annoying lol, cackles
 

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Alright, so the jeeps been running for a couple weeks now so id like to give a general overview of my build for other future reference now that i know everything i assembled works well together. I added comments where i felt necessary. I solved the puzzle for a lot of Advance Adapter and/or Novak's high cost "conversion" parts.
-5.3 LM7
-Novak engine mounts. These went exactly where they said they would in the instructions. I went with the rearmost hole in the engine mount plates, just as the instructions say.
-Novak trans mount. Using this in the lowest position, the heads were really tight to the firewall. If i were to do it again, i would still place the engine brackets where Novak says to, just use the center hole on the mounting plate to bring it forward a tad. I wanted to stuff it as far back as possible to make the shifter easier to modify.
-Novak/Sanderson headers. These are nice pieces. I used Felpro gaskets with them with no problem. I had to trim the drivers side upper control arm mount on the frame to clear the header.
-Dual 2.25" pipes, drivers in front of sump and merges with the passenger side underneath the clutch slave. Single 3" high flow cat to single in/out 3" magnaflow XL muffler. 3" tailpipe was a little tight, but doable.
-Powermaster 9509 starter. This is required to fit in the small space alotted with the above headers. Had a small issue with the ign terminal on it and sent it back for repair at no cost.
-Stock NV3550
-Advance Adapters bellhousing 712591V. The instructions could be better but they get the job done. The [throwout] bearing retainer needs to be shortened. I did so with an angle grinder and it was no issue. Requires old land cruiser clutch slave. Initially bought Centric 13844410. That one leaked right off the bat. Thought it was OK after bleeding but left me stranded. Ordered its Beck Arnley equivalent. MUCH nicer and works great.
-NFW1050 flywheel. Supposedly can use the stock flexplate bolts. I used 12.9 bolts designed for a standard LS1 flywheel.
-Luk 04064, 12" clutch from a 1986 Chevy pickup with a 5.7.
-National 614014 Throwout Bearing.
-The pilot bearing that was in the AA bellhousing kit.
-Ebay wrangler V8 swap radiator. Upper hose is part of a standard 5.3 truck upper with a small adapter to the rad upper neck. Lower is a a Dayco 71904. Lower is for a 1995 or so Ford Explorer with a 5.0.

One pointer i have is to buy an engine with the matching wiring harness, PCM, pedal & TAC (if applicable) and make sure you get the corresponding o2 sensors (or at least their part numbers). I started with a van harness, which led to a o2 sensor issue at the end of the day. I had to swap the pigtails to the truck style and get truck sensors that corresponded to my tune. To go a tad more in depth, i was getting codes for "02 heater circuit resistance". Turns out that the van sensors carry a different heater circuit resistance to the truck sensors.

The issue i am currently trying to solve is code P0507. It is for "idle control speed too high". In most cases this means vacuum leak. The PCM is calling for a certain idle speed and is getting something higher than it. My problem is that i do not have the VSS hooked up, sow i believe that when the TPS is at 0% and the engine is unable to come down to idle (decel), it trips this code. I also get popping on decel and note a fuel smell, so its not entering fuel cutoff on decel either. I know this has been talked about here, but i haven't found any specific talks about my particular setup. I dropped a note with Dakota Digital and they say SGI-5E is what i need. Can anyone here lend their knowledge on using one of their modules to convert the Jeep VSS to agree with the GM PCM? Curious what settings were used. If i find out first, i will be sure to post back.

Edit: after speaking with Dakota, Wayne, and doing some research, I believe i know how this is to be hooked up, which will be proved this weekend. The job that Dakota's module needs to take care of is adapting the Jeep VSS's square wave DC signal to the GM PCM A/C Sin signal that it is looking for. Wayne changed the Pulse Per Revolution in the PCM software to 3, which i believe agrees with my tires and gearing. Looking at DD SGI-5E instructions, i believe i fall under "application #2", and will be hooking it up as such. Will report back.
 

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Alright so i was able to get Dakota Digital SGI-5E hooked up yesterday and get it working. I reset the light for P0507 and it hasnt come back yet, but i only have two drive cycles on it so far, so we shall see.

On my 2002, there is a white/orange wire going to connector B (the middle one) at the Jeep ECU/BCM. Thats the speed signal from the Jeep VSS. I spliced into that for the "signal in" on the Dakota module. I then found the connector i tucked aside for what would attach to the GM VSS on the LS harness. Looking at the pinout from LT1swap, one wire is the "VSS High" and the other "VSS Low". I attached the "VSS High" to "Out 1" on the module for the "Calibrated AC output signal". Hooked up a fused power & ground and power it up. I then made sure it was setup as it should be for "application 2", so "L-L", which it was. I jacked the back end up in the air so i could get the tires spinning to verify functionality. Started the jeep and stuck it in gear. I verified VSS signal at the DD module looking at the blinking LED on the module's screen. With my scan tool i verified that the PCM was seeing vehicle speed, which it was, so we are good to go!! Like i said before, Wayne changed my VSS PPR to 3. The speed reading that shows on my scanner is close, but it seems to depart more from actual the faster i go. No matter to me, since i am only using it to give the PCM some sort of speed signal to kill P0507 and actually get it to cut fuel on decel. So far so good!! I think this is good info to have here as i did not come across it when reading all 264 pages!

EDIT: All is still well with the DD module. I am looking at going through the actual calibration soon. Since the speedo and what the PCM are seeing doesnt actually match, my top speed is somewhere around 84mph (probably as fast as it should be going anyhow!). The PCM speed limiter is set to 97mph or so, so the DD module needs to be calibrated to get these to match.
 

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@AHenry014

What GM ECU are you using?

I'm going to be dealing with this same thing in the not too distant future, but with an E38 ECU, 3ppr VSS in the TC rear output and the same DD module.
 

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I am running an 05 PCM from a Blue/Green DBC van. Earlier style to the E38 PCM. Not sure if there is a difference between them.

EDIT: Shoot Dakota Digital an email. They got back to me quickly when i asked if SGI-5E was going to work for my setup. Also, got another days worth of driving on it. Two/three drive cycles and still no light.
 

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Working on a YJ swap.....5.3 with a SM465. Have a used 1721 cam from a '02 Camaro (201/196, 467/479 lift, 116 LSA) sitting around that I was considering putting in as an upgrade over the stock cam. Build is basically for the street. While the 1721 cam is a decent upgrade for a car.....wondering if it is worth the effort for a Jeep. Thoughts?
 
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