Pirate 4x4 banner

6721 - 6740 of 6843 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
These are the two radiator hoses the worked great for my setup with a bit of shortening.

Radiator Hose, Lower(Short S Shape) - Gates 23037 - 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee/Commander with V8
Radiator Hose, Upper(Large L Shape) - Gates 22356 - 2000 Chevrolet S10 L4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Since I am required to have emissions here, I am looking for advice on utilizing the Jeeps EVAP canister and tubing and adding only the GM components that are necessary. I am using an 01 5.3 and I'm thinking of just adding the fuel tank pressure sensor and the inline vent solenoid. Will the system work in that configuration? If not, what is the easiest way to set it up so that it is functional?

In regards to adding the tank pressure sensor, what is the easiest and most appropriate process for adding it?

I did search but didn't find the answers to these specific questions.

I appreciate your insight!
Tank pressure sensor I have done two things, drilled a hole in the top of the tank, put the sensor in and sealed it with a product called "Seal All", That was with the Stock TJ tank, I just switched to the genright tank and drilled a hole and put it in the top part of the fuel sender assembly. Both have worked fine. As far as the emissions go, you have to run all 4 O2 sensors with a cat, and then use all of the GM evap stuff. Plumb it all correctly and it will pass. I just had mine done through MD emissions which is a plug into the ECM while its running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Thank you for the reply.

I am going to install them by tapping into the purge line near the tank. I don’t think there should be a problem and I don’t need to drill holes in the tank or sender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
119 Posts
Thank you for the reply.

I am going to install them by tapping into the purge line near the tank. I don’t think there should be a problem and I don’t need to drill holes in the tank or sender.
I actually have my old tank with the sensor in it all sealed up, that I would sell and ship to you if you wanted. Its a 97-02 tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
Which fuel line fitting are you guys using when connecting the line to the 05-06 TJ fuel pump? I’m installing 3/8 braided line and the fitting I’m trying to use is a Performance World -6AN to Female 3/8” EFI part number 640853.

It looks like it should push right onto the TJ fuel pump outlet but when I attempt to install it, it pushes on right up until it hits to O-ring seals. I’ve tried greasing the O-rings but it doesn’t help.
I measured the fitting against the FP output and the fitting is about .005 larger diameter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
678 Posts
I picked up one of these badass compressors today and I'm looking for ideas where to put it. Anybody else have one in the engine compartment with a LS? I'm thinking right above the intake is my only option......

How about slapping it in that big open space in the bottom right of the pic. Right on the inner fender well.

Intake is already sucking enough heat from the engine, why put something else that generates heat right next to it.
 

·
Dinkerdoodledoo
Joined
·
9,733 Posts
I did an L33 and 4L60E with a D300 into my YJ.

Originally used a Dakota Digital 8K pulse VSS onto the D300... and it sucks.

I used a 27 spline input into the D300 and a factory NP208 adapter with a clocking ring.

Anyone used one of these kits in a factory trans?

https://jagsthatrun.com/products/parts-for-4l60-e-reluctor-ring-relocation

https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716073e--4l60e--vss-40-pulse-kit-for-stock-gm-output-shaft/

I'd really like to get more consistent shifts by getting rid of the 8K pulse conversion for the VSS.

I'd use the Dakaota Digital sender to feed the factory YJ speedo.

Am I over thinking this?

Any tips for a VSS in the trans tail housing?

I really don't want to have to redo t-case mounts or driveshafts.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
678 Posts
I have a really basic question. Installing a LS3 with the E38. Does the E38 need to be grounded in it's mounting? Was thinking about mounting it on some rubber isolaters just to cut down on the vibes it will see. That's when I thought it might need to be grounded through it's mounting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
I had the jeep out for the weekend. Towed through a torrential down pour. When i went to start it up it didn't want to light. It finally did with a miss. No check engine lights and it got better as the weekend went on with some portions having no miss at all.

This all kinda started one night when I pulled some McGuyver shit in my barn. Buddy's o-rings on his expeditions fuel injector shit the bed. I pulled my fuel rail and stone one off my motor. Best part on his ford is my chevy o ring. Well when i finally got it back together a couple months later it had an immediate miss. I worked with the FI connection and it cleaned up or so I thought. Well it has come back with a vengeance.

Originally i was thinking the ECM got wet, or something else got wet, but i've never had a problem with water. Now i'm thinking the injector is plugged or partially plugged or ? If anyone has any thoughts let me know.

ITS NOT THROWING ANY CODES
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
314 Posts
I have a really basic question. Installing a LS3 with the E38. Does the E38 need to be grounded in it's mounting? Was thinking about mounting it on some rubber isolaters just to cut down on the vibes it will see. That's when I thought it might need to be grounded through it's mounting.
I have an E38 with an LS3 and mine isn't grounded. The harness is, but not the ECU itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,062 Posts
I had the jeep out for the weekend. Towed through a torrential down pour. When i went to start it up it didn't want to light. It finally did with a miss. No check engine lights and it got better as the weekend went on with some portions having no miss at all.

This all kinda started one night when I pulled some McGuyver shit in my barn. Buddy's o-rings on his expeditions fuel injector shit the bed. I pulled my fuel rail and stone one off my motor. Best part on his ford is my chevy o ring. Well when i finally got it back together a couple months later it had an immediate miss. I worked with the FI connection and it cleaned up or so I thought. Well it has come back with a vengeance.

Originally i was thinking the ECM got wet, or something else got wet, but i've never had a problem with water. Now i'm thinking the injector is plugged or partially plugged or ? If anyone has any thoughts let me know.


ITS NOT THROWING ANY CODES


For Anyone following, i replaced a few injectors and she seems to be running good again. I started pulling injector plugs one by one while running, waiting for a change in sound. I swapped a few coil packs around to ensure i was getting spark. The main culprit was a dirty injector on the bank i didn't remove to steal orings. Who would have thought.



EDIT: I threw a new set of plugs in, and it cleaned up like a brand new one. AS of not it is running great. NGK for the win.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Does anyone know of a good write up for the wire harness mods that need to be made to run a 5.3 in my TJ.

Also is the Novak radiator the best option, is there anything less
Expensive that can be used?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
I dont know of any specific write up unfortunately. Even if there is, the harness you need depends on your setup. I would spend a bit of time on LT1swap.com and this thread. Both should answer all your questions about your wiring harness needs. Guys like Wayne @ 150swaps sells premade stripped down engine harnesses for VERY affordable prices. That will save you hours. From there, what you need from the TJ harness is up to what functionality you want to retain. For me, i wanted to keep the PCM/BCM for the most part to reuse the factory gauges. I removed the TJ harness and stripped all the engine wiring out of it, save for a new sensors i wanted to adapt onto the LS (oil pressure, coolant temp). I also kept the cam and crank sensor wiring around so i could utilize the Novak module so retain the factory tach. I also left the gas tank wiring, the trans wiring, etc. I combined my stripped LS harness and the TJ harness, made my own fuse boxes for the engine side of things and added two relays for the LS PCM and fuel pump. It takes a lot of research and planning to decide which way you want to go, but starting from an already stripped harness is a very good place to start.

I used a TJ V8 swap radiator from eBay. It works sweet and was like 100 bucks.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
11,806 Posts
Guys like Wayne @ 150swaps sells premade stripped down engine harnesses for VERY affordable prices. That will save you hours.
Thanks for the plug :) They are pretty sexy, if I do say so myself!
 

Attachments

6721 - 6740 of 6843 Posts
Top