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Fuel system LS conversion. I looked around and I saw what was available for my jeep and LS conversion and none I was that happy with. I have a company that makes a lot of parts and I decided to contact my suppliers and see if i could sort something out. I asked them to make a replacement regulator as on top of the tj fuel tank that is 4bar not 3.5 bar (56 psi not 49 psi for you backward people haha) anyway they came back with yes we can do some but you must buy 100 so Im ordering them now. This is simple as dropping your tank pulling out the old reg and pushing the new one on. I have listed them on my site and when they are gone its all over. The Price is $80 and that includes world wide shipping.
https://www.waxracingproducts.com/products/tj-wrangler-4-bar-fuel-regulator
 

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I tried the tachometer trick on a 99 TJ.
2001 GMC 6.0L.
Seems to work perfectly.
I used HP Tuners to change the tach output. I didn't see any "pull-up/no pull-up" option.
Just changed the high and low resolution to 1. Spliced the 3 wires together as directed.....bingo!
Very thankful to the original author. All my factory guages work.
 

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I am actually leaving that shop behind! I just moved.

I have done 5,000 miles without trouble or a break down.(Other than running out of gas.) I kept the rear D44 with ARB locker and put in upgraded axle shafts. It has held up to me launching it on the street. The transfer case internals were upgraded as well.

I am working on the GMLAN CAN to Chrysler PCI code right now to keep my stock instrument cluster. https://twitter.com/Azxiana/status/1216124283832893448/photo/1
By the way, do you actually need the brake pedal position sensor?
 

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How far do I need to keep battery cables away from the ECU(E38)?

I have dual batteries in the rear of the Jeep. One for the engine, one for the chassis wiring. Both batteries run to a switch in the dash, then to the winch in front. I've tapped into the engine battery cable just before the switch for power to the starter. The ECU is inside the tub on the firewall.

As it sits right now, no battery cable is closer than a foot from the ECU. The switch is almost 2' away and the cables running to the winch go away from the ECU after the switch.

Do I need to worry about this?
 

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Tank pressure sensor I have done two things, drilled a hole in the top of the tank, put the sensor in and sealed it with a product called "Seal All", That was with the Stock TJ tank, I just switched to the genright tank and drilled a hole and put it in the top part of the fuel sender assembly. Both have worked fine. As far as the emissions go, you have to run all 4 O2 sensors with a cat, and then use all of the GM evap stuff. Plumb it all correctly and it will pass. I just had mine done through MD emissions which is a plug into the ECM while its running.
From what I understand, the fuel pressure sensor has to know the fuel tank level. Is this correct and if so, how did you tie into the fuel gauge?
 

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hey guys we have our new 4bar pressure regulator in stock now and are ready to ship. This converts your line pressure to 4 bar (58psi). You simply pull the clip and pull the old system out and push this one. Its as simple as replacing a fuel filter and your done. Free shipping world wide
waxracingproducts.com
 

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hey guys we have our new 4bar pressure regulator in stock now and are ready to ship. This converts your line pressure to 4 bar (58psi). You simply pull the clip and pull the old system out and push this one. Its as simple as replacing a fuel filter and your done. Free shipping world wide
waxracingproducts.com
got star?
 

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I miss spoke. The GM ECM has to know the fuel level in order to gauge what fuel pressure should trigger a EVAP purge cycle. From my understanding the GM ECM cannot read the signal from the Jeep fuel level sending unit.
 

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Whats everyones preference on exhaust manifold for clearing front upper link brackets?

My current plan is to run my SD60 w/ the artec truss in a 3 linked fashion. Haven't locked down which side yet...
 

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I keep getting a p0102 code, tried two different MAF sensors, harness was professionally done by Novak, Intake setup also from Novak and I’m pretty sure I have everything tightened. Any first diagnosis steps y’all recommend?
 

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I keep getting a p0102 code, tried two different MAF sensors, harness was professionally done by Novak, Intake setup also from Novak and I’m pretty sure I have everything tightened. Any first diagnosis steps y’all recommend?
Wired wrong, missing hot, missing ground. The computer is not seeing a signal...
 

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I got a quote to run new A/C lines for my TJ LS swap with a new drier and the system charged, the first quote was $650. Has anyone had these lines made and does that sound reasonable?
 
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