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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, this is a newbish question, when I had my blazer the 52 swap wasn't popular.

To give some info on my plans, I'm building a v3500 into a jack of all trades truck, so includes lots of highway miles for out of state trips. I'm planning on 40" radials and 4-5" of lift I hope. So since I need to find a set of 52's and I hear mixed opinions on road driving, should I just go for a 4" spring and use a zero rate to gain another inch and push the axle forward 1.5", or go for the 52's?
 

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I ride on 52s all day little soft but you get use to it I had 4'' springs. I'll ride 52s from now on. Maybe one day I'll link it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My yj is super soft leafs and leans a lot in turns. I'm kinda use to it, but I took a trip to WV and VA, the curvy mountian roads were a little nerve racking with the jeep leaning over.
 

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i put 4" 47s in a more forward than stock position and i am not sure how much different it is than stock but its the second most forward hole on my DIY4X abomb. used the shackle hanger moved forward also.
drivablility is much nicer with these than 52s and my axle is more forward than before with less spring hanging out front if you are doing a different front hanger design.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm really leaning towards regular lift springs, but if I scoot the axle forward 1.5" will that be enough to clear 40's without getting into the cab?
 

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I run 52s front and rear in my 98 Jimmy. Ive bastardized the packs to the desired stiffness and flexibility. If you want something that performs correctly and rides right, build a 52" pack. If you cant manage that, sure, buy some lift springs. You get what you get with lift springs.





 

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Discussion Starter #7
My biggest issue is time, if I want to get the truck done in a reasonable time I have to do things that don't require redoing.

I'm sure I could get the 52's to work, but I don't have them, so I have to look for a set and the only junk yard that's close rarely gets square Chevys. Even if I consider my time free, a set of used springs will cost me $70 from them, plus I need to move mounts or buy new mounts. This is why I'm leaning towards off the shelf springs with a zero rate or ez inch to stretch the front 1.5".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very true, I've priced them, for the cost of them I can get new tuff country springs at a few dollars more, or zone springs for less. Cheapest I found for new 52's was $300 shipped for the pair.
 

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Very true, I've priced them, for the cost of them I can get new tuff country springs at a few dollars more, or zone springs for less. Cheapest I found for new 52's was $300 shipped for the pair.
Tuff Country springs are the stiffest out there or at least close. If you get lift springs, go with rough country. Their spring packs have a much better spring rate for a lift spring that will actually work some.

I am also a fan of 52's. I vote this if you want it to ride and work like a leaf pack should.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Everything I've read has rough country as stiff and tuff country as soft.
 

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i put 4" 47s in a more forward than stock position and i am not sure how much different it is than stock but its the second most forward hole on my DIY4X abomb. used the shackle hanger moved forward also.
drivablility is much nicer with these than 52s and my axle is more forward than before with less spring hanging out front if you are doing a different front hanger design.
same here. I have run 47", 52", and 56" front springs on the same truck....the 52/56 springs are really soft and flex great...but prolly on the too soft side. The spring length starts to be an issue in the front and I have landed many a time on the rear portion of the spring. Overall i would build a hybrid 47" pack with some long leafs for flex...If i redid it...other than approach angle these flex right up there with the guys in coil/link rigs and a stupid stable.
 

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FWIW, I'm running these springs, minus the overload, under the front of my truck.

1969-1988 Chevy / GMC Blazer, Jimmy 4wd - Leaf Spring (Rear - 5/1 Leaves) - 22-403 | $109.95

They flex great and have enough leaves that it doesn't roll TOO bad on the highway. The ride quality is pretty well perfect, other than the bodyroll. It's no racecar, but it gets the job done. It rolls less than a buddy's 1994 K1500 that he SAS'ed with 4" lift 47" springs.

I know its not the same bodystyle but I've got these running the axle 3.5" forward of the stock axle centerline and the 37s have at least two inches before they'd hit the cab. Which is good, as I plan on 40s for my next tire. I'm sure on a 73-87, you've got even more room to play with.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok I might be back to the 52" bandwagon, but I have a question about it.

If what I've read is correct 52" springs are 5" longer than stock fronts, if I move the stock mount to the front that's 4", so that should stretch the wheelbase 1.5" give or take a little. Now what I really want to know is since the rear eye should be about an 1" farther back than stock, why do most people move the shackle hanger forward? It seems when they do this they need an extremely long shackle, which when it's laid down at a large angle tends to make the front want to shift side to side.

Why can't you leave the rear hanger in the stock location with a slightly longer shackle for the longer travel and leave it a little more vertical for less side shift? I know the front will need to be shimmed to correct the castor with the longer shackle.
 

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trklr did exactly what you describe. I believe they do that to keep it low and have some down travel. Atleast thats what I did with the 56's I used
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I considered alcan springs, but at this time I have a hard time spending that kind of money. It might be an option down the road after I've run the truck for awhile.
 
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