Pirate 4x4 banner

61 - 80 of 211 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
I found the issue--the Dorman 610-300 knurl works in the hub, but it needs to be ½" -1" below the head and these aren't, so I just have to find a stud that has the knurl in that location with a shoulder to fit chevy rotor....on the hunt...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
I have 2-3 options, thanks to chainsawron's link to that thread and doing a little searching---tomorrow I'll swing by Oreilly's return the ones and see if they have any of the the other options...may have to buy a drill bit though and drill out the hubs a little, but we shall see...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Hubs for 86-91 ford dana 60 kingpin axle take Dorman 610-278 wheel studs. They take a 9/16x18 lug nut. This is the same stud that Chevy uses on their 1986 K20 4x4 front axle that GubNi uses for his brake kit to change the ford brakes to chevy. This solved my issue after buying the wrong ones 3 times.

Hubs for 1979 Ford dana 60 kingpin axle take a different stud and nut and the ones I bought were Dorman 610-300 and uses a 9/16x18 lug nut and Raybestos 6058B and uses a ½x20 lug nut and NEITHER are CORRECT due to knurl location. You will want Dorman 610-279 and it uses the 1/2x20 lug nut.

My problem was that I thought I had 1979 hubs and that's what I had planned to use, but once I kept having issues I switched over to my 1988 hubs and I think all 4 hubs are 86-91 ford. I'll have to double triple check the hubs I thought were 1979 to see if in fact they are or aren't.

So when everyone says things are the same on all those Ford kingpin axles they really aren't when it comes to the hubs. And I think there's a bastard year or two in there also, like 1985 and ?? or. This will need further investigation with BillaVista's Dana 60 Bible. I did read it but there's very little info about wheel studs.

Of course it snowed today and is about 12* outside and I was only able to pick up 12 studs, so I ordered 4 more and will get them tomorrow and if I get lucky I can install the remaining studs, grease up the outer bearings and slam those hubs on. Then I can bolt on a wheel and check some clearances to figure out frame, steering box and track bar bracket locations. I will paint the brake calipers this weekend I think, but those aren't a major item to install yet, as I've got to gusset the frame and work on shock towers and a few other things before I concentrate on brakes.

So recapping buying GubNi's chevy brake kit for a ford front dana 60 king pin and not having any wheels studs caused me some fun and so now if anyone reads this they'll know what to buy to avoid my type of fun and be careful of knurl diameter and where the knurl is placed on the stud as it needs to be down away from the head about 1/2".
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
And what are the odds that one of your outer wheel bearings won't fit on your spindle?:mad3::mad3::mad3: Everything worked out on the passenger side and got a wheel on, but the drivers side is a no go, I'm one lucky guy....is it the spindle or bearing or both? 14 thousandths off, give or take a couple of thousandths....Plan is to clean the grease off the spindle and bearing use a magic marker and mark both and see if I have a high spot on the spindle and see if I can spend a few hundred hours buffing it out....what fun
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
Got it---I bought a new SKS bearing and it slipped on further than the Timken. I removed it and then marked it with a magic marked and slipped it back on and there were 3 high spots. Attacked it with the below stripper wheel a few times with marking it up each time and I won, so :flipoff2:take that spindle. Timken bearing slipped on as well as the SKS, so I used it. I have plenty of clearance for whatever steering box I use and lots of clearance for the tires to the frame. So now what shall I do next? Probably shock hoops, so I can get it off the jack stands and then the panhard(track) bar, front bumper and winch mount. Weather may kill me for a couple of days, since we have snow coming again and it's going to drop down to 4* tomorrow and 2* on Saturday, but we shall see.

The truck as it sits is really close to ride height in the front, but the rear isn't. I think it's about 5" to high, but I still have the bed, fuel tank and structural work to do, so until that's done I won't know the weight I'm dealing with to figure out the spring rates to get it sitting correctly.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
So last night the welder stopped working and the 8 ton HF ram isn't working correctly--spent hours last night trying to make one shock hoop and because I'm hard headed and figured that the ram was just giving me fits because I haven't used it for a few months and it's cold it would come back to life. And it did for awhile, which gave me false hope and kept my pitbull mentality (stupidity) in full force to win, but then it went back to me having to hit the air switch for each 1/100th of a millimeter movement of ram and then it got to a point where it wouldn't move the ram enough for me to continue to finish a 90* bend. :mad3::mad3:

Welder was working then I turned it off and then went back to turn it on and nothing. Checked breaker--it's good and I have power to it, but it won't come on.:mad3::mad3::mad3:

Geesh just when I thought I might get front shocks on, I get sucker punched with this crap. Oh well par for the course . Oh yea working outside when it's 8-10* is something I haven't experienced for awhile and man do the hands not like that. Maybe the welder didn't like it??

Maybe when I get in the garage later everything will work--yea wishful thinking. So it's either go buy another ram or tear the ram off and put on the manual parts(sounds stupid) or tear into the air motor thingy to see why it's not working, but then I'm sure I'll have to buy another ram in the end. For the welder, I'm not sure what to do there if it doesn't work, as it's the company's welder, so I'll have to take it in. Too boot my HF welder blows my breaker, so it's a paperweight. Good lord too much sobbing to hear, maybe it's time to start drinking early and turn on one of those TV shop shows and inflict pain on myself that way:shaking:.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
404 Posts
I'm not sure why, but I always enjoy your threads! Makes it seem like my stuff goes relatively smooth!
My air compressor is in a heated garage and I use the air in a not always heated garage. I don't have sophisticated air dryers or anything so sometimes I've plugs up the line or a tool. Maybe that's it?
My hands don't even work at those temperatures anymore, I don't know how you do it.
I've had my little Lincoln mug welder shut off on me before I guess from overheating. Gave up, went inside, slept, and the next day it worked perfectly. I thought maybe it was just a bad dream. Couldn't find any info, but it must have some overheating protection.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
I've got an electric heater that does ok, at least keeps the garage in the 40's when it's single digits or below 0 and I've had it running for a few days, so I don't think it's ice. My brother stopped by and we put our fingers over some of the exhaust holes and it would work to some degree and then it stopped. I went and bought another one and swapped it out. So that made short work of the other hoop. I'm taking the welder in as I too thought maybe it overheated, but yesterday it wouldn't turn on, so hopefully they'll just give us a new one. Always fun I'll have to decide if I want to tear into the old ram or see if I can buy a new air valve.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Front shock hoops and mounts burned in for the most part and we could set it down on the shock, but I want to get the panhard in, which means I need to get the tie rod in, but now comes steering box questions.

I know most people prefer a 4 bolt box and yes I can mount one inside the frame by adding another member from bumper to front crossmember to achieve a mounting surface. So we have the 3 bolt box off the 92 chevy k2500 that's an inside frame mount(leaning on this one), a 4 bolt box outside frame mount that came with the truck and another one that I can't recall what it is, but I think it's a 3 bolt outside frame mount that maybe came off a S10 Blazer. Which one would you use"?

Next how high or low to mount it? KEEP IT HIGH, so the pitman arm just clears the bottom of the frame which means an angled draglink or KEEP IT LOW to get almost a flat draglink. Pitman arms I have have about a 2-3" drop(forgot to get an exact measurement). I like the flat draglink, but it hangs low which looks like a rock magnet, which to me isn't good. Keeping it high means better protection, but we'll have to put a hole through the grill for the steering shaft, not the end of the world and helps with the shaft positioning and also will mean more clearance for the panhard mount. Guess I'll mount it high.

I asked this in quick questions but no one answered, so I'll just add it here and let everyone know what I did. What's the maximum distance you should have from the hole in the pitman arm when compared to the hole in the knuckle steering arm. In a perfect world I believe they'd align dead on, but in a world of coilovers, panhard mount, high steer and Willys this is not so easily obtained. If all works out I'll be a few inches forward. For math, let's say the hole for the drag link/tie rod in the knuckle steering arm is X inches forward of the center of the axle, but your pitman arm drag link hole needs to be Y inches forward of the center of the axle. What is the maximum Z dimension (Y-X=Z) that should not be exceeded. I've searched an come up empty handed. So I'll keep it as tight as possible and fill in the blanks later once we get it on the road and see what happens with the steering.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
Hey Chris, It took me a long time to get my drag link right, or close as possible. I would start with a mocked up drag link with heims and high misalignment spacers on both ends to find the max or sweet spot of the heims. If the heims are maxed out at full droop and full articulation you can drill your high steer and pitman arm at a few degrees to help with any binding. I had to put two washers on the top two bolts of my power steering gear box to get just a little more relief in the heims, then build the panhard bar to it. I have torn my panhard bar off twice at the frame, over engineer your frame panhard mount :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,171 Posts
Chris, great dedication to this build.

The box you describe is similar to mine. I wouldn't be as concerned with the 3 bolts as I would what's inside. It's limited as to what can be changed for feel. Personally I like a tighter feel as opposed to a cadillac feel. Since you are centrally located in the country with good access to wrecking yards I would look around for a Saginaw 808 box. Mine is out of a 70s caddy or the Durango.

"As is" the factory variable ratio on these is nicely setup can make uturns ect. There is no torsion bar inside to adj feel. If you run the p pump you can change the control valve however I preferred the stock over the higher flow.

On my third box decided to change things up a bit and went with a super duty ratio and wish I stayed with the original due to the turning radius suffering a bit. If your truck is mainly going to be used offroad I'd recommend a non variable 14:1 ratio.
 
61 - 80 of 211 Posts
Top