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Discussion Starter #141 (Edited)
Mini update--installed the front bump air bumps and have decided to redo the back of my frame/shock hoops with a big aggressive "C" notch that should mean clearance for larger meats in the future and will allow me to turn my coilovers around to get the hose pointing to the outside vs inside the bed which was going to take up bed space. I'll post some pics when I get more done. The frame between the C notch and tube shock hoop will be removed.

Feels good to get back on it, well until I started making 16 gussets and drilling 64 1.5" holes in said gussets for the frame alterations.

Still a long ways to go though and helping my brother on things will mean progress won't be fast, but at least I'm back on it....
 

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Discussion Starter #143
thanks for that info--I'll have to look into those even though I'm committed to this new design. I'll have another frame tie in that will run inside the lower frame rail and shocks so that I can mount my bump cans and add help to the ultra C notch!! The C notch will also help me with me attachment of the fenders that will need to be stretched and inside the bed wheel wells. Plus it's what I have available for material.
 

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Just keep at it til it's done and then start deciding what you're going to change first! That's how my projects go.

Do you have any future plans to make it back out West?
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Yea, it's nice to get back on it, although this part is like moving a few steps backwards, but right now I feel better about it. Still need to figure out how I'm going to do the cross members for the bed and air bump mounts and the fuel cell I keep staring at the truck to figure placement and I think I'll be staring for a bit longer, but I'm almost thinking it will go in the bed towards cab right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Oh I have a punch list I made like a year & half ago--over 100 items and I'm in the 80's now and I keep adding to it!!

frame mod & upper shock mounts mostly done, just need to cap some ends....next is trying to figure out how to build the bed support framing...
 

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Discussion Starter #150
The bumper has been removed along with the fuel tank skid that I had put in last year, because I was going to put the fuel tank back there, but I doubt that happens now. The back of the frame will be cut off and 2” x 4” x ¼” tube steel in it’s place is my thinking now, still need to give this some thought, and I may hack up the old bumper and incorporate the parts I want into the new set up. So if I can keep everything even with the bottom of frame I will have gained 8” of extra ground clearance at the bumper and shortened it about 10”-12”.

As for the bed right now (could change my mind after I look at it for awhile) I’m planning on notching it around the new frame configuration, building some wheel wells inside the tub. As for the fenders I’m not sure if I’ll build new(leaning this way) from 1 ¾” x .125 DOM tube and some steel plate or cut the old ones in ½, stretch them and add the DOM tube and maybe some steel plate covering them. I’m also thinking of sleeving the upper part of the bed sides with some DOM to give them some extra beef, but that will be down the road when I can give it some more thought and see if it makes sense. Still have to figure out if I’m putting a headache rack/roll bar in the bed or not.
 

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The bumper has been removed along with the fuel tank skid that I had put in last year, because I was going to put the fuel tank back there, but I doubt that happens now. The back of the frame will be cut off and 2” x 4” x ¼” tube steel in it’s place is my thinking now, still need to give this some thought, and I may hack up the old bumper and incorporate the parts I want into the new set up. So if I can keep everything even with the bottom of frame I will have gained 8” of extra ground clearance at the bumper and shortened it about 10”-12”.

As for the bed right now (could change my mind after I look at it for awhile) I’m planning on notching it around the new frame configuration, building some wheel wells inside the tub. As for the fenders I’m not sure if I’ll build new(leaning this way) from 1 ¾” x .125 DOM tube and some steel plate or cut the old ones in ½, stretch them and add the DOM tube and maybe some steel plate covering them. I’m also thinking of sleeving the upper part of the bed sides with some DOM to give them some extra beef, but that will be down the road when I can give it some more thought and see if it makes sense. Still have to figure out if I’m putting a headache rack/roll bar in the bed or not.
Chris,
glad to see you back at it,,, actually you never stop.. cool build, subscribed.
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Small amount of progress.. bumper is tacked on and I’m not sure the sides will remain or not— will make the decision once I get the bed on. My friend Dennis, from Kenya, is here visiting so I have some assistance. We are working toward the bed support & bumpstop structure and bed mods to get it set on there.

Sand dune Coon— thNks
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
set the bed on it for the first time in about 2 yrs, but it started to rain so it was done for the day---have to redo at least one mount on the passenger side and may redo 1 more on the passenger an 1 on the drivers side..but regardless nice to see it on there and now I can start to figure out how I want to finish it up.

I forgot it didn't have the W or Willys insignia on the tailgate, so that bummed me out. I'll be looking to do something to alter that down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
some more bed work...from notching the bed out I had to put back in the bed supports, so I cut the spot welds where the bed side was welded to the bottom support. Then a couple of small notches to allow the support to slide in and then welded the bed to the support. I'm not sure ifI'm using the old bed side for the wheel well or not. Also patched the bed and welded the bed seam up the middle as it was separating.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
been chugging along on exhaust when I can get time to work on the ol' gal. Had to massage the down pipe off the passenger side exhaust manifold to miss the upper 3 link at full stuff and then I had to order one of those 3 bolt flanges that allow you to clamp the down pipe to the exhaust manifold and that took me cancelling the order at O'Reillys and getting it from AutoZone. No biggie, but of course this weekend when I go to use it it's to small so out with the grinder to enlarge it to fit around the pipe and 4.5hrs later with the die grinder we achieved success. Exactly the amount of time I figured it would take. NOT!!!!! Crazy, crazy, crazy how long some things take.

Then next was to figure out a mount for the front driveshaft carrier bearing I will need to use and a removable cross-member for the skid plate. And it was 98* out with no breeze until the end of the day. Lord that was a fun day. Progress is slower than a two legged turtle. Oh well, if you want to play you have to pay one way or another.

Now to figure out what carrier bearing to use. Do I do like I did for my '48 and use a dodge 2500 rear driveshaft & carrier bearing or chev or ford and modify it, but that will mean a trip to pick and pull or order parts from one of the builders=mega$$$ or order stuff from like denny's driveshaft or such(less mega $$$)?? Decisions, decisions, decisions....
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Been slowly making the carrier bearing mount and skid plate mounts and skid plates--last one is on the paint pile. Received my Red Neck Ram kit from West Texas Offroad, so now I've got a few things to work on that are all #1's on the list!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Well I got off the couch(more like I've finally had some "me"
time and the weather is cooperating) and for the last week I've jumped back on the project. I mounted the Red Neck Ram, steering linkage to the steering box, winch mounting and a lot of staring!!

So a couple of things I'm fighting at the moment. One, it's best if one does the steering linkage to the steering box to check the swing rotation of the pitman arm using the steering wheel to turn the box!! I knew I had turned the input shaft to the steering box with some vice grips to check the swing and box center, and I did it more than once and on a few different days, but evidently I didn't get it turned all the way left and right or somehow I set the center wrong because for some reason I can make the box rotate more with the steering wheel now vs with the vice grips. This little malady came to light when when turning to the right the drivers side knuckle wouldn't hit the stop and when turning the left the passenger side would hit the stop. So now I'm in the throws of adjusting the tie rod, drag link, steering box center and probably having to cut off the tie rod ram mount and redoing it. Will keep you posted on what I finally figure out I did wrong.

Concerning the notching of the frame it's a matter of me not mounting the box low enough on the frame or you could add spacers to the frame to not have to notch. I didn't want to lower the box more originally and I couldn't use spacers or I'd get interference with the radiator, so it's just one of those things you have to do depending on where you want your box. Now with that being said I did think I was clear of the frame due to earlier attempts at rotating the pitman arm 20-30 times with the vice grips. I think earlier I mentioned I had to notch the front cross-member also, but this wasn't as bad as I didn't have anything connected steering wise to the box, but now it's all connected and it was a bit tricky to get the grinder in there to notch it, but I got it and now I have to plate it back together.

This has really made me appreciate full hydro set-up I had on my '48 willys, but I'll get it figured out and it's kind of an interesting puzzle on one hand, but still it would be nice to not have to undo a bunch of stuff!!

I will also probably have to do Ford Facists anti tie rod spin set up or something like it. I'll keep you posted on what I do.
 
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