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Discussion Starter · #121 · (Edited)
Things take twice as long to do. I mentor a a FIRST Robotics team for a local high school, so that takes most of my afternoon away so I just have a few hours during the week and the weekends.

I've bent the floor pans at the school and drilled a billion holes for spot welds. It's all made from 16g steel.



Still need to do the other side.



Prior to this the trans and tcase was installed. The hydraulic clutch all fit. I'm using the same internal slave as Meiser. I had to use 3' long feed and bleed lines. I hope I don't need longer!





The shifter is already bent to clear the dash, but it's so long that 1st and 2nd cause the shifter to run into the steering wheel. A little cut and rotate will take care of that. Or a smaller wheel...hmmm.

Next step is to make a temp mount for the driver seat to figure my preferred pedal position.

The new goal is to be done by March 4th for a local car show. It's a fairly big show for this corner of the Southwest.

Still trying to figure out what to do for a fuel tank. It needs to be bed mounted since I don't want to cure anymore crossmember from the rear of the frame. But I also need to fit a third seat location for my son. Does anyone have any suggestions?



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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
The red paint was my son's idea. I was looking to do something sand colored to see oil leaks easily but he wanted something more bold. Reds better the gold he also suggested!

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Discussion Starter · #123 · (Edited)
OPTION 1: One of the fuel tank options I've been looking at is buying one of these and adding a sump for the manual pump. Since it will be in the bed I could build his seat ahead of the tank and make a false floor to provide a barrier from and him.



This tank is 30"x17"x7" high. That gives me about 13" to fit his seat. Not sure if that's enough.

OPTION 2: I could also do the standard RCI tank which is 30"x9"x12" high. This would eat all the potential bed space.



Or option 3: Build a custom tank that takes up all the bed floor but is only a few inches tall and build a false floor.

All of these options are in the 15-17 gallon range.

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
So I've made the decision to use a ready made tank from RCI. Very much a compromise but a necessary one to keep the project moving in time for EJS.

Been working on the jeep every moment I have, slowly chipping away at the list.



Installed the pedal assembly from Speedway. It's all made from 1/4" so it's a heavy SOB. I used 1/8" plate to stiffen the firewall in this area. Really wish I had a plasma table.

After that, I got really tired of drilling holes in awkward positions, so I welded these clevis mounts from Ruff Stuff. Super beefy! I beveled the edges to be welded and burned them in. The only thing that would make these cooler would be to integrate a hook into them as well. Hmmm business idea?



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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Doing a little CAD today before the Super Bowl.



Took me forever to get to that point and realize that I wasn't going to get a multi-planar panel perfect at home with one piece. So I did two halves connected via a step.

Here's your previous attempt on the passenger side.


On the finished product is should have enough room for the tire. It will be close.



Hopefully get that done this week and have fuel parts ordered.

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Nice job, love watching your progress. :)

OPTION 1: One of the fuel tank options I've been looking at is buying one of these and adding a sump for the manual pump. Since it will be in the bed I could build his seat ahead of the tank and make a false floor to provide a barrier from and him.



This tank is 30"x17"x7" high. That gives me about 13" to fit his seat. Not sure if that's enough.

OPTION 2: I could also do the standard RCI tank which is 30"x9"x12" high. This would eat all the potential bed space.



Or option 3: Build a custom tank that takes up all the bed floor but is only a few inches tall and build a false floor.

All of these options are in the 15-17 gallon range.

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I'm looking at what to do regarding a fuel tank as well. I want to move it from under the front seat to under the tray (bed).



I believe that triangular piece to the back of the chassis (left of pic above) is to support the strain when towing or being towed...

I wonder if I can replace that triangular piece with something else, more low profile and flush with the bottom of the bed.
OR:
Remove it all together, box in the frame rails to resist force it would now be subject to under towing loads...
OR:
Make a fuel tank which fits around the triangular piece.

I'm ages away from making a decision on this, so time to think.

Did you consider placing the fuel tank under the bed, between frame rails?
 

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The triangle bracing in the back of the frame has been removed from many jeep. I personally removed the one on my current jeep and on my first jeep, which was my first ride ever.
A gas tank from an early 70's CJ5 will fit in there with it gone. The filler assembly goes just over the frame and the tank can be installed or removed with the body in place. The filler ends up just over the top of the taillight. I think it's a 15 gallon tank from a 71-75 CJ5. Three simple mounting tabs hold it in there, and with three mounts the frame can flex without flexing the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Nice job, love watching your progress. :)

I'm ages away from making a decision on this, so time to think.

Did you consider placing the fuel tank under the bed, between frame rails?
Thank you! It's not as quality as your rebuild and I'm a bit jealous of the LS1!

I did consider putting a tank back there, but there were quite a few cross-members added to my frame I would have to cut out. Also, I didn't want to pull the body off. I did all my work without doing so, and I decided if I pulled the body off, I should just build a new frame (my ultimate goal).

With all that said, since you have the frame free. I would cut out the K-member (as it's called) and box the rear frame horns. Then install a later CJ tank in the rear. The only issue with that is if you're moving the rear axle back. I believe this could cause issues at full bump with the differential housing hitting the tank. Also, that tank is only 15 gallons, so if you want more volume you may look at a custom tank and cutting through the floor as well to raise it up for clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
The triangle bracing in the back of the frame has been removed from many jeep. I personally removed the one on my current jeep and on my first jeep, which was my first ride ever.
A gas tank from an early 70's CJ5 will fit in there with it gone. The filler assembly goes just over the frame and the tank can be installed or removed with the body in place. The filler ends up just over the top of the taillight. I think it's a 15 gallon tank from a 71-75 CJ5. Three simple mounting tabs hold it in there, and with three mounts the frame can flex without flexing the tank.
You are correct sir! It's a good option if you're building a mild CJ. Honestly something I considered as well but the work required outweighed the cost in time for my current goals.
 

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My first CJ was a '69 with the tank under the seat. I know it's lazy as hell, but I loved being able to fill up without getting out. I wish my 79 was like that, but I'd still want the rear tank too. Dual tanks are cool, and give longer distances between fuel stops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
My first CJ was a '69 with the tank under the seat. I know it's lazy as hell, but I loved being able to fill up without getting out. I wish my 79 was like that, but I'd still want the rear tank too. Dual tanks are cool, and give longer distances between fuel stops.
I still have the stock tank, and how the seat will sit, I could still install that tank if I wanted to. Right now, it's not necessary, but I could. We'll see.
 

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Thank you! It's not as quality as your rebuild and I'm a bit jealous of the LS1!

I did consider putting a tank back there, but there were quite a few cross-members added to my frame I would have to cut out. Also, I didn't want to pull the body off. I did all my work without doing so, and I decided if I pulled the body off, I should just build a new frame (my ultimate goal).

With all that said, since you have the frame free. I would cut out the K-member (as it's called) and box the rear frame horns. Then install a later CJ tank in the rear. The only issue with that is if you're moving the rear axle back. I believe this could cause issues at full bump with the differential housing hitting the tank. Also, that tank is only 15 gallons, so if you want more volume you may look at a custom tank and cutting through the floor as well to raise it up for clearance.
Ha, Quality! You're too kind!

Thanks for the advice, I think I will remove the K-Member, box in the frame, and do a small body lift. I'll compare getting a stock tank V's having a custom one made. One of my old highschool mates runs his own Alloy and steel fabrication shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Took some time today to get the CAD work into metal work. I still have a lot of learning to do. Really wish I had a shear at home.





I almost have the driver side done. Just need to make one more piece and then I could finish welding. I dislike body work.

I did order a fuel tank and some fittings. Still need to order filters and a supplemental fuel pump.

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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
More and more spot welds. I dislike body work.





Actually I really dislike working on old body steel. It just evaporates as the arc strikes.

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
Starting to think about cage design. I did some really quick drawings using my tablet.





I prefer the fastback design but i worry about having enough protection for the third passenger aka my son. The sketch looks like there is but I'm not sure.

Thoughts?

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What is your welder setup?
Are you cleaning both sides of the old metal?

Just working off a few pics. I would try and move around a little more. Tack every 1" or so. Tack-Tack-Tack between the 1" tacks. Then move to another area to keep the heat from building up in one spot too much.

It looks like you tried to run a few continuous beads. For sheetmetal, especially old stuff, I have found that a no-no 99.9% of the time.

Overall though, it looks just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
What is your welder setup?
Are you cleaning both sides of the old metal?

Just working off a few pics. I would try and move around a little more. Tack every 1" or so. Tack-Tack-Tack between the 1" tacks. Then move to another area to keep the heat from building up in one spot too much.

It looks like you tried to run a few continuous beads. For sheetmetal, especially old stuff, I have found that a no-no 99.9% of the time.

Overall though, it looks just fine.
I have a Millermatic 185, set to 2 at a wire speed of 50 ipm.

The old metal was clean but the floor was the worst due to it being a seam and some areas including get clean enough of the rubber undercoat from the previous owner. That's where I had the most luck.

Yeah I should have moved a lot more but I was impatient. One the floor I moved the most since it was the worst. The rest wasn't that bad.

On the new steel I could get a few strings of welds going.

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