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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There are quite a few write ups on this conversion, but most have sub par fabrication and as far as I know we don't have one on pirate. So here goes.

Parts list:

6.0 intercooler (try to get the pass side boot with it, it has a step to it, I have read you can stretch a standard 3" boot over it, however)

99-03 7.3 pipes (try not to get the aluminum ones, I did without realizing it, we will see how it works out)

EARLY 99 "spyder" only early 99 will work, make sure it has 2 3/8" outlets where it feeds the intake plenums (I will post pics and more info on how to ID the early 99 vs late 99-03)

Step 1 clean that shit!

wash the truck as good as you can around where you will be working. Next unbolt the bumper, grill and the bottom front of each inner fender. Then wash it again, pop the hood and spray down in front of each battery. You will thank me later, I didn't do any of this and got a good amount of dirt dumped on me while taking everything apart.

Step 2 tear down

Take the batteries out along with the trays, again I didn't do this right away and it made it take much longer, then ended up doing it anyway. After that, start tearing the front end off, most of it is straight forward except for a few hidden bolts. There are 2 studs on the back of the blinker and marker light assembly took me a while to find them, you can see them in the pic.



Keep taking everything off, you don't have to pull the headlights off the huge plastic thing, just pull the whole deal off.



Pull of everything until you are right down to the a/c condenser. I took the pic at the wrong time. Still had to pull of the valence, and hood latch support. Unbolt the hood latch and set it in the empty battery space.



Step 3 beginning modification

Pull off the lower condenser mounts, hammer them flat, hold them up to the holes in the condenser so you can mark your hole. Drill the hole and cut of the excess, this will push the condenser back to give you more clearance.

Driver side was cake.



Pass side was just as easy, except the hard line coming out of the condenser was, ever so slightly, touching the core support. I didn't like that, so I hammered the lower mount back and bent the core support piece forward a little with a Cresent wrench.



Next flatten out the center support where it used bend around the condenser. Cut about a 1/2" off the bottom, right through the existing slot. Now you can use an angle grinder to extend the slot up wards to make up for taking the bend out. I think about a 1/4" is plenty.



Now you can throw the IC up there and mark for your holes. Line the very top of it up with bottom of the square ridge at the top of the core support. If your truck still has the weird rubber flap on the bottom it will hold it pretty close for you. If not I stole an idea from another write up and use 3/8 drive deep sockets between the frame and the lower IC mounts. Center the inlet and out let on the radiator and mark your holes, make them much bigger then the in/outlet to give the boots and clamps room.





Just to give you an idea of where they kinda need to be.


Step 4 CUT!

I ended up cutting a little more than what i marked, but I like to start small and work my way up so you don't end up with a big hole. I started with a cut off wheel, then a Sawzall, and then cleaned it up with this:



If I had to do it again, I would drill a bunch of ~5/16" holes, connect them with a Sawzall and then clean it up with the drum thing in the pic I posted. I forgot to take pics of the finished holes, that's about where I left off for the night. I'm trying to figure out how to mount the top 2 rubber bushings. I think most people just drill and bolt through the core support, but getting to the nuts on the back would be a huge pain in the ass. I think I am going to drill and tap a piece of 1/4th flat bar and weld it to the core support.

Since everyone likes pics, where I left off for the night

 

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blatant asshole
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i saw one of the links you posted in the "ford' thread.

stupid question, why the 6.0l cooler? wwhy not or whats different about a 98-03 7.3 cooler?
 

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i saw one of the links you posted in the "ford' thread.

stupid question, why the 6.0l cooler? wwhy not or whats different about a 98-03 7.3 cooler?

It is taller, thus more cooling capacity than the 7.3L. A lot of 7.3 super duty guys run the 6.0 as an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
It's also a 1/2 " thicker. Some super duty 7.3 guys claim 50-100* drop in egts over the factory unit. Plus there is a local guy that buys and sells super duty trucks and parts. So far I have gotten a B&W Gooseneck hitch for $90 and the IC for $100 :grinpimp:


By far the hardest part to find is the intake spyder. Even if you aren't planning on doing an intercooler soon, I would start looking as soon as you buy the truck. You can always just fab one up, but I got in a time crunch. Here is some ways to ID the E99 spyder.

2 3/8" out lets, later ones will be 3".



You will need to get the boots with it, or order some 2" - 2 3/8", later ones will have 3" straight boots.



The inlet where it hooks to the turbo is also smaller than the late 99-03



If you still have the Stock fuel bowl, you will have to get rid of the hose barbs and plug the hole for the sensor. I pulled out the barbs with a pair of vice grips then drilled and tapped them to 1/8" npt. The sensor hole was 3/8" npt.



Pic I found via Google images, early on top, late on the bottom. Another give away is the later trucks have an intake heater on the ends hot side.



Almost finished up the install today, worked on it allllll day. Definitely underestimated this job, I will try to post the rest soon
 

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It's also a 1/2 " thicker. Some super duty 7.3 guys claim 50-100* drop in egts over the factory unit. Plus there is a local guy that buys and sells super duty trucks and parts. So far I have gotten a B&W Gooseneck hitch for $90 and the IC for $100 :grinpimp:
The 6.0 cooler in my 01/7.3 dropped temps an easy 100*.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Added spyder info above.

Almost finished up the install today, worked on it allllll day. Definitely underestimated this job, I will try to post the rest soon
 

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Added spyder info above.

Almost finished up the install today, worked on it allllll day. Definitely underestimated this job, I will try to post the rest soon
I'm doing this mod as well but with the superduty intercooler. I have the saem spider, have the same measurements as you show abaove but I still feel like the part of the spider that connects to the turbo is larger then the turbo side. The Y-pipe flange fits over the turbo flange. Is that suppoesed to mech up like that?

I just found this today and saw your plugs, we did the exact same thing, plugs look the same too
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm doing this mod as well but with the superduty intercooler. I have the saem spider, have the same measurements as you show abaove but I still feel like the part of the spider that connects to the turbo is larger then the turbo side. The Y-pipe flange fits over the turbo flange. Is that suppoesed to mech up like that?

I just found this today and saw your plugs, we did the exact same thing, plugs look the same too
Dang it, I was hoping no one would bump this until I got a chance to finish it :flipoff2:

The day after I finished this we left for a week long trip to Idaho and Montana. As soon as I got back, work got crazy. I will try to finish the write up soon......


To answer your question, I'm not sure, iirc it's the same diameter, but the aluminum side is wider. So you will need the clamp from the superduty. Post a pic of it if you can.
 

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Another option are Bean's 3" intakes:



And the CFM SD carbon fiber intake spider, it worked well with my H2 turbo:

 

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Those intakes won't work with the stock OBS turbo.
 

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Those intakes won't work with the stock OBS turbo.
Didn't realize that. Actually, it looks like Bean's doesn't even make their own anymore (that's what mine are) but actually supply RiffRaff's now.

Buuut, if you up injectors at all, you are going to kill a stock turbo in short order. Then it just a matter of turbo style and I'll say one thing for the H2, it is 100x easier to remove than a stock turbo pedestal.
 

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Mine doesn't have the stock turbo either. It was just an FYI for the OP and anyone else considering the route mentioned.

You can come up with all kinds of reasons for upgrading the OBS trucks, and it's a slippery slope wanting to change one thing that affects a bunch of others. Ultimately it comes down to how easily one wants to part with their money.
 

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Preaching to the choir here, I sometimes wish I would have left it alone after the Banks Powerpack, but no, Hypermax injectors, turbo, dual HPOP's, fuel system, Swamps IDM, 6 page chip, gauges out the ass, 5" exhaust, coolant filter, BTS trans, and who knows how much other crap.
 

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I run the 6.0 intercooler in my Cummins obs F350, pretty happy with it, but a bit uncertain about having it in front of the condenser, I am getting high pressure spikes at idle. No room for aux fans, 105 ambient temp, my use requires lots of idle time keeping kids cool while I load and unload. Not going to be a problem for most of us, but something to keep in mind.
 

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I did one on my IDI Turbo...could post pics if people want.....super easy overall.
 

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I'm doing this mod as well but with the superduty intercooler. I have the saem spider, have the same measurements as you show abaove but I still feel like the part of the spider that connects to the turbo is larger then the turbo side. The Y-pipe flange fits over the turbo flange. Is that suppoesed to mech up like that?

I just found this today and saw your plugs, we did the exact same thing, plugs look the same too
I'll try to get a pic tonight.
 

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stupid ass question.

if you wind up getting the larger intake spider why cant you just get the matching intake plate to bolt on in place of the 2" stockers?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
stupid ass question.

if you wind up getting the larger intake spider why cant you just get the matching intake plate to bolt on in place of the 2" stockers?
It doesn't mate to the turbo, the up pipes and pedestal need to be swapped to swap the turbo. A lot of work, and from what I have read, not much of a gain.
 
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