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Brian Ellinger said:
Exactly. Last time we TORQUED JRT"s studs, was before Goldendale. Now 3 comps on them, and none have loosened AT ALL. ARP's of course. We torque these things to 110-120 ft/lbs.

6 studs, the answer,"why?" Id rather buy a winch and rope for the $$
you are lucky, i have the arp studs and broke those too
 

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Brian Ellinger said:
Exactly. Last time we TORQUED JRT"s studs, was before Goldendale. Now 3 comps on them, and none have loosened AT ALL. ARP's of course. We torque these things to 110-120 ft/lbs.

6 studs, the answer,"why?" Id rather buy a winch and rope for the $$

It probably helps I drive like a complete weenie. :p



i believe you but there has to be another reason why so many of us even with arp studs are still breaking studs
 

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a2b said:
20 bucks says they werent tight
Chances are you are right. And besides, you would think with so many people breaking the ARP's we'd be hearing about it alot more than we have been.

Ive been abusing my ARP's for the better part of 6 months now, i check them every other trail ride and have only had to tighten them up once. Thanks to these studs, i no longer see the need for the 6 stud knuckles.
 

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a2b said:
Hendo said:
i believe you but there has to be another reason why so many of us even with arp studs are still breaking studs
20 bucks says they werent tight
I have borken one. And yes, you're right a2b, they werent tight.... 3 of them backed off until they were half way out and then tore the remaining threads right out of the knuckle. The 4th stud sheared in half. I'm also running hydro assist, but I know itsa my fault for not checking them. Luckily the 3 studs that backed out are in good shape still, so I was able to order just one replacement.
 

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Brian Ellinger said:
Exactly. Last time we TORQUED JRT"s studs, was before Goldendale. Now 3 comps on them, and none have loosened AT ALL. ARP's of course. We torque these things to 110-120 ft/lbs.

...

Brian, I spoke to you on the phone earlier today about ordering one stud due to my broken one.

I really think you should include some instructions with the studs mentioning to torque them to 110-120ft/lbs. like I said I torqued mine to the factory spec (about 80ft/lb iirc) I think if I had of known this mine wouldn't have backed off & broken. Not that I'm blaming anyone, I know its my fault for not checking them as part of pre-trip inspection, but it would have been nice to know :)
 

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Big_Ern said:
I have borken one. And yes, you're right a2b, they werent tight.... 3 of them backed off until they were half way out and then tore the remaining threads right out of the knuckle. The 4th stud sheared in half. I'm also running hydro assist, but I know itsa my fault for not checking them. Luckily the 3 studs that backed out are in good shape still, so I was able to order just one replacement.

yep, i learned the hard way too
 

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In one of the other 5th stud threads Bobby states the measurement for the fifth stud hole "2 1/4" from the center"

This is a pic of the "sweet spot". In the middle of the two cast lines.




 

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x2 - good to know as i would drilled that hole anywhere on the knuckle and probably fuck it up
Well, I didn't fawk them up... I'm happy with how they turned out.

A little bit of tech - use a caliper bolt as the 5th stud. It's the perfect length, same size threads (and thread pitch) as the knuckle studs - so torque all 5 of them the same amount :smokin:

I put in new studs (OEM) for the other four and that's a 3/8 inch plate of steel being used. I used a 15\32" drill bit which was makes the caliper bolt a very tight fit. Initially was pissed about the bolt heads only fitting by grinding them down a bit but it worked out well because it won't turn and doesn't need tack welded.

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