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Discussion Starter #1
I started this thread over on ECJ5, but I wanted some Pirate feedback. ECJ5 is such a wealth of knowledge, but sometimes projects like this don't get too much feedback.

Hi gang!

I've been trying to get my thoughts straight on what to do with this silly Jeep that followed me home one day.



I just so happens to seem that I fell right smack in the middle of an early CJ5 haven. I haven't posted too much, but have been seeing some awesome projects right in my area of SoCal:)

I suppose a little intro about myself could help.... so I started with Suzuki Samurai's, about five of them to be more precise. Ranging from stockers to springovers with Toyota axles. My last project was gonna run a Tracker engine and auto tranny, doubled transfer cases, linked Dana 44's and coilovers..... never quite got it done though. Life moved me about some and now that I'm settled here, the wife said...... "let's get a Jeep!" No arguments from me. Three days later we own this thing.

It has alot going for it: excellent running 225 V6 with DUI Ignition and headers, recent rebuilt carb, SM420 tranny, Dana 18 Tcase, saginaw manual steering, decent cage, great tires and wheels, 4" lift, AA clutch linkage, solid body, super comfy retro seats:)



However as I started to really crawl around it and get to know its undercarriage I started to find the sketchiness. Leaking M/C, cross threaded castle nuts on all the tie rods, cracks in the frame, ugly repaired rear spring hanger (ripped off and booger welded and patched back on) very wierd cutout on the cowl (no JEEP badge left!!!) OH and my front driveshaft came up missing somehow on the tow ride home.... and my crossmember is now bent, wonder how that happened:(

So I do what I do best...... take the whole thing apart!

Plans are to keep the retro feel and driving experience. Very little bling will go into this little guy but lots of fabrication will happen.

Here goes:

Engine: clean it and maybe go with some inside the frame headers and upgraded alternator.

Axles: Narrowed Chevy front Dana 44, Widetrack width, Ford hubs and brakes (5x5.5 bolt pattern) Spring over, crossover steering. Rear will be Dana 44 (unknown source, CL find) offset to pass side, drum brakes, widetrack width, spring over, limited slip, 4.10 or 4.56 gears.

Suspension: Shackle reversal, spring over with stock YJ springs. Goal is to keep it as low as possible and use a flat or close to flat spring for smooth ride. Extend wheelbase about 4 inches front and back, More details on the keeping it low part later.

Drivetrain: Keep it as is and maybe find an overdrive one day, twin stick the D18, oh yeah and get a front driveshaft.

Frame: Box it and fix all the cracks, new fabricated trans crossmember, new front frame horns and new fabricated motor mounts (driver's side was cut for steering shaft) and some beefy slim bumpers.

Steering: Keep it manual..... maybe.

Brakes: Manual with upgraded dual M/C.

Body: minimal mods, but I'll have to radius out the rear wheel wells for the added wheel base (try to make it look stock, more on that later)

That's about it folks.

I just got my new reg for my new Millermatic 180 in the mail so if you'll excuse me I have some work to do.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well I promised some updates. I didn't get too much Jeep time today, but I did finish the new welder cart. I guess some pics of the current state the Jeep is in will help too.

I promise it's all there







And on to the fabrication, Up here is the new front frame horns. I used 2x3x.120 wall rectangle tubing. I still have to box the back and fish plate it.



And here is the section of frame I patched in where the rear spring hanger was ripped off. I will box in the entire length of the frame for rigidity as well.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I also have some stuff from the front axle.



Here's the pass side cut and the C pressed back on, the caster hasn't been set yet. I just wanted to see how it fits.

So here's the high tech measurements for cutting


 

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Discussion Starter #4
I started mocking up the front suspension and boxed in the engine area. I used 1/4" plate for this area as my engine mounts and shackle pivots will be tied in here and I wanted a little more strength. The rest of the frame will be 12 ga.

The leaf spring mounts are RUFFSTUFF pieces, very stout and great prices.



As it sits there will be 5 inches of stretch in the front wheelbase.

In keeping with my plan to stay as low as possible, I decided the spring hangars hung down too low. I can get another inch lower....



So lets cut them up.





 

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Discussion Starter #5
I added in the front crossmember/bumper and tacked up the new notched out spring hangars.





Next up is the shackle side. I'll get those cut in and tacked up today.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright here's the springs mounted so you can see how much closer they are to the frame.





Now I worked on getting the shackle pivot mounted. I used RUFFSTUFF's bushings, they are 2"x.25 wall tubing.



The guy I bought the YJ springs from threw in some lift shackles, they have to be 2 or 3 inch lift!





Yeah, that's not gonna work..... horrible angle and too long. Well the side plates are 3/8" at least. I cut them down re drilled the holes. Mounted up the springs and compressed them to check shackle angles. Looks good.



And now, back on the axle! Yay, visible progress.





Does anyone have an extra set of 4.10 gears laying around?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I've been busy on the Jeep, but not so good about pics and updates. I finished up the front shackles and welding up the bushings.





That pretty much wraps up the front suspension.

I still have to set the caster with the outer C's on the axle, but I want to wait to put the engine in to add weight, so it will be closer to ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Next I started working on the steering box mount. Originally i had planned to use the Saginaw manual box, so I worked up a three hole mount similar to one I seen in the tech section.







I headed to the junkyard the next day and happened to stumble across this gem.





So it was a three hole power Saginaw box and the pump was sitting right next to it. Same bolt pattern. Win in my book! The perks to mounting the box this way is it will be easily removed without damage to the front frame horn if necessary.





Spacers to follow....







I was unable to find the rear piece of the pump bracket, but hopefully it won't be too hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I finished boxing the frame all the way back..... what a pain in the butt!

The rear suspension was next. Once again the spring hangar hung down pretty low, so cut it up, again......



I decided to outboard the springs a little and get creative with the hangar. Basically I welded a 1/4" plate to the inside of the frame rails and cut the RUFFSTUFF hangar in half for the outside rail.








The outboard mount was reinforced and gusseted.








There we go, nice and tight:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For the rear I used the same bushing setup through the frame. I added some 1/4" angle iron to beef up the outside frame rail and add some surface area to weld the rear bumper to. The bushing lined up nicely through the angle iron too.







I rigged up some boomerang shackles for the rear, I might need to re build them though.... once it has some weight on it, they'll probalbly hit the rear bumper.







Since the hangers were mounted flush. I had to add spacers inside the shackles.





And this shows how the springs align with the frame.



Here is the finished (almost) rear product.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just a quick picture of my last project with my favorite helper.



So I took my cues from Pielut's build as far as the braking duties go. A master cylinder from a 1974 CJ5 was the missing piece. I fabricated the plate from 3/8" plate and braced it with 1/4" plate.







Little speed hole in there for fun :)

The only hiccup I had was since I boxed the frame I had to change the brake rod pivot to inline with the pedal. Go figure.....



Bolt shows the new pivot for the brake rod.





The clearance with the shackles is good.



Also welded on the plate for my AA chain chutch setup, and braced it a little.




I built a brace for the cutch pivot shaft from 1/4" plate as well.



I threw on the tires for S&G's... 22.5" under the frame, exactly the same as it was spring under! I'm happy so far!



Next up is the motor mount fab, anyone have am engine hoist they want to rent to me for a week or so?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the engine back in the frame, prior to pulling everything apart I built some bars to help locate the block back into the same place I pulled it from.









One thing I was worried about was clearance of the master cylinder, looks good to me.





The motor mounts are a mix of 5/16" and 1/4" plate. The bushings are the RUFFSTUFF pieces.





I built the passenger side welded in, but left the driver side off pending steering and ehaust routing to make sure everything fits. Packaging is gonna be tight in there.



 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used the hoist to get the SM420 back into place and was also worried about clearance with the clutch fork and master cylinder..... it fits, whew!









 

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Discussion Starter #14
Tossed the Dana 18 up in there to start the crossmember fabrication. I was hoping to have a flat"ish" belly, but not gonna happen. Once again packaging wins.

The brackets are mounted on some 1/4" angle to help spread the load across the frame rails.







The center transmission mount is an Energy suspension bushing.




The center plate of the crossmember is 3/8" plate.





Here's some more of the whole thing.





For the torsion mount I kept it simple with a threaded 3/8" plate, a 1/2" bolt sandwiches the transfercase with some old poly body mounts.



 

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Finally time to put the body back on. I had to mount up the steering to mock up the shaft and check clearance.....





It looks good, now I have an idea of how to finish the drivers side motor mount.

Here's the rear wheel well, cutting required.....



Starting to look like a jeep again :)

 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm digging this. Do you think the butt welds on the frame extensions are enough, or will you be plating these too?
Yeah I'll be fishplating and strapping the top and bottom. Once the rest of the Jeep is mocked up I have some more work on the frame.
 

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I laughed when I saw the chain drive pull type clutch mechanism. My brother and I were looking to do that same thing on his Studebaker truck with through floor pedals. He ended up just using an automatic though. Also, do you know what brand those springs are? I had set on my Jeep with that same yellow on black p/n sticker and always wondered who made em.
Travis..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I laughed when I saw the chain drive pull type clutch mechanism. My brother and I were looking to do that same thing on his Studebaker truck with through floor pedals. He ended up just using an automatic though. Also, do you know what brand those springs are? I had set on my Jeep with that same yellow on black p/n sticker and always wondered who made em.
Travis..
That chain clutch is pretty high tech.... It worked well before the tear down, so we'll keep it.

I don't know about the springs, got em off CL. They are supposed to be stock YJ front springs.
 
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