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I am very impressed with the degree of professional expertise I have seen on this board. I have posted this question on other boards and gotten garbage in return. Unlike my son Sixgun, I don't enjoy spending every spare moment soaked in brake fluid and oil anymore. I decide I was not mechanically inclined when I crashed my airplane on a hill top in Alaska. I had to rebuild the airplane engine on the spot to get enough power for my tailfeathers to clear the edge of the cliff I was jumping it off of. I had 2 critical looking parts left over that were suppose to be in the engine..I jumped it over the cliff anyway but decided no more mechancial work for me.

So I need to know how and where to get this stuff fixed.

I have a 67 f40 that I have put $14,000 into already. I have 2 major problems left I need to resolve: 1) It has the stopping power of a greased Iron Pig on a downhill slide. Brakes are inconsistent, slew from side to side, ect. What upgrades are available? 2) Windshield wipers suck. Can I refit a later model windshield on the 67 and plum for vacumn? If not, any suggestions?

thanks,

Ironwolf <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">
 

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assuming you have stock brakes, check jeffs write up on a mini truck disk brake swap in the technical dept. or check ih8mud.com

you should also be able to change the windshield frame out with the newer wipers.
 

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Depends on how you want to do it. If price is a big deal then the mini truck knuckle conversion is probably the best way to go. If not I would get the later disk brake setup and bolt the axle in. Replace all of the brake lines with new hard lines and swap the pinions on the third member. Then do the easy montecarlo rear disk brake setup.
And then either run a Toyota Mini booster (probably a lot easier)or a later LC booster and Master Cylinder.

As for the winshield I believe that they all bolted in the same. So all you would have to do is get a later windshield with the lower wiper system and away you go. Not too sure about the method of attaching it though (wether you have the little knobs or the latch to raise or lower your windshield.)
 

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I don't think you can do the mini truck disk swap on your front axle as it (I think) has the ball joint front axle instead of a berfild joint. The easiest is to swap in the later model fj40 front end and then also the master cylinder. as for the back I think you could bolt on later model backing plates to get two wheel cylinders per side. As stated by Mace you will have to upgrade the break lines to the 10mm stuff. This job will take alot a <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> before your done. Good luck.
 

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i have to agree with the other guys once again. you need discs! swapping in a later madel disc brake front is probably the easiest solution and does not require and mods other than some brake line work. judging by the amount of money already spent on the rig, you'd be willing and wanting to do this. it's the best and cleanest way to go!
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
if you want to get a little carried away you can put discs on the rear also. i have them on my rig but if you don't run 35's or bigger you really don't need them.
 

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67 Cruisers have Ball Joint type outer axle assemblies so a Mini truck outer swap won't work. There is at least 1 pitched brake end that is leaking (left rear I think) and I suspect that the Master Cylinder is shot. If you can wait till around X-mas I'll have a front and rear end for ya (minus the 3rd members) that we can put in over the 2 weeks of leave I'm going to take. Or I can get you a disc brake front end realtively cheap that we can plug into the front if ya want to go that route.....and a later model master cylinder. Gimme a call and let me know, I should have some idea about how to go about it because I'm doing the same thing to my rig right now, but with Chevy stuff. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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you guys are right <IMG SRC="smilies/emb.gif" border="0"> funny part about it is, I got my cousins 67 sittin next to my house that we did a mini disc set up on and I had to give him my spare front axle to use. the brake lines arent that bad though, they just take a little time. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Ironwolf:
<STRONG> I decided I was not mechanically inclined when I crashed my airplane on a hill top in Alaska. </STRONG>
I would believe that if you hadn't restored / built 2 aircraft (Aronica Champ, and a Cub)and restored an Austin Healy Sprite, not to mention that you maintained all of our equipment (airplanes,Snow machines,chainsaws,etc) 25 miles from the nearest roads on our Homestead in the bush of Alaska. You also built 2 houses by flying in all the wood / supplies in /on your Blanca Citabra (remember when those 4 x 8's came loose from your floats and wedged your rudder) I really don't think mechanical inclination is lacking here Pops, go get that Cruisers underside power washed and get to work!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 09-30-2001: Message edited by: Sixgun ]
 

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If you don't mind drilling the windshield, I just put the later model wiper (out of a 72) up against my driver side post hole, measured over and drilled a new hole for the second shaft. Then just the mounting sheet metal screws. really easy, and is actually easier than changing windshield frames, as you have latches for the hold down, not the screws. Make sure you get teh hardware for the arms, and the arms for the later model, s they are different than yours.
My wipers work great now, (you are right, the originals SUCKED- and were huge coin to replace, which I did first) If you realy want to get fancy, get the switch and windsheld wiring out of the donor truck, so you can run both speeds. I just wired mine to the higher one.

Not only do you have the monkey joint in the front axle, but the diff bolt diameter is slightly smaller than later trucks. Much easier to set up a mini disk swap into anouther axle, or buy the cruiser axle. i am in the middle of that right now. Do yourself a favor and get rid of those lines asap. Cutting and flaring one on the trail or the side of the road sucks, as they are not standard metric lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys,

Good solid information. Thanks also for those of you that send me emails offering parts. Sixgun was right...this is the best board out there.

Iron
 
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