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Discussion Starter #1
Stock steering setup with no pwr...
Besides going to saginaw pwr steering is there any way I can fix this... The thing is scarry going down the road (1/8 mile test run) Seems to want to wander on its own. Is there any way to tighten the amount of side to side play (steering wheel, left to right)in the 1st box closest to the firewall? I removed the plug on the side of the exhaust manifold and turned it all the way in, but it didn't seem to help. Any ideas? If you put your finger on the wheel and go, left to right there is probably about 3" of play both ways before the tires actually start to turn. Could someone meausure there tie rod from center end to center end. Mine looks off on the Pass side

Picture looking at the tires from the front of the fj... / |

At least this will get me close so I can get it to a place where they can check the alignment toe in. I assume this is not something I can do on my own. The way it is now, I wouldn't trust it going out of the driveway. Thanks for any help.
 

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sounds like typical 2box 5 tierod slop. i don't have my haynes manual handy but i am sure someone can lend some advise later. i for one think that you can have good steering with the stock set up. i had 33" tires on mine and had it adjusted properly and did not have any wondering problems. if you have longer shackles or different springs, you camber may be off so you will need to address this issue to. have a friend wiggle the steering wheel in the slack spot and walk around the front end and determine where the slack or most of it is. i would bet most is in the front box. you should rebuild the box and think about the tie rods too. check Cool Cruisers of Texas for some usually good prices.
 

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-first what year truck

second, four things you can do to fix the stock steering.

knuckle rebuild
tie rod kit (5 peice)
center arm kit
'2' cent fix on drag link (see trails circa 1998)
-then if 1973 and later flex plate slop column to box

To all-
POR special, I will ship a joint fuji tie rod set and center arm OH kit for $120. You must give me a week+ to get them in to ship out.
 

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A few thoughts:

tighten the center arm- your haynes manual can tell you how.

Liberally grease everything. Center Arm, drag link, tie rod ends.

Rebuild the drag link using the "two penny fix", or at least adjust the big screw at the end of the link to take up slop.
eyeball your tie rod to see if it is bent.

If you look in the haynes manual, it gives you the exact length that your tie rod needs to be.

All of these are basically free, and make a big difference. The 2 cent draglink fix is pretty easy and tightned mine up a lot before I went to power.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The year is a 69

All of the tie rod ends, joints look fine. It appears the problem is in between the steering wheel and the 1st steering box.

Like I said, if you go left to right it is about 3" of play before the arm on the 1st box starts to move. Any way to tighten this box up or does it need to be rebuilt, can it be rebuilt. Haynes manual didn't have much about this.

The shackels are stock length, but the springs are 4" under the axle.

Length of the tie rod, in the haynes? I did not see this, does anyone have it handy? How can I check the camber? Thanks.
 

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If your springs are 4' over stock, you need to shim it. check out downey toyota, they have the shims and longer spring pins that you will need. that will solve most of your wandering problem. you need to get a Haynes repair manual to check out that front box, you can get them at most auto parts stores.
 

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I agree, 4" spring under needs shims!

You have no flex plate-so dis that.

rebuilding that box (really any 40 series manual box unless DIY 1973 and later) is a waste of time. You have the 'harpoon' style one piece column and box which your only hope of keeping the stock system is finding a tight used box.

Shims, (and therefore U bolts),2 cent fix, take up slop in center arm-but really then new steering should be on the way. I am not a fan of pre 1973 steering (independant box/column)

Specter, Downey, MAF, should have the shims in stock. Napa etc should have spring pins locally
 

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Make sure to get the HD spring pins from Napa or a good spring shop- the pins that I was sold with my shims were trailmaster junk, and stripped before they were even tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What degree are the shims or Is there a part #?

Any idea on the length of my Tie rod from either end to end or center of the tie rod joint to center or the tie rod joint? Thanks.

Lee
 

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downey carries the 6degree ones, if you have 4 or more inches of lift you should use these. (4inch springs, ???inch shackles). I used them and the worked great and i think they came with the longer spring pins, don't quote me on it though. I don't have my downey catalog around but i think you can call them and ask.
 
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