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I'd think the 40 micron one would be a good pre-pump filter. It's pretty coarse, probably a real fine metal screen in it.

Just about guarantee the paper element one is gonna be something like 20 microns.

I use ford fuel filters, the ones with the 5/16" push type quick connects on either end. Always seem to have one laying around.
3/8" line will seal over the bump, and 1/4" goes on tight enough that you don't need a clamp.
 

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The size rating means the largest particle the filter will allow to pass - so a smaller number is more filtration, right? I could have sworn when I bought that paper style filter the rating was something huge like 250 microns or something.
Yes, smaller number, finer screen.

That'd be pretty odd, at that point I think they'd have to go to a plastic screen in there, as the paper fibers would need to be spaced too far apart to have any strength.

Eh, either way, important part is that you've got some sort of filter on there. You've got a carb, so it doesn't care so long as the big shit's screened out. Using it off road'll keep the fuel sloshing around enough that anything that accumulates in the float bowls will be stirred up and sent on its way. Just run the aluminum filter, put it before your pump. Less failure points.
 

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I wonder if there are any big diaphragm carbs easily available...
If they worked for fighter airplanes flipping around in the air and running upside down, I'd bet they'd be great for a truck.

Eh, probably cheaper to go EFI at that point though.
 

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I'm on a bit of an EFI kick. Reading up a lot on using the dirt simple GM TBI computers. Bought the junk to reprogram the EEPROMs.
Planning on a batch fire port injection setup (on a datsun A12).

Any way you go, you should know it inside and out if it is on your vehicle.
 

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- I have cruise control. And by that i mean that whatever RPM I cruise with the throttle sticks until I snap the gas. Sometimes snapping the gas works and sometimes it doesn't. Makes for a serious drive-ability concern. Ideas?

- My friend is a wiring wizard. In order to get my turn signals to work simultaneously with my brake lights, he rigged up a system of 2 relays paired with the brake light travel switch and my 3 position momentary switch to get the rear lights to work. Crazy smoke pusher. The side effect is that my running light ambers in the front now shine bright whenever I hit the brakes, lol.
Throttle cable would be my first guess, but then I remember that they don't have those on these. Check for a binding linkage.

For my brake light/turns I use a system of 4 big 50A surface mount diodes.
left turn wire --->|--- left turn bulb ----|<--- brake wire ---->|---- right turn bulb ----|<---- right turn wire
You could use one of those 4 wire trailer light converter boxes.
 

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Does anyone have recommendations on better solutions for these areas?
More breather area.
How big is the fresh air vent?
PCV only works at idle/low load, when you're flat out or engine braking (so basically the entire time you're beating on it) it isn't doing anything. All of the blowby has to find its way out the breather.
 
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