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Discussion Starter #1
My pinion seal is going in my rear axle and am planning on changing it. I am wondering if i need to replace the crush sleeve as well when i pull the seal or can I just take the flange off replace the seal and bolt it back together. Also what is the torque spec for the pinion nut. I left my manual at my parents house and they can't find anything in it <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Matt
 

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Matt I am not a pro at diffs but if you have a crush sleve I don't think you can just replace it with out re-setting the lash on the gears. If no one with more knoldge responds to this I would call a gear shop and check with them before you possibly cost your self more than expected. Good luck!
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Matt, In repsonse.. It is not manditory that you replace the sleeve, even though it is reccomended. The proper way to do this is to yank the axles, and get a needle type inch pounds torque wrench to measure bearing load. Then take it apart, change the seal, I would use a new nut, but you don't have to if you use some more loctite, and tighten the nut down until there is no pinion end-play, and the bearing preload is the same. If you want to be even more exact, you can pull the carrier, and measure bearing load of just the pinion. Or you can do it with the axles if you really want to...
 

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I would not worry about the crush sleeve, just replace the seal, and retorque the pinion nut to factory spec (180 ft lb on an 8.8, probly same for 7.5) and check that there is not excessive endplay. There will be some, but more than .050" (less than 1/16) is too much.
 

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They way I was told you can do this with crush sleeves is to mark the position of the nut and tighten it back to the same exact position. This should work fine.

Or you can do it right <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
 

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What Dan-H said is correct...just mark the nut and the pinion shaft and re-"clock" the nut back exactly where you found it. Don't mark yoke or flange, because you may not hit same set of splines. Set the parking brake really tight, and chock wheels both sides, and you probably won't need a special tool to hold the yoke or flange. Use strongest grade of locktight on the nut when you re-install.

If you do use a new crush sleeve, then you need an inch-pound torque wrench or weight on a lever trick to set the bearing pre-load, and that is tricky with the carrier still in, as you have only the backlash available to "feel" the preload. Also the pre-load spec is different for used and for new bearings..best to just re-clock the old nut.

The backlash and contact pattern are controlled by shims, and will not be effected by crush sleeve or pinon nut torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like i can do it with out much of a problem then. real quick though will having a lock right installed make the mark theory still work? Plan on doing friday night or saturday morning.

matt
 

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Lock tite shouldn't affect the torque. Its gonna be up over 150, maybe even 175.

locktite the nut, the threads and the washer.

Also, put some RTV sealant on the splines of the pinion so it won't leak through the center of the yoke.

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: Dan-H ]
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I already have the lock right installed. I was just making sure having in there wouldn't screw up retorqueing the pinion nut. I remember when i put it in think how big of PIA it looked to get the c clips out and don't want to have to mess with it.

Matt
 
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