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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1979 Ford RC d60 and will be ordering the avalanche double and single steer arms, with the double on the passenger side for hydro asist and the single on the drivers side.

So how long are these rod ends?

I was thinking the ES2027L and the ES2026R for the drag link.
Would these big taper, high miss alignment TRE's perform well for the tierod also?

Are they long? Are there shorter ones that would be better?

Any sugestions on my pitman arm? Its going on a Jeep cherokee XJ, I think Im currently using the ES375L & R 3/4-16 rod ends..I was thinking of drilling it out then use a tapered insert either weld in or not.

I DID A SEARCH.

And this is what I found

Thanks..


STEERING PARTS:

$7/ea 2x P/N:14026805 (left hand) left hand jam nuts 7/8-18 Chevy dealer
$7/ea 2x P/N: 14026806 (right hand) right hand jam nuts 7/8-18 Chevy dealer
$?? 1.5inX 250 DOM Tubing for inserts (9ft)
$50 1.25 x .219 DOM tubing material for taping (9 ft)
$50 P/N 2595A424 7/8-18 right hand TAP McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com)
$108 P/N 2595A999 7/8-18 left hand TAP (Special order) McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com)


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/8-18 TRE's:

ES437L- (0.594/0.703) has a stud length of 0.0.872. it is bent. 3.95" long.
ES454L- (0.612/0.703) stud length 0.728 straight - 4.0" long
ES380 L & R - (0.612/0.703) stud length 0.728. straight - 5.56" long.
ES113 L & R - (.760) big taper $50

ES2234R $23.99 driver side tie rod 7/8"-18
Application: 85 Blazer

ES2233L $25.99 pass side tie rod 7/8"-18 WITH HOLE FOR DRAG LINK, for T-geometry steering.
Application: 85 Blazer

ES2027L $18.99 high misalignment drag link end Passenger side 7/8"-18 threads, BIG taper
Application: ??

ES2026R $20.99 high misalignment drag link Pitman arm side end Are 7/8"-18 threads, BIG taper
Application: ??

ES2011R & L

ES2010R & L $40 each 7/8-18 right and left hand thread TRE
 

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When I get home I'll measure their lengths. I would just a pair of right hand thread ends for the drag link. You have less adjustability, but much simplier. There is a left hand thread end similar to the ES2026R without the hole for the steering stabilizer like the 2027L, I'll get the part number for that also if no one has posted by this evening.

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter #3
jeepboyben said:
When I get home I'll measure their lengths. I would just a pair of right hand thread ends for the drag link. You have less adjustability, but much simplier. There is a left hand thread end similar to the ES2026R without the hole for the steering stabilizer like the 2027L, I'll get the part number for that also if no one has posted by this evening.

Ben
I do not believe there is a ES2026L!


Maby Ill print out my list and ask to see them all!! the parts guy woud LOVE that!
:D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I called Avalanche to order my junk and they dont have any thing,

The guy says the Tapered high steer arms are custom, and they only deal with competion stuff with HEIM joints. "custom" at avalanche means life long lead time....

So they also no longer carry the 7/8in-18 threaded inserts, he said they only use the larger 3/4in-16 stuff for competitions?! WTF. 6/8 larger then 7/8, sure thing cheif...

No luck on the jam nuts...maby the cheby dealer.. Ill try.

I ask if he carries the 1.5in DOM 250 walled and he asks how thick is it... he said they only use the 1-3/8 OD 1in ID tube thats 187.5 walled, A bit thinner, I dont think thats even a standard size... yea some guys have called asking for the 1.5in maby we should get some....ya think:eek:

There not getting my order! at least for now...Im shopping around.

Ill give rock stomper a call..



Avalanche Engineering:
 

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I have the tubing and taps (left & right) so if you can't find anything let me know and I can make them for you for a reasonable price. I also have the LH jam nuts.
If interested shoot me an email [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sent you a Email EBsteve...

Jsut got off the phone with Scott at Rock stomper, thanks,
Very helpfull.

He confirmed the ES2027L and ES2026R are GREAT for the drag link, but are 7in long or so, so they would be non-ideal for the tierod cuase they woudl bend much easier then the 1.5in 250 tube...

he reccomended the ES2010L and ES2034R for the tierod and only use the 2027 and 2026 if I need to preven binding.

sounds like Ive decided on the 2027 and 26 for the drag link and the different taper Es2010L and ES2234R for the tierod.

Scott can make the double High steer arm to what I need and does not use weld in insert! like avalanche does...But scotts are $175 each not $150 each like Avalanche advertises. And avalanche's comes with caps!

Scotts arms require the sheetmetal king pin caps that My 79 d60 didnt come with.. BillaVista d60 page shows Ill need two of each:
620132 Upper kingpin cap washer,
GM part no. 0047-1750 Upper kingpin cover
37307 Upper kingpin cap gasket

Parts mike sells them in his kit, Kit for both knuckles $89.95
No thanks My bushings and all are in good shape... All i need are the sheet metal caps!

GM part no. 0047-1750 Upper kingpin cover (http://www.differentials.com)
$9.83 Chris ext. 110 (03/12/03)

So the rock stompers will cost me $40 more then the avalanche! tough choice. Im CHEEP! probibly worth the extra cost..

Ill do some more measurements tonight and probibly buy the rock stomper arms.


Im still deciding on taped or welded inserts for the tie rod and drag links....

Weld in is so much easier...I can make it the day the axle goes in and wont have to guess how long a drag link Ill need ahead of time..


Rock stomper:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
BRUISER-42 said:
www.PoisonSpyderCustoms.com

Hey Ashman, all the parts your looking for that used to be distributed by avalanche are and were manufactured by Spyder customs ;) .
COOL good to know, but too late, I already ordered.

I ordered the Steering arms from scott at rockstomper.

EBsteve is making me the tierod and drag links, for less then I could do it my self or have it done locally.

I expect to get it in late this week.

I need brake lines and a drive shaft and Im set!

:D
 

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ashmanjeepXJ said:

Parts mike sells them in his kit, Kit for both knuckles $89.95
No thanks My bushings and all are in good shape... All i need are the sheet metal caps!


PM is a very cool guy and will sell ya just the caps, just call him and ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Old Scout said:


PM is a very cool guy and will sell ya just the caps, just call him and ask.
I ordered them for about $10 each on friday, probibly could have found them cheeper but Im tired of researching parts and waiting at parts counters... easy..

GM part no. 0047-1750 Upper kingpin cover (http://www.differentials.com)
$9.83 Chris ext. 110 (03/12/03)

brake lines?

I do need some of the braded brake lines to put these on the cherokee....

I remember asking bigdude.. but dont remember where.. Ill send some PMs.
 

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ashmanjeepXJ said:

brake lines?

I do need some of the braded brake lines to put these on the cherokee....

How long and AN3 or AN4?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Old Scout said:


How long and AN3 or AN4?
Ill have to measure!:D
It will be 8in taller then stock, so at least 10in longer then stock lines..


Whats AN3 and AN4? any pics of the different fittings...

Its a ford caliper, dual piston. was the same on my 76 2wd and on this 79 4wd.

I dont have any good pics of the calipers...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the Tierod and drag link that EBSteve mad for me, they came yesterday.

Steve charged me $140 for the DOM, turned down alittle and taped with right and lef 7/8-18 threads with some home made 7/8-18 leftie jam nuts.


Im kinda dissapointed on afew parts..
the right side of the tierod shodul ahve been threaded about 1.5in deeper. to have my tierod at 56.5in center to center the right TRE has about 1.5in of threads shoing and the left side is all the way in.

The right side wont go in any longer. its the ES2234R TRE, short but with alot of threads int eh tube.

It will work, but my 2234 will bend before the 2010 on the oterh side fully in..

I might just buy teh $25 RH Tap to fix it.. but its kinda diss apointing.

It still was a good deal and thanks for the help steve.

Sorry the box in the picture is not for the ES2234R rod end, woops.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The drag link is alittle better, the tapping is deep enough to get the 38.9in Ill need for the drag link ont eh cherokee with 8.5in lift, using a factory length drop pittman arm and a rock stomper highsteer arm, with the drag link tapered hole 6in from knuckle center.

I wish the drag link was a full inch longer to have less threads showign on thos 2026 and 2027 but its fully functional...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is the rightie, again I put the wrong box next to it for the pic, its not the ES2234R its a ES2026R.

I lost the jam nut some where in the garage, but I have it...

So what do you guys think?

should I even mess with adding taps to the tierod to make it centered?

That 2010 was special order $46 and the 2234 was at in stock at least $36 there kinda pricy next to the 2026 and 2027's in stock and around $20 each.

Thanks for the help..
 

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You have my email address and phone # obviously there is a problem please contact me so I can fix it or give you your money back.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #18
EBSTEVE said:
You have my email address and phone # obviously there is a problem please contact me so I can fix it or give you your money back.
Steve
I replied to the email.

you did good steve. I dotn want to get you all upset..

The tierod is functional as is, it was a tough job to make a tie rod and drag link to just dimensions given to you without actually having any of the rod ends or truck available for test fitting.

After posting my pics, if the guys think its worth fixing adding threads to the RH tie rod side, Ill just buy the $25 tap.

You made me a functional setup at a good price that no one else could match. It was a FAST turnaround time, and you had to take some lip from a guy at the shop but you got it done.

Steve, how deep did you go with the lathe? If I add more threads with my tap, if not turned down alittle, like you said the rod end will be really TIGHT! How tight, would it even be worth adding threads without the lathe?

Whats the easy fix?
 

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Sorry for the inconvienence. I obviously made a mistake (I am human :D ) I am glad that you are happy. I only wish it was not an issue but as forest gump once said "stuff happens"
 
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