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Discussion Starter #241
I've realized now that every system and feature on this truck is worn out or jacked up. Next on the list was the steering column. I figured the upper bearing was shot as the wheel was loose and wobbled around. Not going to work as a handle to climb in with. The wiring was hacked, and so on. Turns out the head wasn't bolted to the shaft at all, guess it was too difficult for the last guy to re-assemble. Bearing were OK, so I got it put back together and gave it some TLC.


Cleaned up the welds and painted. Shifter lockout works like it should. I had previously added back the NSS. Wheel itself needs some help.
 

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Discussion Starter #242
I decided to put some of the interior back in so I could make forward progress, before redoing the steering and track bar. Got a new firewall pad from repops. it fits OK and was cheap. Cut the existing flooring I installed a few year back to fit.


Of course most important aspect is the audio system, so got that back in after some repairs. TC shifter boot installed. The wiring is mostly original, but someone hacked up the fuse block so that is one of the next big projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #243 (Edited)
Spent a lot of hours re-doing the steering box mounting for the 80-97 style ford box I'm switching to. This allows a forward facing pitman arm for better fitment of everything. The 80-97 box has a much shorter sector shaft which places the whole box lower and moves sector/pitman arm towards the center. This shortens drag link and puts the input shaft close to the oil filter. To mitigate these issues I decided to recess the box into the frame like ford did on a stock frame. Could have just used spacers but I like to over complicate for marginal improvements. So I bent a hunk of 1/4x4 flat in the press.



Then I hacked up the previous attempt and grafted in the recess plate at an appropriate place and angle to get best fitment including the pitman arm to frame at full lock.


This placement put upper bolt above frame so I made some provisions


After lots of welding and grinding I ended up with this. I extended the forward section for aesthetics, and added another brace back to the engine cross member. I moved the track bar mount forward considerably so now the existing brace didn't connect to it. There is a lot of loading here so added some material and a vertical gusset


Track bar mount moved forward. You can see where it was next to coil over tower, which made the track bar hit the diff, regardless of bending. Of course the new holes are in the way. Now the bracket would hit the tie rod at full bump, so had to cut the lower hole off and make it a 2-holer


Rolled it outside to paint. Hot as [email protected]#$ so dry in a few minutes.


Looking sexy
 

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Discussion Starter #244 (Edited)
Got the steering shaft mocked up. Went with a collapsible type since the angles are low and shafts are lined up at my chest.

P/S hose will still work for new box. No need to hack up tower for shaft clearance with new box and mounting scheme.


Spent a fair amount of time locating the track bar bracket to make sure it wouldn't have other issues. At full bump in upper frame hole bar comes close to steering box nut. With frame bracket cut down it still comes really close to drag link when installed over the knuckle. I plan to use GM 1T TRE, with a y-link type on right side. This yields a similar horizontal distance for the drag link and track bar. To get same vertical offset I have 2 close options in track bar mount holes plus another on either side, so should be plenty of adjustability for bump steer. I was able to take most of the bend out of the existing track bar (was 27*, now 6*) and it works OK for now. I have parts to build another, it will need to be about 1" longer.
Should still get 12" of travel, I think the fenders will be the problem next.


Filled in the steering wheel cracks with epoxy and hit with some spray paint. Wiped paint off the rubber coating around the rim. Came out OK for minimal time and effort.


Cleaned up the bench seat and tightened up the drooping upholstery on the drivers side. Installed the seat to get it out of the way and keep grinder sparks off it.



Steering wheel finally connected to knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter #246
Fantastic work as always. Really enjoying this one.
Thanks man. slowly chipping away at all the things that need to happen before startup.
Hurt my back so instead of 'working on the truck', I have been doing some light mock-ups and slight modifications on various things.

Built throttle linkage. Used QA1 rod ends and a piece of SS threaded rod. Not complete or what I want but will work for now. A cable setup would be better. The pivot ratio isn't quite right, need to extend the upper bar to decrease pedal range and get pedal closer to floor for foot comfort. I had already cut the felt out below pedal to help the situation.
Need to add a throttle return spring anchor. Plan to redo the trans kick-down bracket to incorporate it, and move the cable over to line up better with throttle cam.


I made a proof-of-concept shift linkage setup. Since the transmission is out of a 78/79 Bronco, the gear select lever is 180* from the 72 2WD C6. So the '72 simple single rod linkage results in the gear pattern being backwards. I looked up the 79 linkage which consists of brackets on trans and frame, and a bar across that has a bell crank. This is to get linkage out of the way of the front driveshaft.
I simplified the system using a bell crank on trans only. Rod end connect to gear selector. I made an aluminum bushing on the lathe to adapt to the large hole that would have had a rubber bushing. The bell crank has a bronze sleeve and a bolt cut to length to bottom out in threads. I measured the relative lever throw distance and started with a 1:1 ratio on bell crank arms. The distance between gears on the column shift was a bit off so I drilled another hole to adjust ratio and it's pretty close. I shortened the factory link and bent it to not bind the rubber bushing at the column.
The setup works OK and will have to work for now. Most of the shift slop is gone now that shift collar is actually attached to column tube.
Would like to build a larger bell crank that will accept a 0.75 hole for a 0.5 ID bronze bushing. This way I can use a 3/8-16 x 1/2 shoulder bolt, which is a better solution than bottoming threads. Have some DOM to make the barrel out of. Also got another rod end, might replace the factory link and rubber bushing end.



Machined the steering column shaft to properly fit the Borgeson u-joint. Spun the shaft and used grinder like a lathe to cut the shaft down to spline minor diameter.

Decided to use braided soft AN3 brake lines for the master cylinder to distribution block. Used inverted flare to AN adapters and 90* hoses. For this to work well the distribution block needed to be rotated and flipped. The mount is swedge on, so I cut it off and welded it back on the other side. Still need to redo the hard lines.


After a long engineering analysis and a few setbacks I decided on a ignition system for the 466 Ford. Holley owns MSD and others, so they re-brand ignition amplifier boxes under many names. They sell the MSD 6Ax variants in other flavors. Distributor is a Ford Duraspart II custom curved by Scotty at PPAM, who ported the heads, for this motor combo. It uses an induction coil rotation sensor so I needed a box that accepts mag inputs, so I went with the MSD 6EFI. Aka 6AL but $75 less. Inside it is a 550 V step up power supply to drive the coil.


EFI ECUs can have electromagnetic interference issues from the noisy high voltage ignition system. So plan it to run coil on right fender and keep plug wires away from throttle body. Using cut to length wires, well, because I am particular. Need to get the inner fenders cut up to fit around the coil-over towers and installed before I can mount anything or run wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #249
Looking at radiator fan options. Considering a mechanical clutch type. Looks like ford/chevy use same stuff. Anyone have a particular setup that works well? CW rotation v belt.
 
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